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Pontlee77
Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2013 - 07:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Went out to have a nice ride all was fine temperature was ideal, and a few times i had this hiccups like loosing power, happened a few times but it's an erratic problem not constant comes and goes and doesen't matter if there is heavy traffic or a nice open road with no traffic, used some engine injector cleaner, but doesen't seem to do anything, i really don't know what to think. i have a D&D K&N and a tuned EBR ECM. Any one had this happen? it happened riding between 3 and 4 k revs.
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Red450
Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2013 - 07:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does it seem to start after your bike has warmed up?


Have you cleaned your IAT sensor and checked the wiring on your TPS?
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General_ulysses
Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2013 - 10:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a stock, low mileage '06 that does the same thing. An occasional hiccup, stumble or pop up through the intake (otherwise runs good). I ran ECMSpy and reset the TPS to zero (although it was already zeroed fine) - no change. Does the IAT sensor get dirty and possibly cause this problem?
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Pontlee77
Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2013 - 10:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Happens when its's warm, the IAT was cleaned and was not dirty, i checked the tps cables and they looked fine.

Thanks for the replies.
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Nillaice
Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2013 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

similar experineces here.
i just checked out my TPS. with it removed, i flick ed it and wiggled and the wires wile watch the output signal on ecmspy. live link but no change in voltage.
i installed and pre-loaded it like Tootal shows.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27 3568&page=2&highlight=tootal

checked my chin spoiler clearance
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/708953.html?1365426805

checked for loose grounds.

how does the IAT sensor play into this?
by advancing timing/changing enrichment?

i'm not sure what else to trouble shoot next.
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Uly_man
Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2013 - 03:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Get TunerPro, its free and you have the lead and computer anyway, and do a logged run. Why? Because it will show any bad sensor issues in the log. Something ECM-SPY can not do in its basic form.

Trust me Pont its the only way to go and how the Pros do it. It does take a bit of time to learn it but once you have you will wonder why you did not use something like it before.
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Steveford
Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2013 - 06:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check that the seat isn't hitting the battery cables or ECM. I finally propped the stupid thing up with a very thin board (low rent but it works).
Also pull the front spark plug lead to see if it isn't chafed through and make sure that the throttle cables are allowing the butterfly to snap shut.
I had all of the above happen on my bike and each time it would run like crap.
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Pontlee77
Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2013 - 07:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Steveford,

All those things were solved actually i had to re route the battery cable and add quite a long section to make it avoid any contact with the seat, the ecm was relocated, i wonder if the problems could come from the heat on the ecm.
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Scottykrein
Posted on Friday, May 10, 2013 - 09:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had the exact same symptoms, and the cure ended up being the TPS. Get ECMSpy or Tuner Pro and check your TPS voltages per the shop manual. You should be able to watch the bar graph of your throttle go up as you turn it,and it should be super smooth. I didn't realize how bad mine was until I saw it with the new one installed.
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Uly_man
Posted on Friday, May 10, 2013 - 09:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It will also show you everything else like the engine and IAT temps. My bike started to act up and it showed the IAT at 50c and the air was 20c. Put it this way how do you know for SURE what the bike is doing otherwise. Best of luck.
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Pontlee77
Posted on Monday, May 27, 2013 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Had a couple of rides and came across some more info: check engine light would come con and off,the fan would work while light was off it sopped when light came on.
at steady 3k rpm the bike is a bit bumpy, not smooth, as it used to be, so i'm wondering if all this can be related to the TPS, and if changing it would cure this, still gives those moments of loose of power.
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Teeps
Posted on Monday, May 27, 2013 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My vote would be for cracked solder joints on the ECM printed circuit board.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/673617.html?1333122196

Cracked solder joint as pictured can cause several symptoms.
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General_ulysses
Posted on Monday, May 27, 2013 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pontlee swapping out parts blindly is usually thought to not be a good idea. But on the other hand, if the part if pretty cheap and you have a good hunch it might be the problem, then maybe it's worth a shot?

The TPS for the 2006 Uly is the same as that used on a Ford Mustang. The posts below describe the TPS:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/710089.html?1366129387

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27 3568&page=2&highlight=tootal

http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Buell-Ulysse s-XB12x/Troubleshooting/Stumble-Stutter-Overheatin g-jerky-throttle.

Here in the states this part can be purchased for about $30-$40 USD. I see that you're in Espana, so not sure if you can get these parts there at these prices or not. I think they're also available on ebay internationally. If so, it might be worth taking a chance and swapping it out. My '06 Uly does the same thing once in a while and I'm thinking about replacing the TPS just to see if it fixes it. But what Uly Man says I'm sure is a better idea. The tuner pro sounds like the way to go. I already bought the ECMSPy cable on ebay for $40, so I'll probably get the Tunerpro and see if I can get mine fixed that way. Uly man do you know where tunerpro can be had? Hopefully it's free or sharewarish?

And Pontlee, can you show us more pics of your Uly? It looks like you have some really cool looking artwork on the bike. Would be nice to see everything in more detail. Thanks
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Uly_man
Posted on Tuesday, May 28, 2013 - 05:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

General_ulysses. You will need.

www.tunerpro.net
Download the program from here and the Buell reader/writer (BuellIOPlugin.zip) from the download/plugins section. Run the Tuner-Pro prog and then un-zip the BuellIOplugin zip file and put the files in the Tuner-Pro folder. You will need this to read/write to the ECM. Tuner-Pro will be in the "program files" directory of your main hard drive if you need to find it. Make a "short cut" for it on your desktop.

www.ecmspy.com
Go here for supported ECMs - www.ecmspy.com/supported.shtml. Yours should be BUEIB XB - model years 2005-2007. Download "TunerPro RT V5 Bin-Definition" and "TunerPro RT V5 ADX" files and put them in the Tuner-Pro directory.

