| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
Riding around lately, I've noticed fluctuating voltage on the Kuryakn meter. Figured my original 2006 battery was on the way out...but the damn thing kept starting, so I kept riding. 30k mile '06. Then, about a week ago (took me this long to get it on the lift to check it out) I was riding, and the meter went from 2 greens...to none. Like, right NOW they went away. So, I ditched rehearsal and came home. Finally put it on the lift tonight. 34vAC on each of the 3 legs at 2000 rpm. Resistance across legs looks ok - spec says 0.1-0.3 ohms, I'm reading 0.03(ish) across each one. NO short to ground, on any leg. vDC readings? 0.29V. Seems I've found the problem! I guess the debate now is (and this is gonna turn into something resembling an oil thread, I'm sure), stock replacement and ride for another 30k miles? Or change to something aftermarket? Discuss...  | ||
| Luftkoph |
unfortunately its hard to go wrong with an HD battery,esp.as crowded as it is on these bikes,and the terminals will be just the right height no spacers or such needed,like when I bought a drag specialties battery a few years ago,the drag specialties is still good but I put a new HD in it this fall | ||
| Tootal |
It's those Dunflop tires and using non synthetic oil in the voltage regulator!!   I'd go aftermarket. I've been through 4 VR's from HD/Buell and switched to Compufire with no more problems. Shindigen seems to have a following too. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Everyone on the most recent thread have been adamant about using one of the aftermarket offerings. The Shindengen seems popular, inexpensive and adaptable to both single and three phase systems. The downside is that no one seems to have owned one for more than a year so durability is still in question. The other option seems to be Compufire which had a good long term report but does cost a bit more than the others. Since you are in need of one now you don't have the luxury of waiting to see. So you've got to ask yourself, do you feel lucky? | ||
| Ratbuell |
I also have three other tagged Buells, and two without tags that need either tires, or a front motor mount, and could be tag-able...so I do have the luxury of doing it right instead of doing it over. More research is in order...since there appears to be no head-and-shoulders solution. Yet. | ||
| Terrible1one3 |
A battery can last a long time if properly maintained. That said, I was always under the assumption that a battery on it's way out puts extra stress on a charging system and can cause failure. Old wives err... mechanics tale? Maybe, just heard. No substantiated proof to back it up though. | ||
| Desertjeff |
I used a Cycle Electric stator and regulator works great and has a 2 year warranty for less than the cost of stock replacement parts. Got em both from this guy. http://roadstercycle.com | ||
| Panhead_dan |
I've uses Cycle Electrics stuff in the past and have yet to ever have it fail. | ||
| Luftkoph |
so sorry mr.ratbuell I thought you were inferring your battery was toast. We have a guy in town that will rebuild your alt.-while you wait,and I have had him tell me weak batteries and heavy loads will work and alt to high temps and shorten their life(this is on an auto) bearings and bushings seldom wear out just the electronics. A+ to jack at roadsrtercycle that ce 605 v/r is a heavy hunk of heat sink,big ole hairy cooling fins to boot | ||
| Uly_man |
Like the intake seal issue, at 40k, it seems to me that 30k on a VR is good money. I have always wondered, given the posts here, what you guys think is fair as regards what you think you should get out of the parts of this bike. As far as a VR goes any one of the right spec will do. Its more about the quality/price/fitment. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I in no way meant to give the impression I'm upset the VR died. I absolutely got my $ out of it at 30k, and I'm fully aware that anything man builds will eventually fail. Especially electronics. And wheel bearings - I never understood getting torqued up about having bearing failure. If they fail...get new ones. If it pisses you off too much...get a new hobby. But I digress. I'm not only interested in getting the bike back running, but I want to spend my money wisely. If it costs me a % more to get %% more life/use out of an item, I'll pony up the extra dollars. If my return on investment is going to be about the same no matter what option I go with...I'll go for ease of installation (stock, plug and play). Hence my desire to do research. Am I upset it failed? Nope. Fact of life as far as I'm concerned. I have a voltmeter on the right handlebar for a reason, and it performed its function - warned me of the condition and I didn't have to push the bike home or get a tow. Win/win so far! | ||
| Ourdee |
I put this on mine,"SHINDENGEN FH020AA MOSFET". I am happy with it. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
You sure it's not your "77" connector? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Yes. I rebuilt it years ago, there's a writeup with photos somewhere here on badweb of my process and parts. And I wouldn't be able to do stator and VR tests without unplugging and testing it. | ||
| Chorizo |
