| Author | Message | ||
     Chromehead |
Was wondering how many have done this, and what kind/size of hardware you used? Any pics also would be helpful! I would assume I would want to go with a stainless steel to prevent rust problems, etc. I know kits are available, but to I was hoping to just go to a box store or fastenal this weekend and make a Saturday project out of it. | ||
| Uly_man |
Why do you need to? | ||
| Ronmold |
I did mine with stainless 6mm hex-post button-head security screws that I have boxes full of. I'd be happy to send some to you for postage. For nuts I used stainless and heated them hot enough to melt the plastic. I then threaded the screw through the hole and put the nut on (with pliers!) Then I tightened the bolt down enough to melt into the plastic 1/16" and cooled it off with water. A little 5min epoxy around the nut and done. | ||
| Chromehead |
To be honest, just want to start changing my own oil, etc. rather than paying HD for it. Also it would allow me to just have to remove the right side as opposed to the entire thing? I guess I could rivet it back each time, but would rather just switch it over to a bolt and nut so I can re-use it | ||
| Uly_man |
Ah I see now. You can just use a SS flat head allen bolt, washer and Nyloc nut. Takes 5 min to do and costs 5 bucks. | ||
| Chromehead |
Ronmold, I appreciate the offer, very generous, but I was just gonna run to Lowes and pick up some things tonight, so no big deal. Thanks for the information! | ||
| Uly_man |
Chromehead. I do not understand? If you have a OEM can you take the two/three bolts out of the right, two out of the left and the two from the front of the chin fairing. If you have a aftermarket can that does not use the two front ones then the fairing is either bolted or riveted together. Then you just remove the ones either side as before? Take out oil plug, clean off any swarf, drain oil and remove filter. Refit plug, oil filter seal, fill oil filter (with oil), re fit filter and fairing. Run engine to temp and check level with bike on stand. Do not forget to use the plastic washers or over tighten anything. Also its a dry sump so it only needs very small amounts to top off the oil level. (Message edited by uly_man on May 04, 2012) | ||
| Djohnk |
I've been contemplating getting something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-PD600-Screwdriv er-Articulating/dp/B0000C6DXE/ref=sr_1_11?s=indust rial&ie=UTF8&qid=1336149940&sr=1-11 With that and a T-27 bit, I'd venture to say the you can have the fairing off in less than a minute.  | ||
| Chromehead |
Uly man, I have never changed the oil on the XT, I usually did/do all my own work on my other bikes, but the Buell I always just took to the local HD dealer. Decided recently after having them install new rear tire that I was gonna start doing as much service to it on my own as possible to save some money, plus I enjoy working on my own bikes if it is something I feel comfortable doing. I was just reading where it seems to make it easier to change the oil if you only have to remove the right said of the fairing, which in turn would involve me removing the rivets. I would think it is possible the way you explained, but seems a lot of people choose to remove the rivets for simplicity of not removing the entire fairing. Thanks for the other info too. Seems easy enough and for sure not a $120.00 job! | ||
| Uly_man |
"I was just reading where it seems to make it easier to change the oil if you only have to remove the right said of the fairing, which in turn would involve me removing the rivets. I would think it is possible the way you explained, but seems a lot of people choose to remove the rivets for simplicity of not removing the entire fairing." Well look at this way. If you have rivets you only need take out 4 bolts and this is done with a Torx head screwdriver which is a one tool deal. If you use a bolt on the chin fairing you will need the Torx screwdriver AND a spanner. Its just me but this sounds like making hard work out of a very simple job. A oil change takes me 15 min so not a $120 job at all. (Message edited by uly_man on May 04, 2012) | ||
| Tootal |
If you watch the dealer do it I'll bet they are taking out the screws on the right and just flexing the plastic out of the way to change the filter. I was getting a tire put on at a dealer, while on a road trip, and saw a tech changing the oil on a Buell and did just that. I prefer to take mine off but I know it's possible even though I was cringing watching the plastic flex that far without breaking! | ||
| Etennuly |
I take out the three right side bolts and the two front ones. That allows the chin faring to kind of hang down making it easy to get the filter off and on. My chin faring is painted and it is not even a problem for flexing the paint too far. I cannot see any need to take the side of it off. It probably would be easier to take the left three bolts out. | ||
| Tootal |
I heard you were pretty flexible Vern, but I forgot what subject we were talking about at the time?  | ||
| Uly_man |
"I was cringing watching the plastic flex that far without breaking!" Well if it had been me I would hope he had good medical because he would have needed it? A bolt "here or there" is nothing. Try changing a battery on a BMW 1100RT if you want pain. Around an hour and two the first time out. And you have to leave a body organ, as a deposit, with BMW to cover the bill if they do it! (Message edited by uly_man on May 04, 2012) | ||
| Debueller |
I take out the three screws on the right and flex the plastic out of the way to change the filter. Been doing it this way many times without any ill effects...... | ||
| Chromehead |
I do not have the bike sitting here, but will check it out when I get home. Maybe you are correct and I might be just causing myself more work. | ||
| Chromehead |
Uly man, Yeah, I have a 99 BMW R1200C I have pretty much done all my own work on (other than when the final drive bearings went) so I know your pain. The battery on it is under the tank. The real fun on it was replacing the fuel pump, it was several hours worth of work. I have just been so busy the last few years with work that HD has did all my Buell service. | ||
| Uly_man |
Debueller is quite right. "I take out the three screws on the right and flex the plastic out of the way to change the filter. Been doing it this way many times without any ill effects." and he knows how to and may not have a problem. Try this. A glass can only be filled one way but a bolt can be done up in many ways IE lose, right, to hard or even ripped out. In other words, in some cases, its neither right or wrong. One persons small bend may be someones break. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I do the three screws on the right side, and the two in the front, then flex it. It's not significantly stressing the plastic anywhere. That's only one more screw than you would have to do if you replaced the rivets with screws. Those front screws, between the heat and road grime, probably need a new coat of anti-sieze every 3000 miles anyway... | ||
| Etennuly |
Greg, I have not been accused of being physically flexible in thirty years.  Mentally.....I have to be.....I own a business.   | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I drilled out the rivets on the right side and ran a zip tire through the holes. Left side of the fairing still has the rivets. Two torx bolts and cut the zip tie.. I've got perfect access to the filter with no need for stretching/bending plastic parts. |
