| Author | Message | ||
     Hughlysses |
I wanted to start a new thread to continue this discussion: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/626029.html A lot of riders have noticed that their pre-load adjuster for the rear shock loses adjustment as time goes on. For most bikes, when new, it takes about 4 turns (8 clicks) before you feel resistance on the adjuster. My bike now takes 6 turns (12 clicks) before I feel any resistance. This would seem to indicate that when you've got the adjuster maxed out, it's not putting as much pre-load on the rear shock as it did when new. I was all set to try re-filling mine this afternoon until I looked at it closely. The adjuster is mounted considerably lower than the piston assembly at the top of the rear shock. I'd think you want to have the adjuster higher than the shock when you attempt the refill procedure. If you break the hose connection at the adjuster with it low, I think you'd lose even more oil and make the problem worse. With the comfort kit installed, there's no easy way to get at the top of the shock without removing it. I guess I'll wait until I've got more time to tear the back of the bike apart so I can move the adjuster and/or shock to get things oriented properly before attempting a re-fill. I was just wondering what others had done that did this? Did you just disconnect the adjuster and temporarily plug the hose to prevent fluid loss while you refilled the adjuster? I'm just wondering if there's a reasonable way of doing this without tearing the back of the bike apart. BTW- the "how to" links (one was from a BMW forum) on the earlier thread are both dead. If anyone knows of a good pictorial on the refill process, please post up. | ||
| Garrcano |
...With the comfort kit installed, there's no easy way to get at the top of the shock without removing it. ... ...I was just wondering what others had done that did this?... Exactly now one year ago I stood in front of my bike with the same problem. The only way I saw, was dismounting the undertray (trunk pan). If you're lucky and gain access to the trunk pan screws, you don't need to dismount completely the battery holder, but it's not easy as you have to flex a little the trunk pan. If I have to do it again, I'd dismount the battery holder completely; more time but less stress. | ||
| Uly_man |
Fix the leak as well. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Lay the bike on its side. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Lay the bike on its side. Ha! Great idea, and it should work fine. | ||
| Bikelit |
That comfort kit panel - I cut mine in half at the top. I remove the 2 top bolts on the sub-frame and swing it down about an inch and pull the cut panels out (unbolt reservoir bracket). When re-installed, I run a piece of electrical tape to hold together. I considered a fancy center attachment but the tape has worked fine for years. I tried a few different shock lengths and was not willing to yank everything apart for every change. It now takes minutes access the top shock mount. |
