| Author | Message | ||
     Razz |
My new clutch cable is coming Monday so I did some preliminary work today but I see I probably should have had a shop manual.I took the clutch inspection cover off but could not see how the old cable comes off and the new goes on.It might make more sense once I get the new cable.Also when I took the cover off a nut with spring came flying out.I can see how it goes back on but I had to turn the adjustment screw to get it on.So how does the new cable go on and what is the adjustment for the clutch itself.Also one of the cable clamps is bolted to a front engine tie bar.What is the torque for this and does it require loctite?My bike is an 09 XB12XT. Any help and or pictures would be greatly appreciated.I am headed to Port Dover,Ontario for big Friday the 13th rally and would love to get my bike there. Thanks,Ray LeBlanc AKA Razz | ||
| Panhead_dan |
If you intend to keep this bike, get the shop manual before it becomes obsolete. Slide the dust cover off the adjuster near the front head. Adjust the adjuster till you have lots of slack. Remove the cable end from the clutch lever on the handlebar. If you need more slack, there is another adjuster down where the cable goes into the clutch. You may have to disconnect the clutch lever at the pivot to get the cable free of it, I can't remember. Remove the clutch cover and catch the spring and that little locking thingie. With the slack in the cable you should be able to see how the end hooks in it. Remove the old cable and stick the new one in. Once the cable is connected at both ends, loosen the lock nut and screw the clutch adjuster at the center of the clutch in until it seats lightly. Unscrew it about a third of a turn, tighten the locknut and install the spring, lock thingie and cover. Using the adjuster at the front head, give your lever a little bit of slack so that you don't have pressure on the throwout bearing until you pull the lever. Replace your dust cover and put a bit of lube on the cable end, in the clutch lever. Lube it again at each oil change and you won't need another cable for a long time. (Message edited by panhead_dan on April 06, 2012) | ||
| Teeps |
Caution: The threaded ferrule can be broken by over torquing or sideways force. Once broken the cable is all but useless. The threaded ferrule at the clutch case is not an adjustment. The ferrule is threaded into the case until it bottoms (there is an o'ring that seals to the case.) This is best done BY HAND. To complete the installation in the case take a wrench and tighten it no more than 1 flat of the hex head. | ||
| Rays |
The other thing that should be mentioned here is that once the cable is removed from the primary it will also allow the primary fluid to drain so plan to have the oil on hand to do a primary fluid replacement as part of the procedure. I have heard of folk putting the bike on its side to prevent primary fluid loss when doing this on the side of the road but in the comfort of your own garage that wouldn't be my approach. What Teeps has said above can't be stressed enough. If you search the Badweb posts there are many tales of woe in relation to breaking that threaded ferrule. There is a Post by Al Lighton somewhere that gives a great instruction on changing the clutch cable and one tip he gave was to thread the the ferrule into the primary while the cable is laid out straight on the ground. This helps prevent any inadvertent sideways force that might be experienced if you fed the cable up to the handlebars before threading it into the primary. Personally I didn't fancy my chances of not dropping the cable end into the primary so I removed the ball and ramp assembly completely to do that part. My replacement clutch cable didn't come with an 'O' ring fitted to the ferrule that screws into the primary housing and the '06 Uly parts manual doesn't list it so I ended re-using the old one. I see my '09 parts manual does have that listed - 11179. The tie bar bolt torque is 25-27 ft-lbs. | ||
| Turf_moor |
I know the answer to this question has so many variables but I wondered how many miles these things tend to last. Mine has done 18'300 miles. | ||
| Tootal |
The new cable is covered in plastic so lubrication should probably be a silicone base. Much better design than the original. Looks like it will last longer too. | ||
| Cyclonedon |
I tried attaching my new clutch cable to the clutch handle then routing it down to the motor and I ended up breaking mine. So I took it to the dealer to replace the second one. I suggest get the owners manual or take the bike to a Buell dealer to have replaced. | ||
| Razz |
I installed my new cable last night and it was very easy thanks to the advice I got on this forum.Definitely need to lay it on the ground and screw it in to the primary end first.The threads had sealant on them so it was a bit of effort to screw it in.When it bottoms out that's far enough.I slipped the cable through a box end wrench for the final turns so I did n't have to remove the shifter.Inside the primary taking the ramp out made it much easier to attatch the cable without losing parts inside.Again thanks for all the advice.The old cable seemed to have motor oil lubricating it which makes sense since any lubricant runs down into the primary and should be compatible with primary oil. | ||
| Ratbuell |
If it's the new teflon-lined cable, do NOT use any lube on it. You can lube the ferrule at the lever, but that's all you need to do. I've had a teflon cable on the '06 for...oh...2 or 3 years now. Dry as a bone, still pulls as light as the 1125's clutch does. | ||
| Mbest |
On a side note, has anyone here used one of the Magura Hyd clutch kits on a XB? |
