| Author |
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Etennuly
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2012 - 10:59 am: | 
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I would be looking at a clogged fuel filter or pick up screen. That is why I asked for mileage.
I had mine out at about 35,000 and things were really dirty in there.
This would also not be a cause a code to flash. |
Kvdog
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2012 - 04:36 pm: |
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Thanks, will check on that as well. |
Kvdog
| | Posted on Monday, July 23, 2012 - 09:25 am: |
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Problem resolved. The bundle of wires that passes, along with the throttle cables, through the collar below and behind the headlight assembly was rubbed bare--I'm guessing from handlebar movement. Anybody use anything besides electrical tape for a repair here? Should have spent more time looking for electrical shorts before buying a new battery and ECM, but the ECM was showing damage from the seat, so it may have failed anyway at some point. Thanks again for all of the input! |
Mark_weiss
| | Posted on Monday, July 23, 2012 - 11:37 am: |
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Did anyone mention the crankshaft position sensor?
That problem came up with a friend's bike on a group ride. The bike would start cutting out and losing power when hot. Every time we'd stop we would spend some quality roadside time staring at the bike, then it would magically run again, for a while....
On one of the stops the ignition trigger cover was removed for some reason (looking for a pinched wire?) Anyway, the bike was restarted with the cover off and we noticed that it kept running. Off we rode and there were no further problems. Next day, with the cover back on, the problem returned, so we took the cover off and left it that way. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, July 23, 2012 - 01:27 pm: |
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Three things...
I had that same problem with the wire bundle. It was caused by me wedging too much stuff under the flyscreen, which blocked the top part of that bundle, and caused it to flex over a shorter length every time I swept the bars right to left. I fixed the shorts, and unencumbered the whole floating length of that bundle.
I like this kind of cable armor:
http://www.amazon.com/Install-Split-Loom-Inch-Foot /dp/B005V9UU1O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1343063893&s r=8-4&keywords=split+loom+tubing
Hard plastic split loom stuff, you can get it at any auto parts store or at Harbor Freight in different sizes and colors. I install it, and use cable ties to hold it closed. It's survived in some pretty harsh environments.
When you do the TPS reset, make SURE you reversed the idle adjustment all the way out (lefty loosey). Then to the TPS adjustment, then reset idle.
A bad cam position sensor will either fail when hot and just be dead (like Mark described), or will be hit and miss causing the bike to loose all power, then come back on with a cylinder full of fuel, making quite the backfire. :0
You could test the "totally dead" CPS scenario by rotating the back wheel in 5th gear with the kill switch on "run" and listening for the fuel pump to cycle during the rotation. If it cycles, the CPS saw the motor turn. If you can rotate it and it never cycles, you likely have a dead CPS. Similarly, ECMSpy shows you the state (0v or 5v) for the CPS, but at only 9600 baud it would be very difficult to spot transient failures (how mine initially was failing). But a cheap $100 storage scope showed me clearly the "missed" squarewaves. I think it had been flakey for a while now, the bike runs stronger and with less sputtering.
Also look at how your throttle cables are routed under the airbox base. They should be under that wire bundle, not over it. They will saw through it as well. |
Kvdog
| | Posted on Monday, July 23, 2012 - 02:59 pm: |
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Great points--thanks. We'll see how we do with the cable armour. Hopefully that will do the trick. |
Kvdog
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 03:20 pm: |
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Once I got into the wire bundle where I suspected shorting to take place, I found that the wrap was in pretty rough shape, but no bare wires were exposed. What I did find was a single wire in the middle of the bundle that was broken with intact insulation, so it looked fine on the outside but a tiny break could be felt if you squeezed the wire. Wire damaged during the build? It wasn't kinked or externally damaged in any way I could see. Turned out to be a rather expensive single strand of broken wire. |
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