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Author Message   Desmo900 Posted on Monday, July 09, 2012 - 01:00 am:        my buddy rode over to my house to change his oil, as we drained the primary the oil was jet black and had a strong burned smell to it. He had at the local Harley shop about 1000 miles ago for a check up and they adjusted the clutch. I checked the play at the clutch lever and it was very tight with no play at all. We replaced the Formula+ and adjusted the clutch per the factory manual, and it seems fine. But should we replace the clutch?   Bluex Posted on Monday, July 09, 2012 - 01:13 am:        Burnt smell could be from the stator!   Rwven Posted on Monday, July 09, 2012 - 07:14 am:        Mine smelled like that last primary change also. I also had suspicious looking bits on the drain plug and in the oil...some magnetic and some not.   Tootal Posted on Monday, July 09, 2012 - 06:34 pm:        Grab some wide open throttle at lower rpms and see if you get any slippage. No slip, you're good to go. The stator will stink if it's going!   Ratbuell Posted on Monday, July 09, 2012 - 09:02 pm:        +1 on stator. Put a voltmeter on it and ride. I have a Kuryakyn LED meter on my front master cylinder, wired to gauge lighting. Constant monitoring, very nice.   Danair Posted on Monday, July 09, 2012 - 09:05 pm:        Formula + smells like burnt clutch right out of the bottle. Fwiw   Desmo900 Posted on Monday, July 09, 2012 - 09:08 pm:        I punched it several times in a high load situation and it didnt slip at all. So it might be the stator then. I did notice the check engine light is staying on. will the battery still show good voltage if the stator is going out?   Natexlh1000 Posted on Tuesday, July 10, 2012 - 06:24 am:        "Formula + smells like burnt clutch right out of the bottle." Yeah it's pretty stinky but it doesn't turn black under normal tranny use. the battery voltage should be good at idle and go up just slightly when revved to 2000 RPM. I suggest you install a voltmeter at least for a short term just to make sure. Sometimes the stator can crap out in a way that kills the regulator so perhaps it would be a good idea to perform the stator checks as listed in the service manual. Here is the TL;DR version: Each winding should be very low resistance. All windings should float with respect to the chassis ground. With the engine running, each winding should put out a good amount of AC volts like 30 or so. I hope the solution is cheap!

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