| Author | Message | ||
     Ktmguy |
Its getting cooler here, would it benefit me to run sea foam through the tank before letting it sit for the winter? We occasinaly have a 50-70 degree day here in the winter, so Im assuming at least once every 3 weeks or so it will be out and moving the fluids around. I just dont know all the benefits of sea foam, and what it actually accomplishes, but I see it mentioned here alot! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I've used Seafoam with great success. I use it in all my dead dinosaur burning devices.. I prefer it over Stabil | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I like sea foam as a 3 part cleaning process. I've never used it as a stabilizer. My cleaning process for a bike: Almost 1/2 bottle in a full tank of gas. Almost 1/2 bottle in the oil tank. Ride till that tank is about empty. Use the remaining little bit of seafoam to suck it into the combustion chamber with the engine running a high idle through a vacuum line. Let it idle till it quits smoking, and change the oil, filter, and spark plug, and put in fresh gas. In theory, you've just cleaned the entire fuel system, oil system, and internals of the engine. | ||
| Etennuly |
I am quite satisfied that it is far better than any other advertised fuel injector cleaner. I tested it by soaking a set of injectors in different cleaners. I had four different brand name solutions. It was the only one to work. | ||
| Red450 |
I used seafoam in my 93 Yamaha XJ600, treated the gas, the oil and did the vacuum trick to clean the inside of the jugs. It did wonders, the bike runs better than ever, plus inside the crankcase looks spotless. | ||
| Thejosh |
I use it, but wouldnt reccommend leaving an empty tank over winter. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Seafoam is great for cleaning. Stabil is what you want for storage. In either case, follow the directions. Overdosing is not advisable. | ||
| Towpro |
I used Stabil for years, but switched to this stuff which alcohol fuel came out. http://mystarbrite.com/startron/ | ||
| Red450 |
Has anyone here used vacuum to pull it into the cylinders? Just curious how/if it should be done on these bikes. | ||
| Garrcano |
Mikef5000: ...Use the remaining little bit of seafoam to suck it into the combustion chamber with the engine running a high idle through a vacuum line. Did you mean the vacuum port on right side of the throttle body? The one with the little grommet? | ||
| Garrcano |
Got these days the SeaFoam at home. Which is the best way to get it slowly into the throttle body without the pain of destroying the engine? | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Garrcano de donde has conseguido el SeaFoam (es algo de winns)? | ||
| Hughlysses |
It's funny, a few months I received an e-mail from a motorcycling friend which was allegedly from a chemist who'd analyzed Seafoam and declared it to be worthless. I have firsthand experience with the stuff and I'm convinced it works well. Which is the best way to get it slowly into the throttle body without the pain of destroying the engine? If you can find a small vacuum opening on the throttle body or intake manifold, put a hose on that, put the other end of the hose into the bottle of Seafoam, idle the engine and it'll be sucked in slowly. If you have a steady hand, you can just pour it VERY slowly into the intake with the engine running. If you don't trust yourself, use a pump spray bottle to squirt it into the intake with the engine running. | ||
| Gamdh |
You can always try the Sea foam spray? http://www.seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray.html | ||
| Garrcano |
@Hughlysses: Thanks; I didn't thought about the pump spay bottle. Shame on me. @Gamdh: It's difficult to get it in Spain. I was lucky to found the 'normal' SeaFoam on eBay through a private person. In Spain there are several trademarks like Winns and Krafft, but these products doesn't give the results I'm looking for. | ||
| Argentcorvid |
This website might be of interest to you then. Seafoam is just a mixture of Diesel, naphtha (a common paint stipper), and very pure Isopropyl Alcohol. | ||
| Ftd |
From MSDS Pale Oil 40.00 - 60.00 Naphtha 25.00 - 35.00 IPA 10.00 - 20.00 PALE OIL - straight naphthenic mineral oil, MVI to HVI, straw or pale yellow in color, used as a once-through lubricant and in the formulation of process oils IPA iso propyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) | ||
| Buewulf |
I doubt they use diesel in Seafoam regardless of what the website says (I didn't read it), but the MSDS says "pale oil", which could be any number of products. Air tool oil is probably the most easily accessible pale oil you can get for cheap. In any case, diesel would make a decent substitute assuming you can get the diesel:naptha ratio correct. I'd skip the alcohol. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I would guess that the alcohol is in there to help the two other main ingredients mix together. Perhaps the idea of the alcohol is to grab any water in the fuel line along the way like "Dri-gas"? | ||
| Buewulf |
"I would guess that the alcohol is in there to help the two other main ingredients mix together." My guess is that it is there to absorb water as you postulated with your second thought. We already have too much alcohol in US gasoline, so I wouldn't bother adding more unless your mission is to extract water from the fuel system. I'd think that unless you can find 99%+ pure alcohol (probably what Dri-Gas is) that it would inhibit mixing. | ||
| Argentcorvid |
most of that is covered in the website i linked to. | ||
| Thejosh |
Anhydrous alcohol isn't difficult to find, might be too pricey for what we would be using it for. Back in the day grandpa would put a little deisel in the erl to clean sticky lifters. Nowadays we have seafoam or MMO. | ||
| Midnight_rider |
my grandpa used alittle kerosene in the wash bucket and wash his car | ||
| Thejosh |
Let me guess, his car was orange-ish brown? | ||
| Etennuly |
To "fix" some used cars back in the 60's/70's I recall draining out half the engine oil and bringing it back up to the mark on the stick with diesel fuel. With two gallons of gas in the tank my boss would start the engine and set the idle up to about 1300 or 1400, then close the shop and head home for the evening. We would come back in the morning to a blue haze, every spider and mouse in the shop would be dead. After some gas, an oil change, and battery charge, he would take that car out for a little run. When he got back we changed the oil and filter again, then she would be up for sale. No more smoking, clicking, and ticking, just smooth running. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
".....every spider and mouse in the shop would be dead" Heh! I did this to a softball-sized hornet nest that formed in my parents' shed when I was still living there. (get the bike out fast!) I started up the lawnboy and the homelite trimmer, shut the doors and went in for dinner. Smoke em if you got em! | ||
| Britchri10 |
In my time working as "construction crew" for an asphalt paving crew on the Highways here in sunny Fla we used diesel to remove tar from the cones we had to put out for lane closures. Lovely stuff. (welcome to 1st degree burns!) (BTW) Diesel is essential when making a Molotov cocktail. DAMHIK! Chris C | ||
| Danair |
My Grandpa used to put soluable oil in the radiator to prolong water pump life. | ||
| Towpro |
in the early 80's I had a customer bring me an early corvair that was "barn fresh". Had been sitting for many years and smoked its A#S off. I changed the oil, but added 1 quart of Kerosene and 3 quarts of oil. ran it for a while until warmed up, then he drove it around for 1/2 hour. changed the oil again with fresh oil, smoke went away. Then we learned (from Grumpy Jenkins) that you can take an engine, get it warmed all the way up, open the top of the air cleaner and spray cold water into the air cleaner while holding the throttle open. the cold water hits the hot valves/pistons and head and explodes, removing carbon. |
