| Author | Message | ||
     Sprintex |
This is the toughest tire I have ever wrestle with! Also %^$#*. Even with my Harbor Fright tire changer and mojo lever I can't get the second bead over. I'm having trouble keeping the tire from slipping and bead in what well there is. I use a spring clamp to hold the bead but that's not working nor a block of wood wedged in. So any helpful hints. I already chip the rim in a few spots which I'm not to happy about. | ||
| Uly_man |
If it was me I would lay the wheel on the ground, put a knee either side of the tyre on the bottom two quarters, place two wood levers on the top two quarters and lever it over the bead. It should be fine. | ||
| Mnrider |
Cut up some pieces of milk jug to put between the tire and rim and use soap on the beads.I held one tool with my knee and a tool in each hand to get mine on. | ||
| Kag |
give this a try http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/721948.html?1379895722 | ||
| Sprintex |
I'm using NAPA tire mounting lube, and the reason I chipped my rims is the OJ bottle I used for rim protecters split. I'll try again when I get home. | ||
| Sprintex |
I was thinking of trying that only with straps. But I'm leery of the straps, line, zip ties, getting stuck under the bead since on the rear they are so tight to the rim. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I'm using NAPA tire mounting lube I bought a gallon jug of that a couple of years ago and got maybe 2 uses out of it. Last time I tried to use it (~2 months ago), it was like water. Apparently it has a definite shelf life as mine seems to have lost all its lubricity despite having been stored indoors. I've read Windex works really well. | ||
| Sprintex |
I bought mine in the spring so far so good, Don't spill any on the floor this stuff is slick! | ||
| Motorfish |
I just mounted a D616 with a No-Scuff tire bar, a home made car rim tire mounter ( got the idea from their website), and Ru-Glide lube. I also used a 3/4" square stick to keep the bead from coming off. It all worked well. | ||
| Etennuly |
I'm using NAPA tire mounting lube I bought a gallon jug of that a couple of years ago and got maybe 2 uses out of it. Last time I tried to use it (~2 months ago), it was like water. Apparently it has a definite shelf life as mine seems to have lost all its lubricity despite having been stored indoors. I've read Windex works really well. Dawn dish detergent about 20:1 in a spray bottle works great, and a few extra squirts with a water rinse will clean the tire, wheel, and your hands as you finish up.  The Uly rear rim is tough to mount a tire on because it is thick in the middle where the bead would normally fall when being installed. When I am having a tough one on my H-F POS tire machine, I ask the wife, son, or whom ever might come along, to hold a tire bar for a minute while I spoon the rest on. Lacking anyone around I use my tractor. I did rear tires on my Vette this weekend that have a lip type bead lock inside the rim. The tires, being wide and stiff as heck, I could not hold the second bead down below the bead lock to roll the rest of it on. No one was around, so I used the front loader bucket of my tractor to push one side down and hold it while I fought the rest of it on. It was much tougher than the Uly rear, but comparable. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I did rear tires on my Vette this weekend that have a lip type bead lock inside the rim. The tires, being wide and stiff as heck, I could not hold the second bead down below the bead lock to roll the rest of it on. No one was around, so I used the front loader bucket of my tractor to push one side down and hold it while I fought the rest of it on. It was much tougher than the Uly rear, but comparable It's just a shame you didn't have someone around to photograph the process!  | ||
| Etennuly |
It just looks complicated.  It actually only took a few minutes after the first one. All it had to do was hold the tire an inch further down than I could hold it while spooning the other side of the bead on. Hugh, I got tools.....I'm gonna use them!  | ||
| Sprintex |
To bad my 26" Snapper rider doesn't have a bucket. One thing that I have a problem with the Harbor Fright tire mounter is that it is to high and I'm 5'11'' ,it's hard to lean on the tire to get some leverage. | ||
| Sprintex |
Success! I used 3, 3/8 pieces of plywood at about 9 6 3 o'clock the center when did the trick popping the bead lower in the rim, went on like hot butter. Now to tackle the bearings. | ||
| Etennuly |
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| Sprintex |
Any hints on removing the old bearings? I have been searching but haven't come up with much on installing new ones. Can I just put the new ones in the freezer over night and use some threaded rod nuts and washers or sockets to draw them in? | ||
| Kag |
Get bearing puller, AutoZone rents them if you do not have one. Use a heat gun heat gun to heat the bearing/hub area....pull bearings out being careful not to damage the spacer. I used the heat gun on the area for about 3 minutes before trying. Once it starts moving it will come right out. Clean area after getting bearings out. Heat the hub area again and Pull your new bearing out of the freezer and put it in. Mine just tapped in with one almost dropping in. I used a block and plastic mallet to seat them in good. I also applied just a very small bit of grease to the cold bearing area and the pocket. This worked for me.......others can do as they see fit on their bike | ||
| Al_lighton |
