| Author | Message | ||
     Portero72 |
To those enlightened few who use this oil in the hotter months, where do you get it? My Uly is up for an oil change and we have plenty of hot left here in TX. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/mo torcycle/synthetic-sae-60-motorcycle-oil/?page=%2f storefront%2fmcs.aspx http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/p2259/buy/oils-fluid s/motorcycle-oil/spectro-oil-heavy-duty-straight-6 0-weight-motorcycle-oil-1-qt-bottle/ http://www.lucasoil.com/articles1-4546/JRHallSaysh isHarleyDavidsonrunssmootherquieterandcoolerwithLu cas20w50syntheticMotorcycleOil | ||
| Buewulf |
Amsoil makes a 60 wt. Redline makes a 20W-60. If you have a CycleGear store in Austin, you should be able to get Redline there. | ||
| Hdxbones |
I've been purchasing Redline from these guys for years, always top notch service- http://www.myoilshop.com/ Redline 20W60- http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/RedLine MotorcycleOil20W60HD/Red_Line_Motorcycle_Oils | ||
| Panhead_dan |
The only 60w I have been able to find is Volvoline. I tried to order a barrel of Castrol when is disapered from the shelves but it's unobtainable. So now I just use 20-50 and take it easy when it's hot out. This is all part of "their" plan for planned obsolescence. bastages. (Message edited by panhead_dan on July 29, 2013) | ||
| Slowride |
I had to visit the local HD dealer to pick it up. When I went to the counter, the old pirate asked me if I was running an old shovel head. I said "No, in my Buell". He suggested I use some of the new HD 20/50 syn in it. I thanked him for his suggestion and said the book calls for 60wt in the summer time on the Buell. He just looked surprised... I left. | ||
| Griffmeister |
A single viscosity oil? Really? I know it's been a hot summer almost anywhere but straight SAE 60 is only for temps above 80 degrees. The first night that drops below 80 means an oil change. It seems that some people can find a multi-grade 20W-60 that would give you the better lubricity on the hot days but let you run the same oil as the days get cooler. Just seems easier to me. | ||
| Jessemc |
Brad Penn out of Bradford, PA also make a straight 60w oil.There's a where to buy link on their website...but your local HD dealer probably isn't listed. A lot of racing shops and smaller garages that cater to truckers carry it. My local seller didn't have it in stock so I bought it online for about $6.50 per qt. shipped. | ||
| Buewulf |
A single viscosity oil? Really? Yes, I'd wouldn't use a straight 60 when a 20-60 is available regardless of ambient temps. | ||
| Portero72 |
Thanks for the suggestions, guys! Oil thread over... | ||
| Etennuly |
Oil thread over?  No way! it's just getting good! Since 60W has become scarce around here, (I sell oil and my distributors won't carry it) I have to admit I do cheat a bit. I switched to Rotella 15-40 non syn a few years ago when HD decided their brand of oil was worth three times the prices of everyone else's. $12 a quart three years ago was just stupid, it is not even synthetic high mileage oil. For my summertime oil changes I have been using 2 quarts of the Rotella 15-40 and a half quart of Lucas or STP thick and chewy additives. I have had good results with keeping the engine quieter, using very little oil between changes, not running hot, and good starts even when cold. In the colder months I just run the Rotella. I would still run the factory recommended stuff if not for the 60+ mile round trip, the lack of availability, the stupid high prices, and the good experiences that I am having with my choice of oils.  My only problem with anyone asking about oils is that when they are running full syn 20-50, in the summer, when it is hot out, are the same two questions; 1. why is my engine so noisy? 2. where did my oil go? In these air/oil cooled torque monsters thick and chewy makes them happy above 75F or so. | ||
| Luftkoph |
kendall nitro 70  | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I once had a $300 Ford Escort with a "compromised" engine that burnt a quart per 100 miles. It still got 40 MPG so I used to have to stop for oil and not gas. anyways, I experimented with 70 weight catsup oil. I think it was supposed to be for geartrain use. The result: Barely starts in the cold morning. Barely goes the speed limit. Now only burns a quart per 175 miles! At that point, I gave up and just got the thin cheap stuff and called it a two-stroke. | ||
| Etennuly |
Nate,  Me and some buds did the same with a VW woods buggy in the mid 70's. It had a T-P exhaust and pumped a quart of oil out every twenty miles or so. It got to where we ran 90W gear oil in the engine. We had to heat it with a kerosene heater to get it to start in the winter. Man did that gear oil stink coming out the pipe! The oil would drip off the down hanging muffler. | ||
| Mnrider |
oil thread over  I had an old pickup that always oil fouled the #8 spark plug so I would just put in a new plug and the thickest oil I could find. (Message edited by mnrider on August 02, 2013) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Funny you mention the spark plug thing. That old beater stopped running right on the way home from my friend's house in the middle of the night 20 miles or so away. I think to myself I'll get it home and figure out what to do in the morning. TOP speed of the thing in that state was 45. Well it did get me home and when I parked it, I saw a GLOW from under the hood. I looked and the cat on the front of the engine was ORANGE. It fouled one or two plugs and fed the unburnt fuel/air to the cat! Replacing the plugs fixed it and from that point on, I beat the crap out of it to ensure the oil would bake off. Also, I beat the crap out of it because it was $300. I actually turned a profit on that car BTW. Sold it after 9 months for $450. I told the guy about the engine being toast but he was fine with it. Perhaps he had an engine or something? | ||
