| Author | Message | ||
     Sludigoh |
Hello All! First post, but have been reading on here for a few months. I recently fulfilled a dream I've had for almost 20 years and bought my first bike. Wasn't planning on it now, but fell in love with a 2006 Ulysses when I was just browsing a used bike selection. I love it. I've ridden about 4,000 miles in the past 4 months and don't want to stop! But alas - here in Ohio, it's starting to get cooler and I'm thinking of mostly putting it away. So I have been researching and I'm planning on doing a Primary and Engine Oil Change (what is the difference between these two?) Is there anything else I should consider doing before only using it rarely during the winter (will hook it up to a trickle charger)? Next question - if that's OK - how do I know if I have the cooler comfort kit? The right side definitely gets hot if it's above 85 or so out when riding, and would like to cool it down if possible. Anything else I should check or research? Thanks for your help! Looking forward to joining into the community. Todd | ||
| Mnrider |
 You can see the comfort kit in this photo with the right side scoop and exhaust pipe shield. The Uly has separate engine and trans oils,I use HD formula+ in the trans and syn 3 or mobile 1 15-50 in the engine. | ||
| Sludigoh |
Wow - seeing that in the snow makes me really want to keep riding all winter. Need to get more / warmer gear and probably can't afford this year. so is the engine oil the one with the plug about directly below the oil check / dip stick? Where is the trans oil drained / filled at? Is that the one where you have to take the front cowl off and fill through the side case near the belt? Is the 15/50 because of the cold riding? I thought I had read 20/50? Thanks for the reply! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Hi Todd! Nice to see another local. Any full synthetic 20w50 oil for the motor (the drain and fill plug on the swingarm). I run Amsoil 20w50 for 3000 to 4000 mile intervals between changes, and I use car oil filters (cross references here on the site somewhere... I think its the same one that goes on a Toyota Tercel). Mobil 1 VTwin is likely about as good as the Amsoil. For the primary drive, the drain is on the bottom of the engine case. Since this is just transmission oil, you can run oil with anti-shearing additives that stand up great in a tranny but that would be a disaster if they were to get into the combustion chamber. The best choice for the transmission is the formula+. it is good synthetic oil, we know it will work with the clutch plates, and it won't dissolve the insulation on the stator. You can then run it for 10,000 miles. You can actually run the full synthetic 20w50 engine oil in the primary as well if you want, but it won't work quite as well or last quite as long as a true transmission oil. It's pretty close though, so if you are on the road or in a pinch or just want to have only one oil for both orifices it would work fine. The best solution for the hot thigh syndrome is a good set of armored riding pants, which you should really be wearing anyway. Especially riding in Springboro in a friday, where apparently all drivers loose all cognitive and spatial reasoning capabilities. DAMHIK. | ||
| Arry |
Congrats on fulfilling this dream. Sounds like you had a good summer (4k/4mo). You should get a service manual ($60?), but feel free to ask questions here too. The primary oil lubes the transmission, (wet) clutch, and primary chain & sprockets. The engine oil lubes the power producing components - crank, rods, cam, lifters, bearings,... Don't leave a trickle charger on more than 12 hours, or so. you can leave a battery tender on during storage, (because it's supposed to turn itself off and on, as needed. The comfort kit has an air scoop for the right side (stock only has left side scoop), and a piece (cowl) that goes over the rear shock (under the seat) to divert hot air away from the under seat area. Heat is still an issue, even with the kit, but it helps a lot. | ||
| Jessemc |
The only thing better than a Uly in the winter is probably a Ural, haha in the snow -  and on packed ice -  | ||
| Schwara |
The uly doesn't mind the winter one bit ... she might even like it better than the middle of summer. I've had mine a little over 2 years now and I ride her all year round. I will wimp out however if it is below freezing & there is precipitation present on the road. Otherwise, I'll keep riding ... I should also qualify that I never had a desire to do this before getting Penny. Listen to Reep, he's been riding Buells in this area for a while. I personally do Mobil 1 20w50 for the motor & Formula+ for the primary. I used to do Mobil 1 in both but had some clutch issues so I no longer want to risk it. I've heard nothing but good things about Formula+ even though it's an HD product. It's actually no more expensive than a decent 20w-50 syn so why bother & every HD shop in town keeps it in stock. I am pretty conservative with fluid changes so I change engine oil every 2.5K & the primary every 5K. I try to stay close to this in the summer but definitely no longer in the winter. You do not want moisture sitn in the oil (do a search on cream on BadWeb). Since operating temps will be lower you have to run it long enough to get everything nice and hot, that's what this bike was designed for. Have fun ... it's a beautiful day in Mason for a ride today. | ||
