| Author | Message | ||
     Advoutlander |
The diagnostic manual says its under the left air funnel. I unscrewed the 3 torx screws/fastners and cant see anything. I didnt completely remove the plastic funnel as it has 3 tie wraps connected to it and I did not want to cut them. Under the airbox I can see a funny looking plug with 3 rubber things sticking out but is only connected via 2 wires and not the 4 that is supposed to come from the data connector. If anyone has a picture that would be awesome. | ||
| Bdub_uly |
Mine is under the seat, near the front, on the left side. | ||
| Advoutlander |
What year is your uly? | ||
| Gamdh |
If you look at the lower right, you'll see the battery tender wire coming out from under the seat. The data plug is tucked up in that opening under the seat  | ||
| Griffmeister |
Yeah, not under the air scoop. It's behind the air deflector that's under the left front portion of the seat but it's easier to just remove the seat. It might be tucked in a little but should not be hard to spot. The only four pin connector that's capped and has a grey, light green/red,violet/red and black/white wires going into it. | ||
| Gamdh |
found a better pic  | ||
| Advoutlander |
Thanks guys I found it. | ||
| Advoutlander |
Its bringing up error 21 exhaust servo. After referring to to the diagnostics manual flowchart it looks like the gas and the battery is likely to have triggered the error. As I mentioned in other posts I was nearly stranded and had to fill with 87 midgrade (still trying to use all the gas before refilling with 91) and the battery which I believe is faulty (still has the original 2008 battery. Ive got a new one on order. Now before I had filled with the 87 gas I did see the warning light come on when I was on the interstate, it came on maybe 3 times randomly. Im hoping the battery has some dead cells. | ||
| Reepicheep |
That servo is a little fussy sometimes. Mine stopped working at one point, and I popped it open and cleaned out some swarf and moved some grease around, and it's working again. For what that's worth. That shouldn't have caused your runnability problems. A low battery *could* have done that. A 2008 battery is dead by now even if it doesn't know it, so that was a good move to order it. Do really good prep of contact surfaces and check grounds when you put it back together. If you have ECM spy and the special cable, you can excercise that servo with a click on the laptop. Good to diagnose that it is or isn't working, and frankly, just cool fun to do.  I am such a geek. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Advout, Get the service manual. Then you can look up these things up. Without the service manual you are without a necessary accessory for your ULY. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Michael- I promise you the 87 octane gas had nothing to do with your check engine light. As has been posted here previously, there is no knock sensor or anything similar in the engine's electronics that would detect low fuel octane. You've got a code that indicates a problem with the exhaust servo; odds are VERY good that you've got a bad exhaust servo. Failure of the exhaust servo is very common on these bikes and they servo is easy to test. Remove the airbox cover. Turn the kill switch on the right grip to "off". Turn the ignition on. Rotate the throttle to the fully open position and hold it there. Flip the kill switch to "run", while watching the servo. It should cycle, rotating all the way in one direction to pull the cable that goes down to the muffler valve, it should pause in the fully open position, then rotate back to the fully closed position. If it doesn't move or hesitates through part of the range or doesn't fully open, you've got a bad servo. The servo has a position indicator built into it that sends a signal back to the ECM. The ECM knows if the servo doesn't operate like it's supposed to and that's why it gives a check engine light. A replacement servo is around $150 IIRC. The replacement servos have metal gears (earlier ones were plastic) and hold up much better. | ||
| Tootal |
What Hugh said and also see if your servo is held together with screws or rivets. Screws means plastic gears, rivets mean steel gears. I went through two old style before I finally got the upgraded one and have not had any problems since. | ||
| Advoutlander |
 Ok i removed the airbox cover and did the check stated in the service manual the servo rotates completely and did not get stuck halfway or anything. It was turning with no issues. I took apart the servo to see if I could spot anything broken inside. It looked like it was good condition please see photos. I reassembled the servo and when I tested it again it did not work at all. I could hear the motor but it was not pulling the wire connected to the valve.    | ||
| Advoutlander |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6Zyf4wJVwI&feature =youtu.be | ||
| Ferrisanyoneseenferris |
I seriously never thought I'd own any bike with a effin 'exhaust servo' whatever the hell it does.... | ||
| Hughlysses |
I seriously never thought I'd own any bike with a effin 'exhaust servo' whatever the hell it does.... It controls a valve in the muffler to optimize the back pressure. Compared to the tube frame 1200 Buells, it basically lets the engine develop maximum horsepower (like the X1 and S3) and maximum mid-range torque like the M2. Back to his engine code- OK, now we've got a mystery. The actuator seems to be OK but he's getting a interactive exhaust valve code. My first guess is a wiring or grounding problem. I'd unplug the connector at the actuator and make sure the terminals are clean. Maybe just unplugging it and replugging it will fix it. Check the wires from the actuator back to the ECM for a problem (rubbed-through insulation or a break). Otherwise, all I can suggest is to have the battery tested. Low voltage has been known to cause weird problems but it seems like you'd have trouble cranking the bike if that was it. | ||
