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Wyocrawler
Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2013 - 10:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi all,I recently got an 06 uly with 28,000 miles in trade and am having some issues.
First the bike seems too have a low rpm stumble (under 2500 rpm or so) and surges when riding. This this sometimes will clear up as the bike warns up but not all the time.
Second after start up, maybe one or two minutes the bike dies, throws a check engine light and will not restart until the key is cycled off for about 30 seconds. Once the key is cycled the bike will start and run fine.
Third when starting out in first gear the bike will sometimes throw a check engine light briefly and then goes right out as throttle is applied.
This bike sat for at least a year before I got it. I have changed the oil( 20-50 synthetic), new plugs, cleaned the k&n air filter, put a new battery in it and given most everything a good once over. As far as mods it has a drummer exhaust and k&n filter. Everything else appears to be stock but I'm not sure PO didn't know anything about the bikes history.
I love this bike and want enjoy it for years to come any advice and help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Tuesday, October 15, 2013 - 11:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stumble at low RPM is sorta normal.
You need to have the ECM error codes read. I don't know what's causing that.
The second CE sounds like you have a stuck exhaust valve actuator. You can check this by removing the faux air cover and seeing if it cycles if you:
Crank the throttle wide open
Turn on the kill switch
Turn on the key. That will make it cycle.
Good luck, you've come to the right place.
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Wyocrawler
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The cable for the exhaust valve is not on the bike. I figured this was because of the aftermarket exhaust. Thoughts?
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Steveford
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 05:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No cable needed with a different exhaust.
You need to find out what code it's throwing.
Relocate the ECM as far away from the seat pan as possible and replace that throttle butterfly shaft.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 07:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The "engine dies until reboot" sounds like it could be the bank angle sensor.

In a gremlin hunt, the wire bundle that comes out of the flyscreen and down around the frame is prone to internal breakage. The copper breaks but he insulation stays, so it is an intermittent connection. Some years had problematic solder joints in there as well. So when you have some time it's good to take that bundle apart and run each wire through your fingers and feel for internal breaks, especially at that mileage.
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Buewulf
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 09:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I also have an '06.

1) It isn't very happy below 3000rpm, so I wouldn't worry much about the surging at that speed.

2) The cable would have been removed for your Drummer as Steveford said. However, the actuator may have been left in place so the bike doesn't throw an error code. So still perform the test proposed by Skisfast.

3) If the ECM is still in the factory location, relocate it immediately. It will get damaged if it hasn't already (which could cause some or all of the issues you currently have and much worse in the future.) I don't think that is the case though.

4) I agree with Reepicheep concerning the Bank Angle Sensor. It could be the sensor itself, a broken wire, or the ECM.

There are a couple of software applications that will allow you to easily run the trouble codes, disable that bank angle sensor to see if that cures your cut-off problem, and much more.
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Scottykrein
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 10:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When was the last TPS reset?
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Wyocrawler
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 10:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the info guys.
Where is the best place to relocate the ECM to?
As far as tps reset I have no idea on that or even were to begin.
BAS sounds like a very good place to start as it seems to cut out on inclines such as my driveway (last night) I really need to get the service manual. For right now, what's the location of the BAS?
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Wyocrawler
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 10:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The exhaust valve servo is still in place and appears to work as it should. 1 down.
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Tootal
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 12:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The 06 has a very tight wire holder where the wiring goes around the goose neck into the wind screen area. Remove this plastic holder as it's too stiff and can cause problems. I just used a couple of wire ties and loosely tied it allowing it to move around instead of being bent.

If you have a drummer exhaust and not an EBR ECM then you are running lean which is causing your stumbling. You need to call EBR and order their ECM for a drummer and install it. Otherwise you need to get a cable and download ECMSPY and modify your fueling maps to richen the lean areas. Don't do this if you're not experienced with tuning. Try finding someone in your area with experience if you go that route. You will need ECMSPY to do tps resets yourself. Do this with a hot engine. There is a lot of info here and at buelletinboard.com .

The BAS sensor was supposed to be moved to the rear of the storage area under the seat, back by the seat latch. If it's not there then take it to a dealer and have them do this recall.

Check the ground wire from the battery to the frame. The frame was powder coated and this needs to be sanded off for a better contact. Use dielectric grease so the aluminum doesn't corrode. Make sure your cables don't move when forced. There were issues with the screws being too long and bottoming out before the cables were tight enough. Put a flat washer under the screws and check them again.

The 06 does have some issues but once gone through they make a great machine. Once your issues are figured out you might want to install the "Comfort Kit" to help with the heat under the seat.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 02:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a factory retrofit for the ECM that puts a big plastic block to keep the seat off of it. A big step forward for sure, but not a perfect fix.

I kept that on there, and bent the ECM bracket to angle the cable connector more "down". Then I put a couple of slabs of sleeping pad foam on top of the ECM body to further keep the seat off those connectors. The problem isn't pressure on the ECM, it is pressure on the connectors. Seems to be working so far.

Others did a more radical relocation, there are pictures here somewhere.
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Wyocrawler
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 03:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks again guys.
The bas has been relocated to the rear. I am going to check the connections and grounds this evening.
How do I find out if my ECM is stock or after market? There is a bar code sticker on it I can't see any other markings.
I'm starting to think it is a bas based on the fact that the cut out issues seem to happen when the bike is facing downhill.
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 03:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

How do I find out if my ECM is stock or after market? There is a bar code sticker on it I can't see any other markings.




That is a stock ECM.