| Buewulf |
Winterize yourself instead! Invest in some heated clothing and keep piling the miles on! | ||
| Apeofthoth |
Will be up at Wright State on my Uly tomorrow! I've seen one other Uly (all black) near Springboro. Will keep an eye out for you! Stay safe and enjoy! | ||
| Reepicheep |
There was a 2010 Uly in Springboro, another guy that worked at Lexis with me. He unfortunately sold it before I could get my hands on it. Mine is yellow... its on the lift now chasing a rattle that may or may not be my imagination. I have to take the kids to school these days, so I don't ride as much. I miss the ride, but wouldn't trade that 15 minutes with the kids for anything. There will be plenty of time to ride when they have moved on to things that they don't need me for. Today was *especially* hard to get into a car, what great weather! I'll set you up with a heated grip controller when I finish rev 10 of the design... | ||
| Schwara |
I agree w Buewolf. It's not that hard to start winterizing a person. I'm a big fan of layers ... learned that mountain biking in the winter. Today as an example was no big deal at all even though it was 41 on my way into work ... jeans, thermal undies, normal work shirt, all weather jacket w all vents zipped shut, all weather gloves, & normal shoes. When it is getn closer to 30 then add outer pants Reep mentioned, liner under jacket, pull over neck warmer thing (name?), weather proof leather boots, & maybe even thicker "winter" riding gloves or possibly thin liner material gloves in addition to normal all weather gloves. I've gotten spoiled with the hand guards& heaters n the Uly & hardly ever even break out my winter riding gloves anymore. Basically you ride and whatever u notice is cold is what u focus on before the next ride. It really doesn't have to be that expensive. | ||
| Sludigoh |
Thanks for all the help... going to do the oil and primary this weekend, so I'll report how it goes. It did come with a Service Manual, just have to figure out how to read/use the thing. Think I'm going to ride into work tomorrow morning even though it's supposed to be 41 or so. Chickened out this morning and was mad all day. Ended up going for a 40 min ride in the evening just for fun. I live up in Troy and commute to Dayton (25 miles each way), so easy to pile on the miles. Need to get some warmer gloves and some outer pants (pain to have to change at work out of thermals.) Those are my two cold points. I have a TourMaster Draft Air 2 that has a nice liner - never really cold yet with that on (and a thick leather down filled jacket if it gets really cold.) You all may have inspired me to keep riding. I'll see how long I can make. Don't think I'll do snow yet - too green of a rider to trust that yet, but I love winter anyway, so riding sounds fantastic. I do have the air scoop on both sides, so previous owner probably did the comfort kit already... right side still gets hot (even did tonight with i being in the 60s) - I'm hoping it's just needing an oil / fluid change. The non-Buell/HD dealer I bought it from had it WAY overfilled when I bought it (spilling out on stand) - so I don't trust they really used the best stuff / did the maintenance right. (Message edited by SludigOH on October 09, 2013) | ||
| Sludigoh |
Oh yeah - here she is - with my VERY sad GTI who now has to live in the driveway. Also came with the hard saddle bags and back case(? not sure of the names)  | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thats an aftermarket windscreen as well. Look here for more options... the hands are going to be the first thing to go, so cartridge heaters and handguards go a LONG way to be able to keep riding... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/699678.html?1358188970  | ||
| Shagg1970 |
The right side frame/tank is going to get hot. I have the comfort kit, an adhesive thermal insulating layer stuck to the inside of the frame, and jet hot coated headers and mine still gets hot. Use it to regulate your body temp, if you are getting cold press your leg up against the frame, get too hot hang your knee out in the wind. Works like a charm. Its never been too hot even in 90+ temps. I personaly use Amsoil 20w50 v-twin in both holes and my transmission loves it, shifting is very smooth. Im in columbus if you need help with any thing. I have the factory service manual (for an 06) lots of tools, and ecm spy and cable, to do tps resets. | ||
| Mnrider |
Great looking bike Todd. Does your w/s have bolts holding it on in the bottom holes,if not you may want to go to a Buell dealer to get them. The w/s can fly off at high speeds. | ||
| Uly_man |
