| Author | Message | ||
     Zane |
Didn't get a full answer to my air filter question on the Quick Board. I like the idea of a K&N reusable like Sifo suggested but still would like to have a part number until then. Does anybody have a NAPA part number or some decent aftermarket brand? Thanks | ||
| Hughlysses |
The only suppliers I know of besides Buell are K&N and "Uni" (also a reusable filter). It's an odd-shaped filter so I doubt anybody like NAPA (Wix) or Fram makes one. It's a HUGE filter for the size of the engine. If it's visibly clogged up, tap it on a clean, flat surface to dislodge the dust and/or blow it out with an air gun. | ||
| Zane |
I did a visual inspection when I changed the oil and it seemed in pretty good shape. Now that I'm living in Yuma Az, the dust and heat capital of the world, I need to keep a better eye the air filter. I don't have an air compressor any more either. It went away in the divorce. I'm finding it's hard to run a house hold without one. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
The OEM filter is washable. I still use the original and wash it once per year. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
I have 2 stock filters. I wash them in the dishwasher, without the dry cycle. | ||
| Motorbike |
I wash them in the dishwasher, without the dry cycle. Really? If I did that and my wife found out...........  | ||
| Uly_man |
 And is the World still flat? (Message edited by uly_man on October 19, 2012) | ||
| Zane |
Never thought to wash it. I saw it was marked as a "dry element" and stopped the thinking process. I'll give that a go. Thanks Guys | ||
| Uly_man |
"I saw it was marked as a "dry element" and stopped the thinking process." In your part of the world, if you use the bike a lot, I would remove the air filter, bang it on something (to remove the large particals) and then brush it off every month. Maybe change it at 6 months or a year or get a K&N/Piper cleanable type thats what they are for. Just get the service kit to clean them. Easy and on takes 10 Min to do. Ask what the desert riders do with there bikes. The air filter is there to protect the engine. You MUST have seen what air and sand will do to metals etc. (Message edited by uly_man on October 20, 2012) | ||
| Desertjeff |
I bought a used but in perfect shape K&N on ebay for less that 30 bucks delivered. But it is more important to note that removing the air filter allows more dirt to get in than running a dirty air filter does. I am always cautious about removing the filter but also careful not to over service it. I keep an eye on it but in 6000 miles in the last 3 or 4 months I have not had to remove it. | ||
| Ourdee |
If I was back out in the dessert I'd run an OEM filter. Maybe even put some panty hose over it prior to a dust storm.  This is how I run in Illinois. | ||
| Zane |
I borrowed some compressed air and cleaned/reinstalled the existing filter. It wasn't all that dirty, not near what I expected. Next payday, I'll just close my eyes and spend the money for a K&N. | ||
| Luftkoph |
Knowing a little about large diesels desertjeff is right on you most likely let more dirt in when you remove the filter for service. How do you know a filter is dirty with out a restriction gage? you don't,kinda like oil how do you know its time to change it with out analyzing it? exactly you don't. Also paper element filters work better at filtering than the oiled cotton k&n. | ||
| Jcbikes |
Cleaning the stock filter (from another's post and what I did to mine). I filled the sink with warm water with 3/4 cup of liquid washing detergent ( for clothes ). Before immersing the filter I sprayed the filter pleats generously with Shout stain remover. Then set it in the warm sudsy water. Let it sit for about 10 minutes and then swished it around. Then rinsed it clean with warm water directed from the inside out. Came out looking real clean. It's now hanging in our upstairs shower from the shower head and I suspect it will take a good 24 hours to dry. | ||
| Motorbike |
For those of you that are washing your stock filter, how do you know you are not actually damaging the filter by doing so? Maybe some of the filter material breaks down and washes out too. I have always thought that dry filters can only be replaced, not washed but I may be wrong. Is washing approved anywhere in the Owner's or Service Manual? My filter is still clean but I would gladly wash when needed to save $50, as long as the engine is still protected from fine particles. I have also read somewhere that blowing the dust out of a dry filter with compressed air can damage the element. Any thoughts on this? Thanks. | ||
| Buewulf |
The paper element is very stout, but I don't know whether or not repeated washing and / or compressed air treatment breaks it down or not. I decided not to risk it as I have seen large diesels suck in pieces of paper element on filters that had been washed (not an uncommon maintenance practice in 3rd-world shops). I opted to buy the $55 K&N over the $50 OEM replacement. It just doesn't seem that expensive considering. | ||
| Uly_man |
The basic answer to all of this is that the OEM air filter IS NOT designed to be cleaned. Remember it is protecting the engine from damage. If you really do need a new one fit a K&N. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Uly_man, It's a tough filter and can easily be cleaned. I've cleaned these types of filters over the decades I've been riding. With your way of thinking, every time you'd ride in the rain and your filter gets soaked it would be time to replace it. What is wrong with soaking it in warm soapy water and then back flushing out the debris, absolutely nothing. I'm still using the same filter my ULY came equipped with and it certainly has no holes in it and works as intended. I've got a K&N on my Electraglide because it has a stage 2 kit and it was required. From day one you could look closely at it and see daylight through it. Not the OEM Buell filters though. Not even after washing it at least 5 times. I've ridden with nothing but 10% ethanol and there are folks here that would say it's bad for the bike. Everybody has their opinions. | ||
| Uly_man |
EG I have the greatest respect for you and I AM NOT "having a go" at what you or other people do with there bikes. I, on the other hand, go along with Luftkoph because part of my work involves air filtration on machines/engines. I am NOT GOING to get all "mobi" on anyones ass on this so I will just pass on a good tip on the issue, if it will help any. If you find that the INNER side of your paper air filter is dark thats because it is now past its, a very rough region of testing, tested point and past its design point IE the filter is toast. Take care Guys. | ||
| Yogi0013 |
I'm new to the forum but I'll throw in my two cents. I bought a 03 dodge diesel once that had the engine replaced because the last guy cheaped out and didn't install a proper filter. Seems like one of the easiest decisions. Spend the money on a decent filter and save the internals. | ||
| Billy_bee |
K&N filter is supposed to be washed w/ soap and water. I don't think compressed air is a good idea. If too high pressure, it can tear the gauze fabric in the filter. It is also supposed to be oiled. It is the oil that traps the bad stuff, not the see-through gauze material. When I was racing, I would clean the filter and NOT oil it for increased dirt, um, I mean air flow. What the heck, I was doing frequent engine rebuilds anyhow... | ||
| Uly_man |
"K&N filter is supposed to be washed w/ soap and water". You can do but all you need is the K&N service pack. It has the right cleaner and the right oil to service the air filter. It lasts for ages. I bought mine about 15 years ago and still have some oil left. It does not cost much either. Do not get me wrong I am all for saving money and love nothing better but a clean engine is a happy engine. I have seen the results of bad air filtration on mechanical parts in my work. Not good at all. |
