| Author | Message | ||
     Df3112 |
Hi All.... well good news, I finally sold the FJR and now can concentrate on the beloved Uly. So I'd like to move the bars up and back by lets say an inch. Any suggestions? Also will cables and controls be long enough to do so? Let looking for feedback of those who've done it before I try something that,s not doable.. Thanks ! | ||
| Smokey3644 |
Rox risers the Buell specific ones, I've had them for a couple of years and they make a big difference. PS, I didn't need to change any cables just took the brake cable clamp off. | ||
| Buellerxt |
+1 on Smokey's post. I have the Rox risers as well and they do the trick, without altering cables!  Best of luck. | ||
| Rdkingryder |
+2 | ||
| Ronmold |
+3 I narrowed my bars 7/8 at each end which gave me even more cable length. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Caveat - some bikes have "odd" cable routing behind the flyscreen, and some folks have had to reroute things here or there. But I also run 1" risers, with stock cables. I believe I rerouted my clutch cable just to give it a little more slack...but that's all. | ||
| Gringo |
i have rox risers on my uly and they work pretty well but im not really impressed. they make the gas cap hard to access plus the actual contact of the clamp is minimal with the risers on full tilt back and max height. but who else makes such a product? id like to see the folks at rox consult with a rider on the specifics of this model, it needs improvement. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I went the cheap route... double stack the bar clamp  | ||
| Crusty |
I put the 1" risers from Precision Engineering on my XT, and I was pretty happy with the result. | ||
| Motorbike |
I put the 1" risers from Precision Engineering on my XT, and I was pretty happy with the result. +1, Very nice product purchased from American Sport Bike. | ||
| Redtail |
I needed the 2 inch rise so I went with the rox. The con to them is getting the bolts tight they are a PITA to tighten up. I used a set of allen wrench's and cut the ones I needed as short as I could and I also removed the gauge cluster so not to scratch it. The cables will be stretched to the max, remove the top front brake line clamp and move the clear tape on the frame to protect frame from the brake line on the front right side of frame. | ||
| Britchri10 |
PM Sent. LMK. Chris C | ||
| Df3112 |
well,,,,, after the initial posts, I went went with the ROX, hope i did not make a mistake as I'm very unsure about cable length..... I'll let you know how they work out. Thanks for all the replies.... | ||
| 7873jake |
DF, now that the big business is out of the way, was the FJR as hot as the reviews all reported it to be? I've often wondered how hot it is/was compared to an XB in the summer | ||
| Rdkingryder |
Red, just remove the upper brake hose clamp. I cable tied mine to the upper fork tube, been like that for 5 years?   Plus I believe I loosened the master cylinder and slide it inward just a bit. | ||
| Df3112 |
Jake as long as I kept her on the HWY, the FJR was a great bike. Warm in town and the frame did get hot. 9 years & 60+K miles with no issues so I can't complain. | ||
| Arry |
Wolfrr, I like your solution. I've been thinking a small rise might suit me. Looks like about an inch (?). Thanks for the idea. | ||
| Df3112 |
Sorry posted to the wrong thread first time..... Anyway, I got the risers a few weeks back. Very nice product. Attempted to install but ran into a length issue with the front brake line. After ALOT of fooling around, It was not worth the hassle to move the lines around to make the risers work. Long story short I returned them..... Possibly will do the "cheap" route shown above. Also considered the Renthal "Raotor" bars but am concerned about removing the stock heated grips (left side)w/o damage to the grip. Aside of that, different bars may work as well. |
