| Author | Message | ||
     Pontlee77 |
Hi, I went back to the stock 6 piston caliper, witch is the best way to bleed it correctly? with out using any pumping device. Thanks, | ||
| Tootal |
I put a piece of hose on the bleed screw and run it into a container. Pump your brake lever until you feel pressure then hold it down and crack open the bleed screw until the brake lever is touching the grip then lock the bleed screw. Build up pressure again and repeat. Once you quit seeing air bubbles in your hose then you should be good. However, there is usually some trapped air at every banjo bolt connection. I like to put a rag around the connection, put pressure on the line and crack the connection and allow any air to bleed out. This will usually complete your bleeding and you should have a firm lever. If the lever is still mushy then ride it a while and get everything hot. The heat and vibration might shake some trapped air back out in the open and you can bleed the system again, just as before. | ||
| Uly_man |
Do what Tootal says but this as well after. You will still find some VEEEEERY small bubbles in the system. Bike on sidestand with full left hand lock. Pull back the lever and let it "flick back" hard. This will dislodge the bubbles in the line and the banjo. You should see them coming up from/through the master cylinder piston. Keep doing it until no more bubbles can be seen. It takes about 5 or 6 times. I have done this a number of times with the Uly and it works perfect. | ||
| Ratbuell |
My final step is to always cinch the lever to the grip (twist tie, velcro, whatever), and loosen the screws on the master cylinder lid. Do NOT remove the lid, just break the seal. Leave it sit overnight like that. It allows any air bubbles in the line to rise, and exit. Tighten the cover, cut your tie strap, and enjoy  | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Yesterday morning i left without the lid, during the night i wigled and and moved the brake line to get the last bubbles of air out, once done i put the lid, pumped and bleeded the caliper a few times once done i filled the top box and tomorrow time to try, thanks for the help. | ||
| Andymnelson |
itzabich. Best $8.5/wheel you can spend on a Buell: http://www.amazon.com/Goodridge-Speed-Bleeder-1-25 -SB8125/dp/B000WJ2SYK | ||
| Pontlee77 |
tried the bike out on one of my favourite twisties, now i feel much safer, i need less leverage and get a good progresion on th braking, i even had the chance to see what the brake was up to when a car shot out in front of me, saw my self crashing but fortunatelly i braked hard the rear wheel skidded a bit that made me avoid the car did a tight turn the rear wheel skidded just a bit and i avoided the car, i guess there was a bit of luck and instinct handling. | ||
| Uly_man |
I have had many a bike and changed more fluid on pad changes than I can think of but just a simple 5 USD brake fluid flush/change on the front really works well on this bike. Do it at 10k or less. | ||
| Froggy |
 I had my CR in the shop, the mechanic recommended I do the front brake fluid, as it was cheap and easy. I'm not sure if it was the RBF-600 fluid he used or my old fluid was just that bad, but it made a hell of a difference! | ||
| Uly_man |
It just worked for me is all I can say. One of the things I found on this bike is that it is a "tight" bike. It likes/needs its good bearings and good fluids. It also like/needs to be rode hard/well. |
