| Author | Message | ||
     Barryt |
What is the preferred method for putting them in. Ive been reading here some say a socket is fine some use the old bearing and some say build a threaded press. Generally what is accepted as being a fairly easy and safe way to put them in? (Message edited by barryt on July 10, 2012) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
You have to be very careful and follow the manual to the letter. Generally, I recall that one side's bearing is installed first since it is mounted all the way in then the spacer and then the other side. the other side isn't bottomed in, just down to the spacer. It's really touchy and I don't think you can just tap them in with a socket. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Check the "New Owner's" topics thread (tiny link at the top of the Big, Bad, and Dirty page) for the wheel bearing thread with more info. Meanwhile, here is Al Lighton's comprehensive comments on the subject:
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| Barryt |
I shall build a tool then to press the bearing in. Thanks for the help. Barry | ||
| Etennuly |
The factory guys do not use the heat method. That makes sense. They have new parts going in a new wheel with proper presses, and they are only going to do it one time each, to one wheel. Keep in mind they do not have to take anything apart. We on the other hand are trying to preserve the wheel, reuse/refit parts, use non factory tooling, and keep it safe and preserved because our asses and money are on the seat. Therefore I still believe the heat method is the best way to remove and reseat bearings. It does so without scarring, damaging or otherwise over sizing the hub's surfaces that the bearing races friction fits into. I install the left(rotor) side first to it's seat bottom. Then with a cooled bearing and heated rim, I install the right(pulley) side, if heated properly the bearing will nearly fall into place. I lightly tap the inner race into alignment with the spacer using a hardwood board that is about a half inch thick by three inches wide, by about a foot and a half long. I use the length of it to watch for the square of the bearing to the wheel. It goes in so easily I use an eight ounce hammer to tap the board. When the temperatures of the bearing and hub equalize, it is locked into place with no scarring damage to the hub's aluminum center. | ||
| Nillaice |
good to know that the rotor side bearing is seated against the rim. i would have thought that the pulley side bearing would need to be, since it is the one that seems to fail and what not i would agree on cooling the bearing prior to installation. mechanically speaking; it just makes sense to me. that's what i'll do when the time comes. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thats close to what I was thinking Etennuly. Except instead of tapping, I would probably use aluminum plates (got the harbor freight bearing press kit, which I would not recommend, but that I'll use since I have them) with a threaded rod through the middle to finish seating that inner race... So use the heat method, put the threaded rod and bearings and plates all in the deep freeze overnight, heat the wheel, and zip it all snug with an electric nut driver on very low torque. Freezing the plates along with the bearing will help them stay cool longer to be seated with less stress. (Message edited by reepicheep on July 10, 2012) | ||
| Barryt |
So I need seat the pulley side bearing by applying force to the outer and inner race correct? | ||
| 7873jake |
Uhhhm,....the heat-the-wheel, freeze-the-bearing method makes the bearing fall in to place so easily that I felt over-prepared for the exercise with threaded rod and plates at the stand-by. I realize "YMMV", and other extenuating factors can impact this but I was duly dumbfounded at how utterly uncomplicated the process, and how simple. | ||
| Al_lighton |
related discussion over on the XB board here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/686363.html?1341885554#POST2239817 | ||
| Etennuly |
Uhhhm,....the heat-the-wheel, freeze-the-bearing method makes the bearing fall in to place so easily that I felt over-prepared for the exercise with threaded rod and plates at the stand-by. My point exactly. When I say I "tapped" on the board to align the races it is meant to say "lightly" and mostly just to check the seating and alignment. | ||
| Uly_man |
Buell wheel bearings should ONLY be fitted with "Odins Hammer", HD part number #21077265ARSE, and so drunk you could care less? | ||
| Joypipe |
Next time I do my bearings I'm going to build a threaded press tool. I found a folded over paper towel roll did an awesome job holding the spacer and bearings all in a proper alignment. | ||
| Barryt |
Well here are the old ones. The new ones are on ice for 24hours. I was suprised at the difference between the two.  | ||
| Barryt |
The spacer has a few rough marks on the inside. It doesn't appear to be out if round or compromised in anyway. I still should be able to use it right? local dealership doesn't have it and it will take too long to arrive. they said a week and I leave Saturday. | ||
| Etennuly |
As long as it has it's ends square as originally intended a few scratches won't hurt anything. The spacer's job is to fit between the inner bearing races so that when the axle is tightened the torque from the one side passes equally through the other side without misaligning or side loading the bearings. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Dang, good thing you pulled them. That's a lot of rust, those bearings were not long for this world. The outside and inside of the spacer doesn't matter, just the two ends. I wouldn't cancel a trip over not having a replacement, but in general if you don't know the history of the bike you own and aren't sure nobody ever over torqued on install, I'd recommend you spend the $30 and replace the spacer just for peace of mind. (But I didn't. I just carry it along on trips with spare bearings in my side bag in case a bearing fails, which they haven't, and check the bearings with every tire change, and they have been good so far). | ||
| Pons |
I have an '08 and replaced both rear wheel bearing today as well before my trip back east. | ||
| Barryt |
Both of mine are in. They didnt go in as easy as I thought they would. I froze the bearings for a day and put a torch on the hubs but still required a fair amount of force to get them in. They both went in though. Took a bit to slowly work the bearing in so the inner race rested evenly on the spacer but it looks good and is back on the bike. Now on to putting front brake pads in. | ||
| Etennuly |
When heating the hub, it works great with a heat gun that will reach 1050 degrees F. It takes quit a bit of heat even having the bearings frozen. I spend probably five minutes per side moving the heat source around continuously to keep from scorching or blistering the paint. I don't know exactly how hot I get it, but I cannot touch it with a bare hand. My rims are urethane painted over the powder coating. I have not damaged the paint with heating to get an easy fit, but I would not use an open flame torch. Taking off the rotor and pulley uses less heat, as they act as heat sinks pulling the heat away from the intended center bub area. This has let the bearings nearly push in with just the force from my fingers. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Also, there is freezing (kitchen freezer) and FREEZING (garage chest freezer). I do the chest freezer thing. Next time I think I'll try packing them in dry ice. Not because it's necessary, but because I am jonsing to play with dry ice. Have you heard what it does when you put it in a 2 litre bottle 1/4 full of water, put the lid on, and run away?  | ||
| Buelldualsport |
BOOM | ||
| Etennuly |
 | ||
| Barryt |
Yep  | ||
| Buelldualsport |
Actually BOOM and Oh Chit look at that! | ||
| Reepicheep |
"here come the cops!" | ||
| Buelldualsport |
ALL of this should have been prefaced by : "Hey ya'll watch this" | ||
| Davis_bueller |
I've done the rear twice and the front once. Not because they failed but because so many others did.The first time I brought the wheel to the dealer.The last two i did myself with the harbor freight inside bearing puller for removal.And a hydraulic press and the old bearing as a pusher.No heat,no cold,just slow and steady. |
