| Author | Message | ||
     Whisperstealth |
I went and pulled a truly stupid move yesterday. I've pulled the plugs out many times before and never screwed up, but this time I F'ed up big time. I cross-threaded my Rear spark plug 1/2 way down the hole. I noticed it was unusually hard/stiff when I removed the plug. I thought that the antisieze I put on the threads when I installed the plug was the cause. Thought maybe I put too much on and it was gubbered up. So I didn't think too much about it when it was a little hard to thread in. I threaded it in part way, found it was a little hard going(Should have been My first clue!), so I pulled it out, cleaned the threads and put it back in. This time it went a little further. Did this a couple of times, not realizing that I was damaging the threads. It finally got to the point where the plug would go no further without tremendous force. At this point I knew something was way wrong, and shined a light on the plug to see it was only half way in. I backed the plug out, and shined a light to see it looks as if half the threads are damaged. So what do I do now? Am I going to have to remove the head and try cleaning up the threads with a Tap? Use one of those time-sert things? Anybody have experience with this? How hard is it to do?, How hard is it to remove the head? Should I just force the plug in and deal with having a cross threaded plug? I really need help on this one, anybody able to? I have zero experience in re-threading, and zero experience in taking a head off. The bike is my only transportation btw, my truck is down as well. | ||
| Ourdee |
I think DrGreg did some threads on this. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
It's possible to clean up the threads with the head on and engine not rotated but it will not be easy. I would use a nice blob of grease and a thread chaser. The grease should catch any metal filings. The problem is that the threads will be a tad loose and there will be a possibility of a spark plug threading in incorrectly again, following the damaged threads. To fix it right, the head needs to come off and threads be repaired, all by a competent Buell mechanic. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Too much anti-seize will definitely defeat the purpose. After a few months the "grease" part burns/evaporates away leaving the "dust"; if you've got it really caked on there, it will make the plugs difficult to remove. I've found that if you apply a healthy coat of anti-seize to the threads, and then wipe most of it off with a shop towel, that seems to work well. You leave enough on the threads to protect them and not so much that you wind up with a coat of concrete on the threads. When installing the plugs, I always use a piece of fuel hose to get the plug started and screw it into place. If it won't go like that, I take it out and try again. When it's pretty well snugged down, then I get the wrench out and give it a final tightening. | ||
| Dr_greg |
Always the rear cylinder, isn't it... After my rear plug "blowout" I performed a Time-Sert repair. I'd advise removing the head for this job; it's not very hard at all. The Uly engine is quite easy to wrench on. Just be advised there's a definite sequence to assembly. If you look up my old threads you should get some help. --Doc | ||
| Ratbuell |
I've done plug thread repairs on engines before. Do the thread work, leave the plugs out, and crank the engine a bit. That should toss the chips you didn't catch with grease, out the path of least resistance - the open plug hole, and maybe the exhaust valve. Not the "right" way...but works in a pinch and I've never had to re-ring anything I did it on. | ||
| Tootal |
At this point, if you can't pick up the original threads with a tap, I would pull the head and tap it from the combustion chamber side. You will pick up the good threads and fix the bad ones. Light anti-sieze is the way to go too. If they are too far gone then a proper time sert will fix it forever. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Given the amount of possible grief trying to tap, I'd just go the timesert route and be done with it. If you want to "cheat", do the timesert without removing the head. If you want to do it right, do the timesert and remove the head. Personally, I would be VERY tempted to do the timesert with the head in place. Lots of time with compressed air, shop vac, and lots of creative use of tubing, and maybe even a borrowed borescope. Pulling the head isn't bad, but you then should probably replace the base gaskets as well. Again, not bad, but its a lot of new gaskets and pieces and chances to screw something else up. | ||
| Luftkoph |
I used one of those spark plug chasers,(napa autozone ect.) once a long time ago on a suzuki,run her up to top dead center,put a little grease on the end of the chaser,and after that clean out with compressed air, you have no compressor a can of electronics cleaner air,then vacuum, think thats how I did it but that was like 35 years ago good luck | ||
| Whisperstealth |
The problem I see with trying to do the repair with the head on is: How do I get the tap to the right angle? Wouldn't I still have to rotate the engine? There is not enough room and the angle is off to try to tap through the little space on a straight shot. Dr. Greg, how I wish you were close by!!! This is something I know I can't do on my own. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
Anybody know the thread size? 12m x 1.25 x ?? | ||
| Whisperstealth |
Holyshit!, the time sert tool is $200, not including the insert it self. Anybody have one and willing to lend / rent it out? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Lots of Ford F150's are ejecting sparkplugs, and there is a custom tool kit to fix it. If those are the same type of deal, you might be able to find a local mechanic with one. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
Thats a thought Reepicheep, but I think the size is different. Each kit contains only one size. | ||
| Johnshore |
Did you try Bel Metric http://belmetric.com/ The kit is about $130 and the inserts are not too much. I could loan you mine. Bel is local to me in Massachusetts. PM me. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
There is a special thread chaser available for plug holes that cleans from the bottom up. This is one type.  http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_22981241-P_x_x?cm_mmc=ACQ-_-Google-_-enhancedRM-_-22981241&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=22981241&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw=&gclid=CLPF8qSOlrgCFclDMgodIDMAFA#utm_source=acq&utm_medium=google&utm_campaign=enhancedrm&utm_content=22981241 Here's another one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sealey-Reverse-Action-Spark-Plug-Thread-Chaser-12mm-MS002-/230774820144?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item35bb404d30 And another one. http://www.shopping.com/12mm-spark-plug-rethread/aVk545mYSqOOjdeYc5Ze4w==/info Not cheap but sure beats pulling a head. Good luck! Brad | ||
| Reepicheep |
That F150 kit my buddy got (and that I helped install) wasn't a timesert kit, it was purpose built for a specific problem with newer F150s. They appear to have a chronic problem with spark plug ejection. His kit cost $250 or something, bit it came with 4 inserts. It was specifically designed for spark plug head repair, and it had all the taps and stuff for the "outside" of the insert, so that doesn't matter. And how many sizes are there for spark plugs threads for cars? There can't be more than 2 or 3, so you may have a 50% chance if it being right. I helped him put one in, so now he has the kit in his garage with 3 spares. Cheap repair for him ($250 versus $1k+ to have the head removed and repaired). Google the F150 issue and you will find some useful threads (even if those kits don't work on the Buell). For example: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/991189-spark-plu g-thread-repair-with-photos-2.html Oh, hey, I think this is the kit he used... "Calvin". Looks like it anyway. http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_18300_61 1/atd_ford_spark_plug_insert_installer_atd5400.htm l Maybe they make something in the right size for a Buell as well. | ||
| Johnshore |
I bought my Uly used with only 2500 miles on it. The previous owner said all he had done was an oil change and for some reason the spark plugs, one of which blew out around 6000 miles. Turns out he stripped them both. I did rotate the motor to install the timesert. I did it with the heads in place with plenty of grease on the tap. Even with the motor tilted it still was a chore getting the back plug. I had to use a socket because a tap handle was too long. Over 18000 miles now and still good. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
Blumz, don't think I can use a thread chaser because the threads near the bottom appear to be gubbered up with anti-sieze, but I'm not sure. This whole thing has got me messed up in the head. I read the manual and know I need help to fix this. Doing it on my own on my carport would result is disaster. And I'll have the bike paid off next month. Just when I thought things would get a little bit easier... |
