| Author | Message | ||
     Pnw_uly |
Okay, I realize I could have just added this to my "Vexed & Perplexed" headlight thread, but know there quite a few here that pulled off the primary cover to either swap to the XB9 drive or inspect/swap out the stator, and I'm stunned that pricing the tools from H-D totals over $600.00. So, these tools are directly from the Service Manual: HD-38515-91 Clutch Spring Forcing Screw - $60 HD-38515-A Spring Compression Tool - $155 HD-46283 for XB12 Sprocket Locking Link - $60 HD-38362 for XB9 Sprocket Locking Link - $60 HD-97292-61 Two Claw Puller $280 Not surprisingly, I'm looking for a cheaper solution - - the $155 Spring Compressing Tool is $55 at American Sport Bike, and the Locking link is $29 vice $60 from H-D. But really, are all these tools really required ? ? ? Admittedly not a mechanic, handle the simple stuff - - brake pads, drive belts, wheel set swaps, electrical upgrades (CR mirrors / Motolight running lights / running light to top HB box), put in the comfort kit, etc., figure I could probably fab some flat stock for the locking links, but hard justify the expense for tools I'll only use once or twice. . . So for those who have done either the stator swap or the XB9 drive swap, is there a way to do this on the cheap ? ? ? Thanks in advance | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The spring forcing tool can be made out of either PVC pipe. Read this thread to be inspired to not buy $3000 of tools: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/193459.html | ||
| Reepicheep |
I believe all you really need is a plate of aluminum cut to the right size. Leave the clutch assembly intact. Just lock the two sprockets together with the locking bar, remove the big nuts, and pull the clutch / stator bell / primary chain off as a unit. | ||
| Rdkingryder |
Here's where I started when I did my engine. Similar, even though it's not a Sportster. Check your manual, pretty simple once you've done it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTVNj9uxKks&feature =related (Message edited by rdkingryder on May 22, 2012) http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m135/rdkingryder/Ulysses%20Mods/XB9Primary007.jpg (Message edited by rdkingryder on May 22, 2012) | ||
| Argentcorvid |
4" brass hinge at Menards - $11 Just make sure it's really brass, and not steel. | ||
| Pnw_uly |
Thanks all - - another fine example of why this site is superb. . . Knew there had to be a better solution than multi-tool, single use purchase. From some of the research I did before posting it looked like the clutch assembly could be removed as a unit. EDIT: Or, if the stator is the same location as the big twins (from the video), can the cluch assembly be left alone and only the front rotor removed for stator inspection ? ? Especially appreciate the link to the videos, saw the V-Twin website once I started looking for tool alternatives, missed the videos; those will really help once I get started on this. . . Thanks again, all. (Message edited by PNW ULY on May 22, 2012) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The sportster engines have the stator living up front on the engine. | ||
| Tootal |
You have to pull the clutch, as a unit, at the same time as the front sprocket. The chain will not allow you to do one at a time. All you need is a retaining ring pliers to remove the clutch. You remove the clutch assembly and the sprocket together to get to the stator. | ||
| Rdkingryder |
Here's my thread. Let me know if you need more pictures. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/650256.html?1315076787 | ||
| Pnw_uly |
Finally got started, not finished, per se, but started. . .  Couple of cinder blocks got the bike up to a more "workable" height. Use a transmission jack to help stabilize the bike. The clutch inspection had the "white goo", but think this is fairly common.  Purchased the link for American Sport Bike, hard to see between sprockets, worth the cost.  So got the retaining ring off, bearing and release plate off; then had to run out to Sears to grab a 1&3/16" socket..., then the hockey game came on. More to follow. . . (Message edited by pnw uly on June 10, 2012) | ||
| Pnw_uly |
All apart now, but have question for those who are familiar with all things electrical... I had a bought and installed and brand new voltage regulator, thinking that was the problem, but realized it was the stator when bulbs kept blowing. So, is the fairly new, but routinely "spiked" voltage regulator toast? ? ? Thanks in advance for any VR info. . . A few more pics. . .  Here's the culprit.  New stator side-by-side. XB9 gear reduction kit should be in this week. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I doubt your regulator would die from that. It's at least worth trying the regulator you have | ||
| Tootal |
I did the same exact thing. Had headlights blowing at 17 volts. Replaced VR and blew more headlights. It trashed my new VR and had to get the stator and VR. At least I had already put the new style 77 connectors in, made putting the second VR in rather easy! | ||
| Pnw_uly |
Thanks for the feedback, fellas. Went ahead and ordered another new Voltage Regulator anyway. The other "new" VR might be okay, but no real way to tell (or is there? ?), and if I'm doing this much work, the last thing I want when its all buttoned up is to get a 1/2 mile form the house and blow yet another headlight bulb. . . |
