| Author | Message | ||
     Advoutlander |
What is the easiest way to remove the wheel bearings? I saw a vid on youtube using the screwdriver and hammer method, tapping the edge of the spacer tube between the wheel bearings to pop them out. Mine are not moving. | ||
| Dtaylor |
I wouldn't use any method that applies force to the spacer, unless you plan on replacing it. A blind bearing puller makes the job very easy. Just be careful that when you expand the collet, it is grabbing the edges of the bearing, and not digging into the spacer. Heat the hub with a heat gun -- that may ease removal, whatever method you use. When it comes to installing the new bearings, the chilled bearing/heated hub method is extremely easy (well documented elsewhere). Had I known just how easy, I'd not have upgraded to the 2010 rear wheel and simply replaced bearings every other tire change. My experience confirmed what others have said: the trick with the above installation method is to clean the hub well, and not be afraid to get that hub nice and hot -- like a frying pan. At the last minute of heating , apply a very thin coat of anti-seize to the hub. Too early, and it will smoke and perhaps get gunky. The anti-seize aids in the new bearing's speedy seating, as well as future removal. (Message edited by dtaylor on May 19, 2013) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Al Lighton has a great post here somewhere describing it. You put a steel rod through the bearing from the bottom, then drop a washer over the top. The washer should be just a little smaller than the inner race. Then weld the outside of the washer to the inside of the outer race (and the rod of course). Put the electrode on the steel rod, not on the wheel (obviously). Then just tap it out carefully. The weld will shrink he bearing. Find Al's post, he has a few details that are better then what I describe, but you get the idea. | ||
| Uly_man |
"using the screwdriver and hammer method". No NEVER EVER do that? Apart from the fact you will find it VERY hard work you will damage the bearing position ie the place it sits in due to the bearing twisting as you try to bash it out. The trouble is that there is no place to grab on to. You either need a blind bearing puller or something like Als way of doing it. You can always take it to a shop as it will not cost much to do. | ||
| Bpt |
Advance Auto Parts has loaner bearing tools. Puller and installers. I have not tried one yet but I remember seeing them on the shelf last time I was there and committed it to memory for future use. | ||
| Djohnk |
Heat the hub with a heat gun -- that may ease removal, whatever method you use. +1 on that comment ... I used a blind bearing puller from Harbor Freight It didn't work at all until I applied heat to the wheel hub with a hair dryer (I now have a heat gun but the hair dryer worked). | ||
| Etennuly |
I heat my wheel hub area evenly with a heat gun to some where near quite hot. Then I use a stainless steel 1/2" square bar that is about a foot long. It has precise hard corners that will catch the inner race with the available movement of the center spacer. Once the wheel is hot enough it takes little force to get the bearing to drop out. This also makes for not damaging the wheel's bearing seat area. I heat the wheel again to quite hot and drop in a cold bearing out of the freezer. Very little installation tapping may be required. Make sure you follow the service manual instructions on which side goes in first and know that the other side does not get driven all of the way in. It stops with the inner race touching the center spacer with the balls pretty much in the center of the outer race. I like to pull the outer seals to watch the alignment. I also like to add more grease than what comes in the bearings. |