Open Tuner-Pro from the desktop short cut, what for the 10 second countdown and then click "continue". On the top line you will need to load a BIN file (.bin), a XDF file (.xdf) and a ADX (.adx) file. A XDL file (.xdl) is added as well if you want to run a "logged" run. You choose these from the menu on the second line. The XDF and ADX files are from the ECM-SPY download. The BIN file is downloaded from your bikes ECM. And a XDL file is what is made on a logged run.

Click on "tools" in the menu bar. Go to "preferences" and then "Data Acq./Emulation". In the "Data Aquisition & Logging" box choose "use Plug-in" in the Interface Type box. With your USB lead plugged in to the laptop click on the "Configure Plug-in Component" and do the test to ensure the computer is seeing the lead.

You may need to play around to get it to work by changing to another USB port. Once it does plug the cable in to the bikes data port, turn on the ignition and click on the "blue left/right" box in the menu bar. The "Hardware Not Found" box at the bottom of the page should then give you your ECM type ie BUEIB. The yellow "DA:Not Connected" box should go green. The grey "up/download" box on the menu bar should then work as well and this is what you use to download/upload to/from the ECM of the bike.

Now I think that is all correct, its been a while, but read through the help file first as well. You MUST save your OEM ECM file to at least two places and one on a memory stick as well to be safe once you get it off the ECM. You can not do any harm as long as you do not hit save and it always prompts you first anyway. If you mess up that is what the back-ups are for.

You should be able to see the "live data", with the bike running, in "show data list views" but to make the "dash" and "show data monitor"work you will need to set up the ADX (definition) file for you ECM type. The "show data monitor" gives you a running graph of what the engine is doing and what you need for a logged run ie it will show you any odd "blips" in the data. You can also see it if you read through the raw data but thats the hard way of doing it although it is not easy to set up in the first place unless you have done it before.

Now all of this may seem like a lot of work but trust me once it is working right you will wonder why you never did not do it before. Its hard to explain why so I will give two examples of why it is of use.

1) My 06 bike had a strange running problem. In the end I tracked it down to a timing issue, it was not changing as the engine got hotter, caused by the bad Earth on the sub-frame but it took me nearly two years to figure it out and then it was just shear luck. So why would Tuner-Pro help? Well it would because you can watch the timing change, as the engine gets hotter, in the data and would have seen there was a problem right away.

2) My 10 bike started to run worse and worse the hotter it got. I plugged in Tuner-Pro and it said the IAT was reading 50C while the ambient (outside) air was only 20C. I changed out the IAT and the bike run fine and still does. 20$ and one hours work was all that was needed.

xoptiinside.com is also worth looking at and his Youtube vids are good.

(Message edited by uly_man on May 28, 2013)
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Pontlee77
Posted on Tuesday, May 28, 2013 - 06:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My throttle body is a 2007 as my 06 broke the shaft (before Total has the shafts done) i have a spare TPS new, i'm not sure, but i'd doubt that the ecm was bad it's an EBR so not old and never had the seat pan touching it.
As soon i'm going to install a Micron, and use a different race ecm i can judge from there, i can also take a ride and use the do a megalog run maybe there i could find out something.

Thanks guys.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, May 28, 2013 - 07:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Beware of sampling errors when using the ECM to diagnose things. That's not to say don't do it, you should, there is a ton of good information in there. Just be aware of the limitations of what you are seeing.

Basically, the ECM samples values X times per second. ECMSpy or TunerPro or Megaloger query the ECM over a kind of turducken, what is effectively a serial port re-implemented via a USB bridge.

So the samples you are getting are just one point in time. Something bad might happen, but at times when the ECM isn't looking, or when the laptop software didn't gather the data.

The laptop approach will work great for steady state errors, like a temp sensor that says its 30 degrees out on a 100 degree day. That sensor or wiring or ECM is toast.

But for noisy or intermittent errors, like when my cam position sensor was going, the ECM data was pretty much worthless.

FWIW. You can also get a cheap digital storage scope for under $100 now, but you will have to invest some time learning how to use it. It suffers from a similar problem, but because they are sampling at closer to 20,000 times a second, it's harder for the transient to get past them.
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Uly_man
Posted on Wednesday, May 29, 2013 - 03:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"But for noisy or intermittent errors, like when my cam position sensor was going, the ECM data was pretty much worthless". Yes that is very true.

The sample rate for Tuner-Pro and the like is crap but you should, most of the time, get what you need and it is deffo a better option than just guessing what is going on and/or just changing out parts. Much cheaper as well.
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General_ulysses
Posted on Wednesday, May 29, 2013 - 06:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Uly man thanks for all the great info on tunerpro. I'm gonna try and do everything you said and check my bike out. Preasheate it man!
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Fordhotline
Posted on Wednesday, May 29, 2013 - 11:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Try wiggling the wires on the TP sensor right where they exit the sensor while bike is running. I had a concern there.
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Pontlee77
Posted on Wednesday, May 29, 2013 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

as i have handy another race ecm i'll try it out and see if that gives me some different feed back
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Pontlee77
Posted on Wednesday, June 19, 2013 - 03:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was wondering, when i go to start up the bike the fuel pump makes not a smooth noise as before, could this be the problem?
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