| Author | Message | ||
     Yan |
Will be transporting Ulysses in the back of a Ford Ranger. Never done that before, so wondering how much should I compress the forks? Want it to be secure and stable of course, but concerned about blowing a seal if over torque those ratchet straps. Thanks! | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Use a seal saver if your going far. It fits between the wheel and fender and prevents damaging the seals from pressure. If your going a short distance don't bother. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I've hauled a Uly cinched "good and tight" in a trailer for 600 miles in a day, and never had any hint of a seal leak as a result. I think if your seals are good, they won't leak. If your seals are bad, they will leak, but it's because your seals are bad. You don't want it cranked down so tight there is no suspension movement left. But you also don't want it so loose that if you hit a bump it can compress enough to release a hook and eject the bike. | ||
| Ratbuell |
biggest thing when strapping ANY bike is, make sure it can't "bounce out of the straps". If you strap it down and can grab the bars and move it from side to side...it's too loose. If you sit on it and cannot compress the suspension any more...it's too tight. For fun - put a zip tie on each lower/inner fork leg and go for a ride. The fork seals will push the zip ties down during your normal riding...and I bet you'll be surprised how far you actually compress the suspension just from riding. (this is a trick from track day setup techniques - it will NOT harm your forks, but you can get a ton of information from it) | ||
| Nillaice |
I leave about 4 fingers width of fork travel when transporting bikes. Enough to compress the suspension but still leave some squish space for big bumps on the road. And the kickstand down so you don't forget to put down when it's time to unload the bike 2 straps on the front, and one up thru the grab handles. one strap around each fork from the lower triple tree. Fed so the strap is thru the eyelet and not just hooked to make me feel better about it. | ||
| Miller |
I hauled mine from MI to AZ, cranked her down til she was rock solid in the truck, and had no issues. | ||
| Etennuly |
When I haul mine in a box truck I am more apt to make the straps pull it tight into the front wall. I only pull it down an inch or so. When I haul it on an open trailer or in a pickup I pull it down over half it's front travel and as much forward into the front wall as possible. Then I will put a strap on the rear tire for side to side restraining. I always try to loop or hook the straps in a way that they cannot come off in the event of a hard jolt. Rather than use the hooks on a standard ratchet strap, I run the length of the strap through the hole on the other end of the hook. If I am hauling one bike in the center of a pickup I run the straps over the front wall down to the frame. I like to send the strap over the outside(rounded edge) of the frame rail and hook a hole on the inside if one is handy. | ||
| Blugorilla |
I agree with compressing front suspension, but not full compression. I have been transporting motorcycles for at least 17 years, and this has always worked for me. I always transport bikes with some type a wheel chock, and run a small strap around the wheel and wheel chock. Keeps the bike from going too far if a front strap lets go. For long trips I will use a second strap on each side of the front, in case one strap fails, and also a strap on either side in the rear. What befuddles me is when I see bikes being transported with the rear straps going to the rear corners of the truck or trailer. If a front strap fails, all that will do is pull the bike out the back, and then it's bouncing down the road behind your transport. Rear straps go at least straight to the side, but preferably forward as well to keep it from ejecting if a front strap fails, as well as keeping the rear tire from moving side-to-side on bumpy roads. (Message edited by blugorilla on May 03, 2013) | ||
| Fltwistygirl |
I am sure no one here would think of doing this, but way too frequently, I see bikes being transported with the sidestands down. Why on earth would people think that was a good idea? If u really hate your bike that much send it to a good home...mine! | ||
| Teeps |
Fltwistygirl Posted on Saturday, May 04, 2013 I see bikes being transported with the sidestands down. Why on earth would people think that was a good idea? I don't know, but it took many trips to convince my dirt riding friends that the side stand should be up, when transporting the bike. OP, Make sure the front wheel cannot twist side to side. If the truck does not have a wheel chocks. I would suggest pointing the wheel into the corner, then securing the forks. And, secure the rear of the bike so the rear wheel cannot move side to side. | ||
| Nillaice |
i leave the kickstand down because in the past i've forgotten to put it down when loosening the straps. not to say that i strap it down ON the kickstand. the bike is straight up, with the kickstand an inch above the truck bed. sorry that i didn't clarify. it seems intuitive to me that the bike is square and level. if you can always remember to put it back down; good on ya. but i don't see the harm in having the kickstand down (but not load bearing) for transport. | ||
| General_ulysses |
