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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through November 02, 2013 » Abnormal Idle Issue « Previous Next »

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Ekc3
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 12:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just bought a well taken care of 2008 Ulysses XT with 13,700 miles.

However I observed the following idle issue on a pre-buy test ride.
* Starts cold and goes into warm idle mode at 1400 in neutral with both the Clutch in and Clutch out
* Let it warm up and test drove for 5 min,

When I got back from test ride, in neutral again with clutch in it idles at 1100 as expected.
However, when I let the clutch out the idle raises to 1900.

After doing a TPS reset with both the bike cold and then again hot, it yielded the same results.

Called a regional dealer that hung with Buells to the end. A couple techs in the service department are still riding them (as well as couple guys in the sales end ) They didn't remember seeing this before and suggested to bring it in for diagnostics.

If the intake seal was bad, it shouldn't make a difference whether the clutch was in or out.

Before I take it in to the dealer, has anyone else run into a similar issue that they found a solution for this.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 05:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The 2008-up XB's raise the idle speed if they detect that the bike is in gear and the clutch is released. Apparently the idea behind this is to limit engine braking under deceleration. I had a related issue where my idle would stay high when the clutch was pulled in. My problem turned out to be a dirty/sticky switch at the clutch handle.

Is your neutral light coming on when the bike is in neutral? It sounds as if the ECM is not detecting that the bike is in neutral which is "fooling" it into increasing the idle when the clutch is let out.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 07:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cool feature, I had no idea the newer ones did that.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 08:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

^ Yea, it is. It makes a subtle but noticeable change when riding in the twisties. I had to re-adjust a bit when I went from the 2007 to the 2009 engine.
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Tootal
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good catch Hugh! I've got to start learning about the newer machines if my brother pulls the trigger on a 2009 he's looking at!
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Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think Froggy told me about it when I had the weird idle issue.
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 05:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

While the IAC can be manipulated to affect the engine braking, the primary reasons for it to raise the idle is to make it easier to pull away from a standing stop, and to make that transition smoother. The 08+ bikes keep the throttle bodies closed more than the older bikes when you are not giving it input, basically the IAC valve is the primary source of air during idle.
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Ekc3
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 08:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My welcome to the current technology in motorcycles. I haven't had a bike with EFI. Actually, I haven't had a bike in a loooong time.

Thanks Hugh. I haven't proved it, but believe you nailed....

I saw the neutral light out when I test rode the bike and the owner said " is it out again ? "

Now I have to sort out "how" to fix the neutral light. Short or bad switch...

Is there a download anywhere for the parts catalog and service manual or do I have to buy a hard copy.

Next obvious question is how do you find a list of what all interlocks does the ECM look at ?
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Ekc3
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 11:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Uploaded on Feb 13, 2012
What happens when you have a faulty neutral switch or faulty clutch switch. You can see the neutral
Light indicated however, the signal is strong enough for the light but too weak for the ECM to register.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwNHTecM0dw
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Ekc3
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

More Evidence the bike isn't SEEING neutral.
Bike has to have clutch in to start.
( See note from manual below )

So is it the "current not flowing" through the light ( bad bulb or connector) or the switch not making to send current to the bulb ?

From Manual...
Buell motorcycles feature a starter interlock. Before starting the engine, all the following conditions must be met.
•Engine OFF/RUN switch on right handlebar control group must be in the ON position.
•Clutch lever must be applied (pulled-in) before starting motorcycle in gear.
*** NOTE that it is not necessary to apply clutch lever before starting the vehicle in neutral.}
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 11:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Correct, you don't normally need to squeeze the clutch to start in Neutral, only in gear
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Ekc3
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2013 - 12:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

End of the day...

Will a "no neutral light" from a bad bulb or connector fake the bike into thinking it's in gear or only a bad switch ?

Trying to figure out where to start looking.
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Froggy
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2013 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is not the bulb, I would bet it is the switch.
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Arry
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2013 - 02:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The neutral switch is in a tight location (partially hidden by the counter shaft sprocket/pulley). Do a search on - neutral switch tool - to get some ideas for modifying a 5/8 socket or end wrench, to remove and install this switch.
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Ekc3
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2013 - 11:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thx Guys...

I noticed the links to the tool also suggested checking the connector at the switch.
(Not holding my breath, but worth checking since the original owner said it was intermittent)
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