I've posted this in other places before, so this is just a cut and paste that goes a bit beyond your question. Removing the wheel bearings from an XB Wheel can be very difficult. Most blind bearing pullers can’t get adequate purchase on the inner bearing to provide enough removal force, and even if they can, they usually bugger the spacer tube. My bearing removal tool is a 1 foot steel rod the same diameter as the axle, a box of un-plated steel washers with an OD that is the same as the axle, all available from Mcmaster Carr for pretty cheap. I support the wheel parallel to the ground at a height that puts the end of the rod halfway through the bearing. I drop the washer onto the end of the rod, clip a ground cable to the steel rod where it touches the ground, and then hit a couple welds to the washer and the inside race of the bearing. Then I use the same rod to press the bearing out. Works great, and there is zero trauma to the bearing spacer end. The design of the wheel shoulders and internal spacer tube are such that in the worst case tolerance stackup of NEW wheels, bearings, and spacer tubes, the inner race on the bearing OPPOSITE the caliper/rotor will be seated against the inner spacer with just less than 0.5mm clearance between the rear wheel shoulder and the outer race, and just less than 0.25mm on the front wheel. All of this assumes that the bearings are installed correctly (rotor side bearing seated in wheel, spacer installed, opposite bearing installed until inner race seats against spacer tube). What this means is that IF the bearings are installed correctly, AND the spacer tube is not damaged, over-torquing the axle slightly shouldn't cause an inelastic deformation of the spacer tube. If Mongo gets a hold of it and gets brutal with the breaker bar during installation, all bets are off. The bearing installation tool is designed to push on BOTH the inner and outer races in a plane. During installation of the opposite rotor side bearing, if the installation forces are applied to EITHER, but not both, of the races, you can potentially damage that bearing. If you use the old "socket on the outer race with a hammer" method, you'll probably ruin that, and possibly both bearings. You'll likely coin the bearing races, and might damage the spacer, if you seat the outer race against the wheel shoulder on that side. And regardless of the potential bearing damage, if you walk that bearing in which is easy to do with the hammer method, your interference fit of the outer race into the wheel may be compromised. So press the rotor side bearing in with an anvil that presses both the inner and outer races until the rotor side bearing is seated completely in the wheel. Then flip the wheel over, and support the wheel by BOTH the inner and outer races on that bearing. Drop the spacer tube in, and then press the other side bearing in by both the inner and outer race until the inner race is just kissing the spacer tube. It’s a good idea to VERY LIGHTLY coat the surfaces that the bearings seat into with anti-seize. This will help the bearings glide in rather than skip in. I don’t use thermal methods (i.e., heating the wheel, cooling the bearing) and it works fine if anti-seize is used. When a bearing goes more than a little bad, it is possible and likely that the end of the spacer tube can be damaged. In this case, the margins afforded by the design as described above can be affected. Some bearing removal tools can also damage the ends of the spacer. So inspect that spacer tube with each bearing change. Here are the nominal dimensions for the spacer tubes. Rear Spacer Tube: 202.8 +/- 0.05 mm, 7.984 +/- 0.002 inch Front Spacer Tube: 107.9 +/- 0.05mm, 4.248 +/- 0.002 inch The threaded rod method for pulling in the bearings will only work if the "washers" are very thick, and the OD of the rod and the ID of the "washers" are closely matched. If thin washers that won't keep themselves perpendicular to the rod are used, they won't pull the bearings in parallel to the bore. Once the bearings angle a certain amount relative to the bore, they just lock up. A press works so much better. Al | ||
| Dr_greg |
Re: the NAPA RUGlyde rubber lubricant I recently dis/mounted F/R tires on my new GS (sorry), and used this lube instead of my usual "soapy water". Had a very difficult time; I think the soapy water would have worked better. --Doc PS. In the field I've heard banana peel works well... PPS. I use a modified HF changer, and the Mojolever... | ||
| Teeps |
After reading the trials and tribulations in this and like threads, here and on other moto forums... all I can say is: Sure glad I still can use the Coats Pneumatic Motorcycle tire machine where I used to work... | ||
| Yo_barry |
And I'm happy that Al @ American Sport Bike installed the bearings in my 2010 Uly wheel. | ||
| Motorfish |
Ok Teeps, quit your bragging. Hahaa | ||
| Sprintex |
I ended up using the hor cold with a little tapping, miles will tell. My oem red seal bearings looked fine at 27K, maybe I should have just left them in. | ||
| Etennuly |
Teeps, I started out changing tires as a preteen at a local gas station. I learned how, and did so on a manual changer, this was years before any rural service centers had the powered ones in their shops. In 1974 the shop I was working in got their first Coats 10-10 tire changer. I could change a set of four tires five minutes faster on the old manual machine. Many times that thing could not break the beads, so we would go back to the long leverage bars on the manual one for problem tires, for more power. Ahhhh to be an indestructible teen ager again!  | ||
| Teeps |
Etennuly, Your story sounds similar to mine. We used the shop truck, and a 2x4, to break tire beads on Goldwings that had the Goodyear "bead saver" tires. | ||
| Dpb |
I must be doing something wrong. Got 61,000 miles on my Uly, changed all my tires and never had any problems. Will do the rear again this weekend. I suppose I'll have problems now. | ||
| Sprintex |
You just know what you are doing.  | ||
| Etennuly |
I have not had any problems changing my Uly's tires. Matter of factly I have done several for other folks. Ya otta' see that Harbor Freight tire machine when we have those 39" Super Swampers on it  . Handy tool. | ||
| Sprintex |
I just changed the front doing the zip tie method, used 8 zip ties, lubed it good,put on as much as I could by hand, kneeled on it, pop it was on.  . Have to say I didn't think it would work. I tried to seat it on my HF tire changer but it is to tall and I could not t get any leverage so on to the floor. | ||
| Buewulf |
To seat that puppy, 1) Put a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire 2) Tighten it up 3) Put air in until it seats 4) Remove ratchet strap 5) Inflate to spec. | ||
| Motorfish |
If you remove the valve core, and put the valve stem into the quick disconnect on your air hose, it is less restricted, filling the tire faster. I read that here, and it worked for me. | ||
| Sprintex |
Seated with no problem , just added air. Now if I can get the four head bolts lose on my XT350 I'll be really happy! |
