| Author | Message | ||
     Uly_man |
After changing from Scorps to PR2s it has taken me six goes to get the head bearings back to what they were like before. Not sure why though. Maybe they were "sticking" on the shaft which was what the "clicking" was all about. The Scorps were working better on the 10 bike than the 06 bike for road work. In fact more like the PR2s on the 06 bike. With the 06 bike you needed use active counter steering but with the 10 bike on PR2s just a slight shift in body weight will make the bike lean into a bend. Using active counter steering as well, if you want to, will make it dive in very fast. The 10 bikes front end does not act the same way as the 06 bike. The rebound and compression seems the same though. Maybe its the new trees or the springs which could be progressive. Whatever it is it can be more sensitive to rider input than the 06 bike on the same rubber. | ||
| Etennuly |
I noticed a big difference in going to the PR2 from the Scorpion Sync in the cornering respect also. I ran several sets of Syncs after the Dunlop 616s the factory put on my '06 Uly. They handled nearly identically, I always thought pretty well. When I first went to the PR2 the Uly seemed to just fall into the corners with a mere suggestion of leaning that way. No steering effort, just look in the direction of the turn. Then a riding buddy put them on his '06, coming off the Syncs as well. After letting him lead on roads we frequented, I realized he was about 5 mph faster than he had ever been confident with previously. When we talked about it later, he did not realize our speed increase and said it just felt more confidence inspiring than before. There is a bearing resistance "pull" test for the head bearings. Remove all items that will cause drag, elevate the front, pull the bars from one lock to the other with a small spring scale. I don't recall the exact amount of pull, it is in the SM. I cannot reach that right now. | ||
| Mhevezi |
On my M2 I rode with the factory Dunlops for the first 12k miles. Bike handled fine. But for my 3rd set of tires, I chose the Bridgestone BT020 tires and noticed a huge change in how the bike handled, especially on turn in. I wanted to know why, so I did some research and found the Bridgestones had a much steeper profile and would lean into a turn with much less effort than the factory Dunlops (220's I think) Not sure how this will relate to the head bearings, but it could account for the handling differences between the tires on your 2006 and 2010 bike. Cheers. | ||
| Uly_man |
As I said I did it a number of times and most of the "clicking" was gone and the bottom tree moved up about 2mm. The problem was that the steering was still to light for my taste and much lighter than before. Good on a track but on the road it was not so good. In the end I done the nut up with a one foot bar tighter than before and then re-set the torque. Now ALL the clicking has gone and the steering resistance is back to what it was before and the same as the 06 bike was as well. The bike feels great again. I have had many bikes but none have, once set up right, the near perfect balance of the Uly. And unlike many a sports bike it can do it on the, most of us have now, bad roads with no drama. After my 06 bike was stolen I went looking for a new bike but for the price I could NOT find anything close to replace it but by chance I found the 10 bike. The Uly is the only product I have ever bought that I would be happy to pay the full dealer price for and WOULD have if they still sold them. Worth every cent in my opinion even with its problems and I have had most of them over the two bikes. |
