| Author | Message | ||
     Chorizo |
My voltage checked at the battery measures: 12.68 with key off 12.35 with key on engine not running 12.25 with engine idling 13.4 at 4k rpm Im checking things now because after about two hours of highway riding and a few stops/starts for pics with a heated jacket on the battery died. The bike bump started and I put it on a battery tender when I got home. I am now going to install a Heads-Up LED Voltage Monitor by Signal Dynamics that I have had for months and never really thought of it as Ive had no problems. BTW I checked the 77 connector and it looks clean and tight. My questions are: Are the voltages about right? Where exactly should I be checking the voltage? What wires are you tapping into for the monitor? How would I check VR and or stator if necessary? Thanks for all the help guys. GO BadWeb! | ||
| Chorizo |
Forgot to add, I replaced the battery three weeks ago. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Seems about right. Maybe a little low...but get the gauge installed and watch for inconsistencies. I tapped my meter into the wire for gauge lighting. Don't use the accessory outlet because its designed to turn off when voltage gets low...just when you need a meter the most! If you need to check stator or VR...get a shop manual. It outlines the process very well. | ||
| Uly_man |
Depending on how good your meter is? 12.68 with key off. Is low. 12.35 with key on engine not running. It may do. 12.25 with engine idling. Not charging right and should be about 14.2v even on a 06/7 bike. 13.4 at 4k rpm. Again should be higher from the base battery charge state. Sounds like you may have a charging issue with the VR. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Where exactly should I be checking the voltage? What wires are you tapping into for the monitor?" In both cases directly across the battery posts. Is your new battery a Gel or AGM type. If it is remove it or disconnect it from the bike and charge it a less than 2 amps with the correct charger for 10 hours min. | ||
| Chorizo |
Battery is a AGM type. Is a Battery Tender Junior OK? Its rated at 750mA. As far as tapping into wires for monitor how about the Euro plug under the fly screen? Ill check VR per shop manual. My brain is sqeezing already. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Its rated at 750mA." It needs 10 hrs. Trust me I have done all the things with this on a AGM battery. "As far as tapping into wires for monitor how about the Euro plug under the fly screen?" For best results you need to run both to the battery but at the very least tap direct off the Positive of the battery. | ||
| Chorizo |
If I tap all the way to the battery, wont the monitor be on all the time and drain the battery? | ||
| Uly_man |
It may but that depends on the type/make you are using. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Everything in "the system" should be at system voltage when operating, especially if you tap into a steady, low-draw circuit. You're going to have the same linear feet of wiring to the battery whether you wire the gauge direct, or use the gauge lighting circuit like I do on all my bikes. Steady use, low draw so the fluctuations dont interfere with either the monitor or the source circuit, and ignition-switched. As I noted above...do NOT use the aux outlet circuit. The ECM will turn it OFF in low voltage conditions, making a meter hooked to it worthless....just when you need it the most. | ||
| Uly_man |
At the end of the day a volt monitor, more or less depending on the make, is only of use to show over charge to stop it cooking your ECM and other electronic parts. The ECM/CEL will show a low charge but not, I think, a over charge. Anything more than 15.1v is a problem and a AGM is only good for a max of 14.4v. The CEL on this bike is of near use as a bent dim and a waste of space. All it does is tell you that the red light on your dash is RED. | ||
| Chorizo |
Ratbuell, can you tell me what color wire the gauge lighting circuit wire is? | ||
| Chorizo |
I got it working. I tapped into the headlight wire. Will this be ok? | ||
| Chorizo |
I got it working but its reading lower after all the on and off without riding. Gonna recharge the battery and try troubleshooting tomorrow. (Message edited by chorizo on April 25, 2013) | ||
| Ratbuell |
Using a high draw circuit like the headlight can cause the meter to read the surge/drop when the headlight goes on and off. And, unless you have your headlights modified to the "2 lights" setting...if you use your high beam, your meter will go out when the headlight goes out. I want to say gauge lighting is orange...but can't find it on the diagrams. IIRC, it was easy enough to physically find it with the gauge cluster out...or I just stumbled on it lol. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Back to your original question... I'd say no, those are not normal values, and you have a compromised charging system. Either the stator has dropped out a leg, or the stator connector is bad, or the VR is failing and shunting to ground. | ||
| Chorizo |
Ok. Back to looking for a low draw positive. | ||
| Froggy |
Use the accessory outlet. Ratbuell is partly correct, the ECM can control that circuit, but ONLY if it is a 2008 or newer. Your bike is an 06 which does not have that ability. The outlet is hot as long as the key is on, possibly in Park mode too. When I bought my 08 the voltmeter was tied in with the outlet, so it does shut on and off, but it hasn't been an issue. If the outlet does shut off, the voltage is already stupidly low (flashing red), and at that point not having the voltage readout isn't going to make a difference. It is nice having it as it indicates to me my outlets are hot for troubleshooting why my GPSes/phones/radar detector/heated grips/tire pressure monitor/second dash with HUD are not working. | ||
| Chorizo |
Alright Froggy! I kept looking at that easy to see wire. Thanks | ||
| Ratbuell |
Sorry, for some reason I thought we were discussing an 08. Guess I should read profiles... | ||
| Blitzer454 |
It's also a good idea to check your idle RPM setting. I've noticed on my bike that a low setting can cause a low voltage reading. Set the idle for 1100 RPM. |