| Sagehawk |
portero72: amsoil just run or still is running a special of 6 month free 'membership' to buy their oils at 25% off retail. they have the straight 60 wt. oil @ 12.20 retail a quart and then shipping will apply. I think that I will try that as part of my heat management program. I lowered my fan settings with ecm spy and fan runs all time. fixing to raise that value back up. kinda trying to find what head temps are running at. keeping a log for documentation on what my bike is doing. | ||
| Portero72 |
I tried to stop it! But it IS fun watching you kids fight....  | ||
| Portero72 |
Sagehawk- I see you suffer through the TX summers like I do... | ||
| Sagehawk |
Portero 72, to answer the fighing post, I have a sticker on mug that says' I was put on this earth to make you miserable!' Subjects of oils and greases comes up and makes that true! Hah! Anyhow, i'm south of houston and it ain't getting cooler. mornings with humidity and 79* temp are why I'm looking at 60 wt. Take with proper warmup time and see what happens. Are you around greater houston area by any chance? Trying to get a few of us together from time to time. | ||
| Kenm123t |
Now you need that special Mix of Golden Spectro Castor oil and Wesson oil. It works well from Popsicle to Chimichanga frying temps. It will lube the bike and the intestinal tract of tailgaters | ||
| Portero72 |
Sage-I am in austin. Not any cooler here, though! | ||
| Sagehawk |
Portero 72, do you have a mini me sticker on rear of you're uly that states, keep austin weird? Just curious! Do you guys have a working buell group there or is it just haphazard get togethers? | ||
| Portero72 |
Sage- Ha! No stickers on my Uly. We do have an organized group that haphazardly gets together on Thursday nights on South Congress. Search Yahoo for 'hill country hellbuellies'. Odd bunch, we are... | ||
| Uly_man |
"60 wt oil?" NOT advised at all. These engines work on a wide band temp range. They are noisy because they have no water jacket to muffle the sound. They were not designed, even though you can, to use a fully synth engine oil. Air cooled engines like lots of oil/filter changes and MUCH MORE so if that engine has a dry sump like the HD/Buell motor. This bike has a very small amount of oil for such a big motor. Good clean oil is the key to a long lasting motor. Change it every 2500 miles to 6k and no more than every 5k after that. Oh and given the numbers it is no more than any other bike even inc the filter. It is also so easy to do anyway. Mess with oil types at your peril but it is better to control the engine temp via the fan and oil cooler. The latter fan flash works great. I have been running my 10 bike at 100 mph at 35 C and the fan still does not come on at stand still. Sorry missed a point here. What is it that people are trying to do with the oil thing? Is it more miles per change. A cheaper oil change. A longer lasting engine. A quite engine. A better start in cold conditions. Or other? (Message edited by uly_man on August 03, 2013) | ||
| Sagehawk |
uly man , i think you covered it all in you're question. for you're 10 bike, what does you're fan flash do for you're bike? also, the oil cooler is larger, correct? dino oil 20-50 is what you run? I keep hearing of these things in general but i'm lacking details of differences tween my 07 and the 08 thru 10 models. I've started commuting 100 miles a day which is freeway riding here in houston and have done a lot of mods for heat control for i have no desire to have to do another motor roll for rocker box gaskets soon. I appreciate all the ideas that everyone has shared as i have used a lot of them. kinda goes back to the years after the knucklehead, pan , and shovel as those folks had to be mechanics as well to ride and keep their bikes on the road all the time. | ||
| Portero72 |
"60 wt oil?" NOT advised at all. Except that it IS recommended. In the 09 service manual. For temperatures that do not drop below 80 F. Which, in Texas, generally means July-mid September. A 2010 bike, in London? Likely a different story... My original question has been sufficiently answered, thanks to all who did! I shall attempt again to kill this thread. Pretty sure somebody will try to bring it back to life...cheers, all!  | ||
| Etennuly |
Here in East Tennessee 60W is usually good from the end of June through mid September. Don't forget that 50W is also recommended for when the temps will be a little cooler. I spoke with a Buell HD technician in '05 just after he had been to their "oil school". He told me not to mix the different straight weight oils due to the molecular formations being different. He said they will never mix well and can cause clumping on the molecular level. He went on to say that the heavier straight weight oils have larger molecules that "cushion" metallic collisions better and their larger size carries and dissipates heat better. This is why he recommended staying with the book's oil recommendations verses running a synthetic oil even though it proves to be more slippery, more resistant to heat break down, and longer lasting. He said, simply put the straight weight oil's molecules expend themselves protecting the engine, the oil wears out. On the other hand, synthetic oil's molecules protect themselves while lubricating the engine, therefore it lasts longer. In my profile I claim to run 'Cheese Whiz'. This covers me for those days I just don't feel like arguing oil types. |
