| Author | Message | ||
     Molalla_uly |
I was Riding in montana on vacation doing 75 down the highway The bearing went out it messed up the rear wheel the Harley dealership said a new rim is on back order till August 15th at the best does anyone have any ideas can the wheel be fixed with some machine work and a steel sleeve? any ideas want to get the beast back on the road Coming home in a u haul sucked!!!! | ||
| Debueller |
Here is a guy parting out a Uly: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/21/ 686676.html?1342179447 I'd like to have the rear tire, and it sounds like you could use the wheel. Maybe we can work something out....... (Message edited by debueller on July 13, 2012) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
American Sport Bike sells the 2010 improved rear wheels. they can install the bearings for you too. Put one in and don't look back! | ||
| Reepicheep |
To answer your original question, I would think a local machinist ought to be able to tell you if there is enough material left to machine out room and insert a steel collar. I don't have a wheel in front of me to look at and speculate, but in general there isn't a lot of unnecessary material on a motorcycle wheel, so I would not be surprised if the answer is no. If it were me, and I was on a road trip, and had a failure that chewed up the rear wheel... I might toy with the idea of cleaning up the burrs, getting a new bearing, packing it with grease, cleaning the bearing seat really well, slathering JB Weld (not JB Quick) around the *outside* of the outside race, and pressing it into the wheel. Filling in any visible gaps with more JB weld until it sealed. Then let it cure laying flat for at least 12 hours. It would be a fix to get me by until the new wheel came, at which point the old wheel becomes a clock or something. But it might get me home and falls into the category of something I might be able to pull off in the front parking lot of an auto parts store. | ||
| Xbkris |
How many miles on that wheel bearing? Man, hate to see that. I would be upset to say the least. | ||
| Buelldualsport |
Al is currently out of 2010 wheels and the bearings and axles for the 2010 are on National Backorder. | ||
| Molalla_uly |
I have put about 10000 miles on the bike since I have had it | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Mine went out a bit over 20k miles, and scarred up the inside of the wheel. I was still able to tap a new bearing in, and it worked fine for me for the rest of the ride (8000 miles). How bad is the wheel? If I were in the middle of a trip and the wheel was so bad the new bearing was loose, I'd do exactly what Reepi suggested. Another option, if you lucked into being in a big city with the issue, find a bearing manufacturer/distributor/retailer, and try to find one with the same inside dimension, with one size larger outside dimension. | ||
| Blake |
What Reep said, and add the green Loctite 620 or 638 or 668 or the similar Permatex products instead to the list with epoxy. | ||
| Tootal |
I agree with Blake. Green loctite is designed just for that purpose. Just make sure the outer race of the bearing is oil free. Use brake cleaner or alcohol to clean the bore in the wheel and the bearing. Put some loctite in the bore and drop the bearing in. If there's any gaps then add some more loctite to fill them up. That stuff works great! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Cool! I love McGyver lessons here... | ||
| Motoroilmccall |
Just don't leave it like that... That's what local bike dealer did to mine when they hammered the bearing in the wheel and opened up the hub journal for the wheel bearing... I had to buy a 2010 wheel and supporting parts because I rode the bike thinking that there were no problems. The green loctite isn't permanent by any means. The outer race spun inside the wheel and chewed it up bad. Couldn't be sleeved and re-used, and the dealer that f'ed it up refused to pay for anything... Thank you Bob Weaver, I caught your "Weaver Fever" and it cost me more then $500 to get rid of it!!! | ||
| Buelldualsport |
Ouch |
