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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through July 07, 2012 » New rotor and pads break-in advice « Previous Next »

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Needs_o2
Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2012 - 09:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I know this could be like starting an oil thread, but I thought I'd take my chances. Just got a new 5mm rotor from the man and some EBC HH pads to go with it, now looking for advice on how to make them play nice with each other.
Thanks for your input, play nice!
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2012 - 10:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Run up to 35-40mph in a safe deserted spot.

HAMMER the brakes.

Repeat until you can smell them.

You're done.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2012 - 10:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Forgot to mention - make sure they're clean (no greasy paw-prints) before you start the process.
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1313
Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2012 - 12:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The best info I've got, and have actually used on a few XB/1125 ZTL/ZTL2 fresh rotor/fresh pads setups:

All stops “moderate” effort (~40-50% of max effort due to not so perfect pavement and “cold” street tires).

- 10 stops from 40-20mph (five relatively close together, no brake for awhile, then five more)
- 10 stops from 60-40mph (five relatively close together, no brake for awhile, then five more)
- Ride for 10 min or 15 miles and then:
- 10 stops from 80-60mph spaced over about 10 to 12 miles (roughly one stop per mile)
- Cool down back to shop with no front brake
- Inspect for full & even wear pattern. If not fully seated repeat procedure.

One time through should be about 40 to 45 miles and should work for both pads only and new pads/rotors. Note, new rotors take quite a bit longer than pads.

FWIW,
1313
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Mark_weiss
Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2012 - 02:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From the Stop Tech website:

quote:

All high performance after market discs and pads should come with both installation and break in instructions. The procedures are very similar between manufacturers. With respect to the pads, the bonding resins must be burned off relatively slowly to avoid both fade and uneven deposits. The procedure is several stops of increasing severity with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over.
In terms of stop severity, an ABS active stop would typically be around 0.9 G’s and above, depending on the vehicle. What you want to do is stop at a rate around 0.7
to 0.9 G's. That is a deceleration rate near but below lock up or ABS intervention. You should begin to smell pads at the 5th to 7th stop and the smell should diminish before the last stop. A powdery gray area will become visible on the edge of the pad (actually the edge of the friction material in contact with the disc - not the backing plate) where the paint and resins of the pad are burning off. When the gray area on the edges of the pads are about 1/8" deep, the pad is bedded.
For a race pad, typically four 80mph to 5 and two 100mph to 5, depending on the pad, will also be necessary to raise the system temperatures during break-in to the range that the pad material was designed to operate at. Hence, the higher temperature material can establish its layer completely and uniformly on the disc surface.
Fortunately the procedure is also good for the discs and will relieve any residual thermal stresses left over from the casting process (all discs should be thermally stress relieved as one of the last manufacturing processes) and will transfer the smooth layer of pad material onto the disc. If possible, new discs should be bedded with used pads of the same compound that will be used going forward. Again, heat should be put into the system gradually - increasingly hard stops with cool off time in between. Part of the idea is to avoid prolonged contact between pad and disc. With abrasive pads (which should not be used on high performance cars) the disc can be considered bedded when the friction surfaces have attained an even blue color. With the carbon metallic type pads, bedding is complete when the friction surfaces of the disc are a consistent gray or black. In any case, the discoloration of a completely broken in disc will be complete and uniform.


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