| Author | Message | ||
     Sharkguy |
Well I tried to adjust my headlight today. I say tried because the bolt that goes into the bottom of the headlight assembly seems to be stripped. That or the nut it goes into is spinning inside of the headlight assembly. Anyone had this problem and come up with a fix? | ||
| Tootal |
Yes, somebody had that problem a while back. I would pull the headlight assembly off along with the front fender and get it on a bench to make it easier to work on. I think some of the suggestions were a dremel with cut-off wheel and a drill to take the head off the screw. I have a feeling it's spinning the nut in the housing. | ||
| Thesmaz |
Thats exactly what happened to mine!. Time to find another headlight housing because you cant repair the plastic that holds the nut on the bottom side, ask me how I know... | ||
| Ratbuell |
....actually, you can. Get a piece of sacrificial plastic and a soldering iron. "Solder" it back in place, using the scrap plastic as solder to fill the gaps. You can also start the process hitting JUST THE NUT with a torch for a second or two, helping it fuse back to the plastic, then fill the surrounding areas with plastic from the scrap. | ||
| Tootal |
Smaz man, how could I forget it was you!? I don't think you were alone though. I would imagine a good epoxy should be able to hold it. Even JB Weld would handle that. I'd use an anti sieze on the screw too. (Message edited by tootal on April 09, 2012) | ||
| Sharkguy |
All great ideas! I'll try taking the fender and light housing off and go from there. Thanks for the advise everyone. | ||
| Reepicheep |
JB Weld now makes an ABS epoxy putty. I've used it a couple times now with good success on other bike projects (not a Buell headlight though). | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Dammit! That was my problem. now you have to... pay me royalties? I FAILED to get that bolt out no matter what I did. I ended up buying a new housing from American Sport Bike. (came with a new harness and bulbs!) My "upgrade" was to insert a length of threaded 1/4X20 rod and use a wingnut. I drilled the wingnut and safety wired it. So I can adjust it on the road without tools if I want  | ||
| Sharkguy |
I think I'm going to leave it alone for now. It's stuck so it's not going anywhere. I just wanted to raise it a tiny bit but it'll work for now. Maybe at a later date I'll get a new housing and use the old one for the KLR headlight conversion. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
What I did when mine was frozen up was loosen the top two bolts and you can get just a tiny bit of movement that way. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
You can also adjust your headlight by adjusting the suspension. If the rear end is lowered a bit, your light will shine higher. wait here it comes All you need is a fat girl! | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Yup. You know what this is. You don't have to click on it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=moi5GFfhrNo | ||
| H2opatrol |
I didn't even know there's supposed to be a screw there. I haven't had one on mine for 10k miles. Oops! No wonder it was so easy to adjust my headlights on the fly | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
LOL! That's a value-added feature. weight saving too. | ||
| Uly_man |
Or you could just try using the correct way of doing it. Has anyone ever noticed those holes in the front cowl near the indicators? Well those are what you use to adjust the lights. Up, down, left and right. The bottom middle one is just, more or less a mount for the light unit. This is very basic stuff but if anyone needs a picture to help them I will post one. (Message edited by uly_man on April 11, 2012) | ||
| H2opatrol |
Yeah I saw those thanks. Like I said I didn't even know it was supposed to be there. Bought it with 1000 miles from a former buell dealer that way. I have had it apart 4 or 5 times messing with junk HID ballasts, just shows my attention to detail |