The bike is a solid build and does not need much "Winterizing" but like any bike a little helps keep it looking good. On my 06 Uly, once the bike is clean, I spray all the fasteners with something like ACF-50 and wipe off whats left. I also spray silicon fluid on a rag and wipe over everything but mainly the wheels as it makes them easier to clean again latter on. Do NOT use this on the seat, brake discs or foot pegs. Spray something like WD-40 around the plug caps to keep any damp out. Spray ACF-50 (or other) in the fuel cap key slot as water can get in and freeze it up in cold weather. Also do this in the triple tail parts as they dry out easy over time/weather. If you ride in the wet watch out for those "silver" pegs as they can be slippery and can catch you out. I have always used std oils, wide in all weathers and have no problems. | ||
| Uly_man |
"how do I know if I have the cooler comfort kit? The right side definitely gets hot if it's above 85 or so out when riding, and would like to cool it down if possible". It looks like you have something on the bike but what it should have is a plastic cover over the rear shock to direct the fans air flow from under the seat. They all feel hot at 85F plus as most of the heat is coming from the exhaust headers. Ceramic coating and/or wrap may help with this. You should not notice it moving and while standing just move your right leg/knee away from the bike. To be honest you get used to it but the rear header heat shield helps a lot and is easy to fit. | ||
| Etennuly |
Awesome bike, welcome to the forum. My chance to turn this into an oil thread  . If your engine, not the exhaust, is sounding like a bag of marbles in a dryer I recommend running a non syn oil, using the temperature chart in the owners manual or service manual. It really works. If your engine is happy and you are happy with syn oil.....it is your choice. I have one of those old fashion pumper squirt cans for oil. My used synthetic oil from my other vehicles goes in it for lubing general stuff on many things. One of these things is the clutch cable at the clutch handle. If it corrodes in it will bend the cable everytime you pull it in, not good. One of the often over looked things is the heim type joints that are all around the engine to support in in all of its vibrating glory. Just a little shot of oil and a wipe off will keep them moving and corrosion free. I do mine at every oil change. If your feet can reach the ground winter riding isn't too bad. Wouldn't want to be short legged on one side though.  | ||
| Buewulf |
Sludigoh, if you like that tall windsceen, bolt it down. I recently had mine fly off and test my helmet. Those little plastic fasteners won't last long at highway speeds. | ||
| Arry |
Sludigoh, check the Four black mounts on your windshield. I, also, have a tall windshield and the lower two mounts have socket (allen) head screws, that have nuts and washers on the inside (instead of the press in rubber mounts on the top two). This is because of increased wind force against the taller shield. I can't tell from your picture. Don't be mislead by pictures of Ulys in ice and snow. Freezing weather is OK if the pavement is dry, otherwise very hazardous. Even frost or sand on a corner could put you down, be careful! | ||
| Arcticktm |
Check out the new Uly owners thread (look near top of this board) for sure before you do anything else. In case you don't, do NOT use the torque specs in the SM for your oil drain bolts. If you do, you will likely strip them out at some point. I'd suggest <20 ft-lbs for them, maybe like 15-17. | ||
| Verdad |
Yeah, riding in the snow - while fun - isn't recommended. I just like the mountains....   Regarding the windscreen, I took my 08 to the dealer a while back for my 1000mi service, and they did the mod for me there. I don't think it was a "recall" per se, but I believe the company took responsibility for it. Not sure if they are still doing it, as Antelope Valley HD was still a /Buell dealer back then.... Cheers! | ||
| Redtail |
Etennuly What brand and weight non syn oil do you run in the motor? | ||
| Sludigoh |
All ready for tomorrow... here's to it going well.  | ||
| Sludigoh |
Went excellent today. I checked my windscreen while it was idling to warm up... nice bolts on the back all tight on the bottom ones. Then changed both Engine and Primary oil. Took about 1.5 hours with my 4 year old "helping" me. So I'll take that. Rode it for 10 mins or so, and I swear it feels like it finds neutral a lot easier now. Heres to hoping I didn't destroy anything. All in all a great day with my bike and my oldest. Thank you all for all your help and recommendations! | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you adjusted your primary properly...I'm sure it DOES find neutral more easily!  | ||
| Sludigoh |
I did not do any adjustments to the primary... just changed the fluid. Should I? I terrifies me to try things like that on my own. Todd | ||
| Arry |
Check your service manual, in the index, primary chain adjust. There's some info in there about rotating the engine and checking the chain in several positions, but, you can get a pretty good idea just checking it in one position. If it seem close to the spec (3/8-1/2 in.) play/slack it's probably good. If it seems loose adj it. It's a good thing to get accustom to checking it and the primary oil level occasionally and you'll get familiar with how it should feel. | ||
| Schwara |
If you search on YouTube there are a few different videos to give you an idea about what's involved with a clutch adjustment. Just search "Buell clutch". |
