| Author | Message | ||
     Orangeulius |
Since I bought my used 08 Uly, I have had a series of cascading problems centered around the exhaust system. First I had the HD dealer replace a bad exhaust valve actuator. Then I found the front exhaust strap was missing and replaced it. Then the exhaust bolt that holds the front clamp to the engine took a vacation. I replaced it and it broke today. I replaced it while on the road with a spare bolt. On the way home my bike got really loud and I could tell I lost back pressure. I rode it conservatively home only to find the rear exhaust manifold where it attaches to the engine had come loose. The nuts are missing and it is off the engine bolts. So my guess is that one of the previous owners had some work done that required the engine be rotated. I'm currently just under 15000 miles. I'm assuming they did a shoddy job putting it back together. At this point, I want to rotate it out so I can not only fix the current problem, but check the torque and status of all the nuts and bolts that could cause future problems. Maybe change the plugs while I'm there. Has anyone had this done by a dealer and if so how much was it? I'm going to start reading up to see what it will take to do it myself realizing its no small project. Thoughts, recommendations? Thanks in advance for any help. Other than this issue the bike runs strong. | ||
| Hughlysses |
It's not nearly as bad of a job as you'd think. E-mail Al at American Sport Bike for a list of tips that make the job easier and quicker and that will help you avoid a repeat of the exhaust issues | ||
| Bpt |
I just finished the job on my 08. Time consuming the first time but not hard. I gave myself 2 days to get it done. I really recommend the service manual. I followed it step by step. The only thing different I can tell you that I learned is it is easier to disconnect the injector wiring once the motor is rotated down about 2 inches and remove both side footpeg mounts. Other than that it was by the book. | ||
| Uly_man |
I know that you have to rotate the engine to remove the headers but do you need to do it to access the rear header nuts. If you can I would try to re-aline the headers in the correct position first. Just a thought. | ||
| Weecorey |
Excuse my lack of terminology but what is 'Rotating the engine'? | ||
| Orangeulius |
According to the official factory manual "the process allows you to rotate the engine down,pivoting on the rear isolator mount, in order to service components in the top end." page 3.8. While I might be able to replace the nuts without doing this, I have to rotate it in order to get the proper torque on them. Thanks for the feedback guys. I feel better about doing it now. | ||
| Weecorey |
Ahh, in Ireland we call that dropping the engine! You really have to do this to replace the headers? I was thinking of up grading my headers on my 08 XT but it seems a lot of hassle now! | ||
| Razz |
Here is a link to a great pictorial on how to do this.http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Do-It-Yourse lf-Buell-Mods/How-to-Rotate-your-engine--With-Pics Don't mean to recommend another site but this seems very helpful | ||
| Orangeulius |
Weecorey, take a look at the link Razz just posted. On page 2 there is a link to a YouTube video with an alternate and seemingly easier way. I think I'll still go by the manual but this might work for you. Razz, thanks for the link! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Rotating the engine looks bad when you read all the steps. And even when you do it, it kinda feels like you are doing a million different little fussy steps. Then you look at the clock, and realized it's like half an hour after you started the job, and the motor is completely rotated and you have incredibly easy access to everything, and you think "why do I always think this is such a big deal". | ||
| Reepicheep |
Oh, and Orange, I would definitely rotate the engine and give everything a nice going over on that exhaust path, re torquing and checking everything. Hopefully you didn't break a stud already. If you did, do yourself a favor and get the $100 overpriced Jims tool. | ||
| Weecorey |
Cheers for that, the video looks an easier option. | ||
| Dr_greg |
Having rotated the engine on my '06 a time or two (the old-timers here will attest to that), my only caution is that (depending on how far you tear things down): there is a definite "sequence" to re-assembly. No big deal, just note what you are doing. Good luck. --Doc | ||
| Orangeulius |
Reepicheep, it looks like the studs are ok. One of the reasons I want to do this is exactly what you said, to give everything a good once over. Weecorey, let us know how things go if you use the simplified process. Dr_greg, I couldn't agree more. Things always go faster during the deconstruction phase and the reconstruction is always encumbered by, "now where does this go" moments. I'm going to have at least one friend look over my shoulder. | ||
| Orangeulius |
Well, the good news is that I got the engine lowered with some help from one of my riding buddies. The bad news is that the upper stud on the rear cylinder is sheared off. Guess I'll start searching for the best way to handle this. On a related note, how do you get the old exhaust gaskets out? The old ones are really tore up and I'd appreciate any recommendations on this. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Glad to hear you got that far with it. The best way to handle the sheared exhaust stud (according to numerous posts I've seen here) is one of these: http://www.jpcycles.com/product/440-266 I didn't see it listed at American Sport Bike but Al may have them or be able to get them. Alternatively you may be able to find a Badwebber who'll loan you the tool. You can get the old gaskets out with a small screwdriver or O-ring pick. They're apparently made of something like lead poured over a wire mesh core. They'll easily collapse if you can catch an edge and then you can lever or pull them out. I caught hell getting the new ones back in, so I'm not sure of the best technique for that. | ||
| Al_lighton |
here: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16029.html Don't try to do the job without the tool. It almost invariably ends badly. Al | ||
| Orangeulius |
Thanks Hugh. Looks like I can get Jims tool at Amazon for $91.00. Thanks for the quick post. | ||
| Hughlysses |
See Al's update above, American Sport Bike does have it. You can also order the gaskets, a new stud, and some nifty stainless steel nuts while you're there. | ||
| Orangeulius |
Yep. I'll get it from Al. Thanks for the link. Loyalty counts and Al has always been a great help. Done deal. | ||
| Orangeulius |
Should I replace my remaining existing studs with new ones? I'm thinking they may be weakened. Whether I could get them out is another question. | ||
| Tootal |
Just don't try to pull it out till the broken one is fixed!  The tool won't work unless one of them is good! | ||
| Griffmeister |
Replace the plugs now. This will be the easiest time you will ever have doing them. Also a good time to check the rocker box gaskets. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Should I replace my remaining existing studs with new ones" yes but as Tootal said. All nuts, seals, etc on the exhaust system as its a false economy not to do so. Put it all back together right and you should have no further problems. | ||
| Orangeulius |
Thanks for all the suggestions. I've got plugs in hand and the rest of the parts are coming from american sportbike. I'm lucky to live near ETennUly. Vern is great at this stuff and will be helping me on Saturday. Now I have to kludge it back together for a trailer ride to Vern's. | ||
| Etennuly |
I plan to get a magnifying glass on the remaining studs for a close examination. If they are not bent or cracked there should be no reason to remove them. After all, have you not ever broken off a perfectly good stud to change it "just because"?  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Good plan. If it ain't broken, don't risk breaking it trying to fix it.  | ||
| Al_lighton |
Personally, I'd replace them. The studs can be fatigued and you won't see that with the magnifying glass. I'd be much more secure in knowing that the studs are all good. If they do break while removing them, they were probably going to break on the bike when running it anyway, and then you get to start the job all over again from scratch. | ||
| Rr_eater |
Hey, is it just me, or does Al sound like he's done this once or twice.......... | ||
| Orangeulius |
I think he's probably done it or walked people through it more times than he cares to remember. I've got to give credit to Al. He took the time to call me, review my order, and even told me of a part I really didn't need. Now that's service! Thanks Al. |