My bike tried to leave me stranded the other day when I had heat gear on. I got it bump started on a lucky hill. Im a total nube to troubleshooting. Its semi frustrating but I think Im figuring it out. With a Fluke 77 Im reading 15, 17 and 24V at 2000 rpm and 0.3ish ohms on two legs but 0.5 on one. Im also getting continuity when testing per stator check in the manual. So do you guys agree it time for a new stator? Argh Thanks again | ||
| Chorizo |
Hey Ratbuel, What were you talking about here? "vDC readings? 0.29V. " | ||
| Ratbuell |
vDC is what the voltage regulator puts out and sends to the bike. Should be 12-14v DC...mine's definitely not. I'm getting .29V instead of 14v. You did the stator test (and yes, it sounds like you need a stator); the voltage regulator test is either right before or right after it in the manual. | ||
| Chorizo |
I have to say, its rewarding to get to know your bike. In the past I would just pay the shop. Now there are no shops and I have little cash to spend on a bike. Good thing I know the right people  | ||
| Chorizo |
I did a search on Youtube and found videos on how to do the stator. The guy makes it look easy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXI5wZ4_PFU | ||
| Tootal |
Chorizo, The Harley is a little different but basically the same. Here's a thread where I was changing to the XB9 primary but it includes some pictures and procedures that might help. You will have to do everything mentioned to get to the stator anyway, except change the sprocket and chain to the XB9 parts. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/425775.html?1230619985 | ||
| Ratbuell |
Well, we'll see how the Shindengen performs...been chatting with Jack at roadstercycle - nice guy, knows his stuff. Makes me feel good about the purchase  I'll do my best to document the install...should be straightforward enough. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Rat, looks like you decided on the Shindengen. What made you decide to go this way? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Honestly, a lot of it was customer service. Jack seems great. I like MOSFET tech, and trust it to regulate and survive. This VR is OEM on Yamaha bikes...which, while good bikes, have the emotional appeal for me of a toaster. However...I have yet to have a toaster fail on me so I think I can count on this to be a durable piece. Price is reasonable, and he sells a complete "kit". Need to get it in-hand to see if I'll run straight to the battery as he's designed it, with a circuit breaker, or run it to the OEM 12v +/- wires where the 77 used to be (which I improved upon / replaced years ago on my bike). And...he has it in stock, shipping tomorrow (ordered it about half an hour ago). Ultimately though...as much as I trust OEM (I got 30k out of it, after all)...having an aftermarket installed (a COMMON aftermarket piece) will lend itself to easier replacements down the road, should it fail again. No wiring, plug and play VR itself...$95 from Jack. This time I'll make the bracket and do the wiring. Next time...I just replace two screws and plug in two connectors. | ||
| Chorizo |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/425498.jpg So me at 240lb needs to slide over to about 9.88 inches on that breaker bar. Hope I dont over tighten it lol | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
Dumb question; Are the aftermarket regulators not plug and play? My bike has been sitting idle way too long (since September) because I haven't gotten around to trouble-shooting the electrical system. Based on the info in may of these threads, my problem might simply be a bad regulator. Tipsy | ||
| Ratbuell |
The one I'm getting has three wires for the AC outputs, and a + wire and a - wire to go to the battery/bike systems...but that's it. Connectors are going to be different, but if you can read a wiring diagram and use a soldering iron...you can hook + to + and - to -. I plan to document my install here... | ||
| Griffmeister |
Tipsy, don't be too worried about it. The instructions are available to read online and it really is doing the same thing as OEM. The only "not" plug and play part is that it does not have the same connectors. You have to cut the more than long enough wires to proper length and crimp, solder, whatever the connectors that come in the kit. Or get the basic kit and make your own connectors. | ||
| Chorizo |
Should the universal mounting bracket for the Shindengen be ordered with it or will it bolt up without? Not sure, neither is guy at Roadstercycle. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Win/win so far!" Cool. The volts across the battery, with the engine running, should be about 13.5 to 14.5v. 12.7v is a fully charged battery and the min charge is more than that to account for the running load ie lights, etc of the bike. "My bike tried to leave me stranded the other day when I had heat gear on." These bikes have a hard time putting back in what they use just to start them and the 06 ones are the worst. Cold conditions and heated gear can kill them. I put heated grips on my 06 bike but was scared to use them as it would kill the battery on a short run. If you are going to change from a OEM VR to an aftermarket one I would advise you solder the joints and/or use good quality plugs. The reason is that mechanical joints like crimps can work loose/corrode and cause a high resistance. Just me though. | ||
| Tootal |
Chorizo, did you read the whole thread? At the bottom I was told the torque changed from the spec in the manual to a higher number. Be sure to use the higher torque number. Oh, and don't fall!  |
