| Author | Message | ||
     Danair |
Bought a used 07 Uly front wheel that I don't think has ever been washed. I've tried everything obnoxious in my shop to clean the brake and road grime off of it to no avail. Any ideas? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Westley's Bleche White works miracles on 1125 rear wheels which pick up a lot of funk from the exhaust and rear brake- I'd give that a try. Otherwise, I'd say brake cleaner (the good old chlorinated solvent kind), followed by a quick wash so the paint doesn't get eaten. | ||
| Uly_man |
The finish/paint on these wheels seems to like to "bond" with brake dust and can be hard to clean. Its a real pain in the ass. Get a bucket of hot/soapy water and a VERY well used kitchen washing pad. Go over the wheel with gentle strokes and all the grime will come off easy. Once dry wipe over the wheel with a silicon polish which will make the next clean much more easy. Or at least thats what I do and it works real well. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I would suggest avoiding brake cleaner. I used that on my X1 some years back and the cleaning rag came up very blue. (Blue wheels) | ||
| Uly_man |
So would I. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Dry wheel. NOT in the sun (not warm). Simple green. Soak it, let sit for a few minutes, wipe, rinse. If that doesn't do it I just discovered a product called White Lightning (or maybe its Greased Lightning...). No-touch, spray and rinse and if does wonders on my diesel trucks chrome wheels. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Try WD-40 and a soft green scrubbie pad. Then follow up with soap. There are specialized "wheel cleaner" products as well. Some do nothing, some appear to be capable of dissolving a wheel to nothing in 10 minutes. | ||
| Thumpthump |
Try Mr. Clean Magic eraser. Works wonders without scratching much. Will dull the finish a little. | ||
| Thumpthump |
Oh yeah, Protect all cleaner in a blue can. I would use it to clean all the chain sling off the back wheel of my old bike with a chain. Worked wonders. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Here in Spain i tried many products and the cheapest grease cleaner that you can use on clothes did miracles and no damage at all. | ||
| 99savage |
Never faced your particular problem but my cleaner of last resort is baby-oil, followed by dish detergent to remove the baby oil. | ||
| Tootal |
Try a solution of Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda and hot water. This stuff takes wax off any surface along with all the crap too. It's 3 bucks a box! | ||
| Danair |
Thanks for all the tips! Used GoJo hand cleaner of all things and worked great. Now to the core of the bitch of a problem. 2nd front rotor in 15k miles acting warped. Read all the posts and followed all those tips. Bought this dirty ass used wheel to rule out other wheel which did have some damage from moving company. New bearings and spacer installed by the book. Put on old rotor which was well below lateral run out spec on a surface plate. Did all the pad material xfer tips, and used new hardware. Didn't feel right when torqued. 2 opposing mounts didn't feel the same as the others when pressing against the springs and letting go. Double checked everything and sure enough its worse. Have a new rotor but there's got to be something going on. Even though there is very little run out, you can see the reflection off the rotor change is those spots. I've got 3 Uly's, drive them very gently and yet this one is driving me batshit especially after eliminating the wheel. Did someone mention trying to smell the color 9? End rant.... | ||
| Hughlysses |
Are you using stock mounting hardware or the EBR hardware? The EBR mounting hardware has eliminated front brake problems for a lot of us. | ||
| Danair |
Just ordered the EBR mount kit!! |