| Hughlysses |
On second thought are you certain the actuator rotated all the way? When the problem occurred with mine, the gear at the upper right in your first photo (the partial gear with a separate spring-loaded black piece in the center) was the problem. That gear would collapse under load (note it's not solid like the other gears) and that would let it slip, so it didn't fully open. IIRC, the quadrant on the outside of the actuator should rotate at least a full 90 degrees, maybe a little more. Your actuator is the plastic geared variety; it seems very likely it would be the problem. | ||
| Advoutlander |
I will check the connections. I know for a fact the battery is bad. The actuator fully turned with no issues. I opened the cover to inspect the gears and after I hooked the cable for the muffler valve back on it wont turn. Now if I unhook the cable the actuator turns fine. | ||
| Ourdee |
So, the muffler valve or cable is stuck. | ||
| Advoutlander |
I unplugged the connector at the actuator. They are clean but the harness has some kind of dielectric grease on the connectors. After closer inspection of the black cog piece the spring keeps popping out of its slot, the rear of the spring is scraping the inner lip of the white cog it sits in and there seems to slide up and down the spindle it sits on. Im going to order a replacement servo. | ||
| Hughlysses |
After closer inspection of the black cog piece the spring keeps popping out of its slot, the rear of the spring is scraping the inner lip of the white cog it sits in and there seems to slide up and down the spindle it sits on. That sounds very much like the way mine failed. I think you've found the issue. It may have just happened to work the first time you looked at it but was only sporadically working while you were riding. That would explain the sporadic check engine light. I think you've got it diagnosed now. Congratulations.  | ||
| Advoutlander |
Thanks sir I appreciate everyones help. Finally got tje gas tank empty of the 87 and filled with 91. The bike is running much smoother. Part ordered. | ||
| Uly_man |
The battery. Charge the battery at 1 amp or less. It should hold a 12.7 volt-ish charge off the bike overnight if NOT its toast. If it had any "dead cells" it would not work at all. If the charge drops below 11.1v the ECM will not work right even if the bike is STILL trying to charge it. I have my 06 bikes HD AGM battery and its STILL fine. Not bad since it must be 8 years old now. My 06 bike NEVER started well even with a new battery. The 10 bike is a LOT better but still needs a WELL charged battery to start. These bikes, like most modern bikes and cars, have a small "parasitic" drain which does not help any. It would have been better NOT to have taken the servo apart and they should NEVER be cranked by hand either. It can bust the gears on the early ones. Pull the wire to the can to see if its free if its not the valve is stuck/sticking. "I seriously never thought I'd own any bike with a effin 'exhaust servo' whatever the hell it does". These came about from the old Yams and were called Power valves and did work on them. It MAY help mid range but I found it had NO AFFECT at all on either of my bikes with other cans. I even wired my 06 bikes open and it was fine ie no flat spots. 87 fuel is just a joke and you would be better using Vodka. 91 is better but 94 plus is the thing to use. Thats based on UK octane numbers though. The better the fuel the better and smoother it will run and better MPG as well. Or at least my 06 bike did? You will get a max of 20 miles on reserve (94) but you need to start looking for fuel as soon as the light comes on or before. I found five main things that made my 06 bike a whole lot better and cost very little to do. 1) Better front and rear pads. EBC or SBS. 2) Cleaning the paint off the rear subframe Grounding point. 3) Moving the breather pipes to the positive side of the air box with a cleanable type air filter. 4) Opening up the airbox cover with more holes. 5) Adding a little heavy oil to the front forks. Its just a suggestion but I would be wary of throwing money at the bike unless you are sure it is needed. Best of luck. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
One more thing to check: The cable leading to the muffler. Mine frayed out just above the muffler. Perhaps yours is frayed enough to limit its ability to move all the way? If you disconnect the cable "upstairs", can you pull it like a puppet string without too much drag? | ||
| Advoutlander |
The new battery arrives a few days ago but I was still waiting for the new exhaust servo. I disconnected the cable from the servo and ran with the new battery. Error code 21 has not come back on since. I fitted the new actuator today and the servo moves fully when testing via twisting ro full throttle while the engine is off. However when i revved it through the whole range it dis not move is this normal because the vike knows it is not in motion? | ||
| Tootal |
This is normal. It only opens at certain rpm's with a wot. Revving it without riding it won't open it. You can leave the air box cover off and go ride but about the time it will start to work you really should be looking waaaaay down the road!! | ||
| Advoutlander |
Thanks for clearing that up. Sorry about the grammar mistakes above, I hate using a smart phone to type with, my fingers are too cumbersome. |
