| Author | Message | ||
     Pons |
I'm getting ready for a trip to South Carolina from TX. Now that the ECM is ironed out and working well I'm thinking of changing rear wheel bearing before I leave. I searched here for some info but want to know if there is a aftermarket bearing better then the one Buell used? Also should I change bearing on pully also? Bike has 8600miles on it. I'd like to get a '10 wheel but just bought ECM so cash a little short  | ||
| Hughlysses |
James- Early on in the rear wheel bearings discussion we thought changing to a European-sourced bearing like SKF (some SKF bearings, NOT all) would be a smart move. However, as far as I've seen here, there have been just as many failures with those bearings as with bearings from China and similar locations. I think the most critical factor is installing the bearings in the wheel correctly and then torquing the axle correctly. A new Swiss-made SKF bearing installed incorrectly will fail much faster than a cheap Chinese bearing installed perfectly. That said, I'd get either the latest OEM bearings made by KBC from your dealer made by KBC (they have black seals, not orange), SKF bearings (made in Europe if you can find them, the country of origin is marked on the bearings or box), or Koyo bearings (made in Japan). About the best insurance is to get an extra set so that if you have a problem on the road you could limp in to a shop and get them changed. Also check the rear wheel bearing thread in the "new owners" section for additional info: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/442488.html?1340027041 | ||
| Buewulf |
I agree with everything Hughlysses said. Check your bearings to see if they are in good condition. If they are, do as Hugh said and just bring spares. If your bearings are good, I personally think that removing / replacing them and remounting the wheel may give you a higher probability of failure due to possible installation errors. | ||
| Billy_bee |
I think this is all good advice, but I am wondering how to best check the bearings when the rear wheel is mounted to the bike? There is enough resistance/tension from the belt that it is hard to tell if the bearings are bad. Is there something I am missing? I usually check them when the rear wheel is off. If the inner races spin too freely or if there is any sort of notchiness, I replace them. So, they get checked every 5k or so when the bike gets a new rear tire. | ||
| Pons |
So I'm looking at the shop manual for rear wheel removal and bearing replacement and it says not to reuse sprocket screws. I have to order new screws before I can safely do this??????????? | ||
| Hughlysses |
I'm pretty sure you don't have to remove the sprocket to change the bearings. I'm sure I didn't. If you decide to anyway, people have reused the bolts without a problem. Just clean the threads and apply fresh red Locktite prior to reinstalling. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I guess it would be pretty easy to just remove the belt with the wheel still in place to check the bearings. I just do it whenever I change a tire, and look for visible symptoms in the meantime. When I go on long trips I pack along spare bearings and a new spacer. The best bearings are any ones installed as described in the service manual... FWIW. | ||
| Pons |
Thats good news, I'm just gonna buy a new bearing and take it with me. My bearing and spacer look good | ||
| Desertjeff |
Hey there anybody know what the number on the bearing is? I would like to buy them from my local bearing house. Probably go with Koyo's. Unless the boys there have a better idea. | ||
| Pons |
Hughlysses put this up, probably contains all the answers about part #'s ect. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/442488.html?1340027041 | ||
| Pons |
Picked up spares today. I got the black seal Korean wheel bearing (KoYO?) and went ahead and bought a voltage regulator. I also have a spare fuel pump and ECM to help limp in somewhere to fix bike if nescessary. I feel better now | ||
| Andymnelson |
Properly installed, the bearings will not give you trouble...BE SURE you understand the process, most people do not....not even techs. If you are going to carry spares, you'd best have a new spacer too. Chances are, if your bearings go out, you'll need a new spacer. I suggest pulling the wheels before your trip and feeling the bearings. | ||
| Tiltcylinder |
The bearing on the left side of my '09, disintegrated last June at about 12K. I had recently replaced the tire (500 miles beforehand?), the bearings looked and felt fine. Second time I'd swapped rubber, so I knew and followed the procedure. I do this stuff for a living... There was little or no warning... very windy day, bike 'wiggled' once, then twice... stopped to check the air in the tire. Resumed riding without thinking it was the bearings. Ten miles further on, protected from the wind in a valley... wiggled again, as I stopped to check, the rear wheel went 'klunk klunk'... the rotor bolts hitting the caliper bracket. The outer race had exploded, spacer tube damaged. Got a ride for the bike and I, picked up bearings at a Harley dealer... only 100 miles away, installed new bearings with a makeshift punch and hammer, rode the 500 or so miles home the next day. Made my dealer install a '10 wheel... two days before the warranty ran out! The bike lounged at the dealer for 9 weeks waiting for a wheel to be available. In a barn with a car scissor jack and the tools I brought, the whole process took an hour and a half. I agree with Andy, if you're going to bring bearings... bring a spacer too! With my trashed spacer... every tar snake felt like the rear wheel was going to fall off... in my mind at least. Checked when I arrived home and there was no play, the bearings weren't even warm... figures. Bring a nice 1/2" steel rod, long enough to drive out the bearings, and you should have no trouble replacing them on the side of the road somewhere... | ||
| Motorbike |
Tiltcylinder, when your bearing failed, did it damage the wheel at all? I am only asking because when mine went out, the dealer would only replace the bearing and spacer under warranty because the wheel was not damaged. I guess I stopped too soon. At that point, I forked out the money for the 2010 wheel and axle so I wouldn't have to deal with this again. They gave me a discount on the wheel and I paid full price for the axle, seals, bearings etc. I put it all together myself and so far, no problems. Thanks. | ||
| Tleighbell |
Where can I get instalation procedure for the 2010 wheel? I have a 2006 manual for my 2006 Uly. | ||
| Froggy |
Wheel removal and installation is the same, you only need the directions if installing the bearings. If you want the detailed directions, look here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/bulletins/20 10RearWheel.pdf | ||
| Tiltcylinder |
Motorbike, the outside of the wheel near the bearing was a bit mangled, mostly just cosmetic. I would have trailered the bike home if the area where the bearing sat was damaged. In a real pinch, I'd try the green bearing set loctite or even JBweld the bearing in place. It wasn't that bad. I was annoyed with my self for not immediately checking the bearings on both sides when I first stopped. It felt like a flat tire feels... 'wiggly' when slowing down. I'm sure that if I'd tried to make it to the next town, I'd have destroyed the caliper and bracket. Most of the bearings seal, ball 'spacer' ring (know there's a correct name for that..?) and a few balls had exited along with the broken race chunks. It looked like those bits were what scarred up the wheel. |