It is possible the previous owner made changes to the ECM using 3rd party software, unfortunately there is no easy way to know outside of asking.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 03:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The "dead until you reboot" is also a classic distinguishing failure mode for the BAS.

My Uly has done it 3 times (randomly) in 20k miles. My XB9SX did it twice in 35k miles.

It adds a little excitement to every ride, kinda like an inverse lotto. : )

I really should disable the stupid thing in the ECM. I am much less likely to be ground to hamburger by the rear wheel than I am to have it die while I am in the center lane of the interstate surrounded by trucks. The former never happened, the latter did twice. : (
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Wyocrawler
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 05:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok. Just pulled the bas off the bike. I'm guessing that it's not supposed to sound like a babies rattle. Am I right?
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Reepicheep
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 09:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually I think it is supposed to sound like that...
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Panhead_dan
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

you have to disable the bas in the ecm if you remove it. i think you should stop working on this bike. you don't have a shop manual or ecmspy. yer gonna mess it all up
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Wyocrawler
Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2013 - 11:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good advice Panhead. Gonna order the manual before I get in to deep. It's defenatly not as simple as the old iron I'm used to.
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Wyocrawler
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2013 - 08:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Panhead, just realized what you where saying. I wasn't taking the bas off the bike I was cleaning connections and just learning what went were. I'm a pretty decent mechanic just never messed with this much computer stuff before.
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Panhead_dan
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2013 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your excitement about this bike is showing (and thats a good thing). I and most others on here feel the same way. No one here wants you to get in too deep too quickly on this bike because its a great bike and its easy to "fix" it to death. These bikes are very sensitive to adjustments such as tires and tire pressure, suspension and electronics. Take your time and learn about the bike. Do get a manual ASAP. Learn about the options available for ecm/human interface. Its quite complex but still necessary. I dont understand it all but am able to do a tps reset, read and clear codes, check afr etc. Tuning changes are still something I'm not comfortable messing with but it is tuned from the factory so as long as no hardware is changed, no software needs changed. If there is a problem, it is hardware related. Fix the hardware, not the software.
Do clean all grounding points on the bike. They can be a source of all kinds of weird problems. Do something to prevent the seat from making contact with the ecm, especially the ecm connectors. Ride the piss out of it.

the bas has a little pendulum thingie inside. its a simple device and must be functional or the bike wont run. it can be disabled using software and then removed. its really not needed, you have a kill switch and a key switch...
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Wyocrawler
Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2013 - 01:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Panhead, yes I'm very excited about this bike. The only other bike that I've liked near as much as this one is the little honda shadow 600 I bought new in 97. First new one I ever had. That includes the big harleys and others I've had over the years. Fell in love the first time I saw the uly. As to fixing stuff to death, I have been guilty of that more than once. All the input for you guys is great. I did clean all the grounds I could find last night and am working on a guard for the ECM. I have a short seat coming so I'm waiting to fit the guard until it gets here. I also ordered a new BAS just to be sure. I plan on getting ECM spy in the future for the tps and codes. I'm not comfortable with tuning myself. Thanks again and keep the good info and tips coming.
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Wyocrawler
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2013 - 12:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok guys. Replaced the bas. Took care of the dyeing problem. Still surges under about 3000 or so, but as you said pretty normal. Only thing left is the occasional engine light coming on for a second very irregular.
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Shagg1970
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2013 - 10:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Still surges under about 3000 or so, but as you said pretty normal"
I would not consider this normal. I had been doing tps resets with hot engine as advised here and it was terrible especially after a cold start it would not idle and would die a couple of times after starting and run like crap, surge, and cough through the intake till it was completely warmed up then all was well. I finally did the tps reset cold following the service manual and it runs perfect. starts up cold and idles great, does cough or die any more and no surging at all. Try reseting the tps following the manual exactly and with a dead cold engine, you may be suprised.
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Shagg1970
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2013 - 10:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am in columbus ohio, and love working on these bikes if you ever need help.
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Shagg1970
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2013 - 10:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

oops. that is supposed to be "does not cough or die any more" not does.
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Wyocrawler
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2013 - 10:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey shagg don't have a manual yet and no clue on where to start for a tps reset. If you want to come over to zanesville and give me some pointers sometime I'll supply good beer. I would love to have someone that knows what they are doing show me the ins and outs of my bike.
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Wyocrawler
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2013 - 10:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

In other words, HELP! Lol
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Shagg1970
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2013 - 02:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I Saturday till 2:30 but may be able to come after that or Sunday. I will have to talk to the boss (wife) and see if she has any plans for me that I don't know about.

I will send you a pm with my phone number so you can text me your number and address.
I will let you tonight.
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Shagg1970
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2013 - 03:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pm sent
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Wyocrawler
Posted on Monday, October 28, 2013 - 03:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for coming out and giving me a hand shagg1970. Bike is running alot better. You da man.
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Shagg1970
Posted on Monday, October 28, 2013 - 05:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your welcome. Any time you need a hand I will be glad to help. Enjoy the ride...
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Bluzm2
Posted on Monday, October 28, 2013 - 09:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So,,, what all did you do?
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Wyocrawler
Posted on Monday, October 28, 2013 - 09:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tps reset and burned the ECM map for k&n filter and drummer exhaust.
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Shagg1970
Posted on Tuesday, October 29, 2013 - 08:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

He also had the vacuum cap missing from the port on the side of the throttle body that we discovered talking on the phone and he fixed that before I got there.
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