I've transported bikes with the sidestand down. As long as all four corners are properly secured with ratchet straps, the suspension is compressed and the wheels are blocked, it's fine. | ||
| Teeps |
So for those in the "side stand down" camp. Does that mean you install a side stand on your race bike(s) for the purpose of transport? | ||
| Nillaice |
if i had a race bike, or better said 'track bike' it might not have a kickstand, so then the default answer would be a 'no'; otherwise i'd still leave it down. the dirt bikes i've had the pleasure of riding didn't have side stands. we used those triangle shaped pieces that poke thru the axle to park it i don't see what the big deal is. or why it matters if it's a race bike. ... i straight-line raced my buddy last week. me on my uly, and he on his shovel head. does that count? | ||
| General_ulysses |
I guess it's probably best to leave the sidestand up because theoretically the sidestand could transmit jarring motion to the bike's frame during transport. The thing I get nervous about with the sidestand up, is what might happen if one of the made in china ratchet straps comes loose during transit. The sidestand down offers at least some protection there and might give you enough time to react to a slipped strap before the bike goes over. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Everybody worries too much. Jeez. Strap it on the front. Compress the suspension enough so the bike can't tip out of the straps. Don't pinch a brake line or a wiring harness. I leave my sidestand down but it's not a weight point. Drive. Kick the sidestand forward to lock it into place, in case it walked back during transport. Unstrap the right strap first, sending the bike over onto the sidestand and not onto its side. Simple. I never strap the backs of my bikes unless I have them on a bouncy lightweight cargo trailer. Back of my truck? Strap the forks and that's it. Rear straps are overkill - I'm not going to autocross my diesel truck while the bike is back there and the rear end isn't going to go anywhere. At least, it hasn't yet. | ||
| Motorbike |
I have hauled bikes in my truck using only two straps to the forks. I cinch them down so the forks are about halfway compressed. In this pic, I have two straps on the rear also but they really are not needed. I would recommend anchoring the rear straps so they pull forward but the Dodge only has tie-downs at each corner. I use two 2 X 10 plank ramps and two people can easily load the bike in the truck. I can shut the tailgate on my 6.5 foot box and the bike is very secure. Really though, I don't haul mine much unless a wheel bearing fails.   | ||
| Luftkoph |
30 some years of bikes in the back of trucks,always 2 straps been plenty,if I take the dirt bike more than say 15 miles on the little trailer I throw a strap over the top of the rear wheel. Motorbike how come that dodge in minnesota aint gots no rust on the fenders,is that a 1 off aluminum version. | ||
| Ratbuell |
The trick to no-rust-Dodges is pulling the tailights out once a year. Remove taillights. Hose interior of quarter panels - especially the top of the wheel arch - liberally with a garden hose to remove dirt, sediment, road salt, and whatever else has accumulated. Go mow grass while everything dries. Reinstall taillights. 217,000 rust-free miles   | ||
| Motorbike |
Luftkoph, that pic was taken in 2010 and at that time, there was no rust. I bought the Dodge new in 1997 and drove it daily for 10 years, 110,000 miles. Now only used occasionally as I bought an old Neon for better MPG. The truck now has a little bubble in the paint right above the rear wheel and the RF fender actually has a hole in it. Makes me sick to see that as I have always taken good care of the truck but the rust came through from the inside. I wish I had known Ratbuell's trick, I surely would have done that. Ratbuell, your truck is really nice for the miles and age of it! Do they use as much salt there as they do here? Most vehicles 5 or more years old in MN have rust. We kind of get used to it. Thanks. | ||
| Luftkoph |
i can tell you motorbike,that i lived in hagerstown Md. for 6 years and they hardly put any salt on especially if you compare it to n Mich. n Wis. n Ontario or Minn. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Washington County is different than Frederick County. Frederick...the roads turn white, can't see the stripes. Washington was more used to the cinder treatment, which can chip the paint and cause as much damage as the salt can. Although lately, they've been using salt crystals large enough you *hear* them chipping away at the car/truck as you drive over them... That said...I'm sure we're nothing like MN. | ||
| Etennuly |
I used to never tie the rear tire until I had it jump about a foot to the right when hitting an un seen pot hole. The bike stayed tight in it's straps, but my tent in it's bag was beside it in the rear of the truck, it could have cost me a tire. The worst kind of load problem is having something come loose when you have extra straps sitting on the seat beside you.  | ||
| Teeps |
Etennuly Posted on Monday, May 06, 2013 - I used to never tie the rear tire until I had it jump about a foot to the right when hitting an unseen pot hole. The worst kind of load problem is having something come loose when you have extra straps sitting on the seat beside you. Agree! Once the load shifts, it's can be too late for a do over. |
