| Author | Message | ||
     Calamari_kid |
So I'm getting some oil around the shift shaft on my '09 xt and am looking at what it'll take to replace the oil seal. I found one description of the job in another thread, but it seemed to describe replacement of the rubber washer which is outboard of the actual oil seal rather than the seal itself. In any case, does anyone have experience with doing this job? Can it be completed without removing the primary cover? The description I read in the other thread said to go after it with an o-ring pick and just work it out, then drive the replacement in with an appropriate sized socket. Any tips or tricks are much appreciated. | ||
| Griffmeister |
When you find out let me know. I have a seal on hand waiting to try. I have my doubts about just working it out with a pick. Seals of this type are usually pressed in, even though it takes a minimal amount of force they can usually be quite stuck nonetheless. On larger seals I've screwed in some sheet metal screws and used a pry bar, don't know if it's feasible here. I know I'm kind of hijacking this post but I have a related question that would negate the issue on my part. I also need to replace the clutch cable o-ring. Can the cable end be disconnected from the actuator without removing the primary cover? If not then I'll be doing both at the same time. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Thom- I've never replaced the seal without having the primary cover off first, but the O-ring pick suggestion should work for removal. The one trick I've read for installation is to use a sandwich bag to protect the seal from the shifter shaft splines during installation. Just take a plastic sandwich bag and cut a ~2" wide piece out of it which includes a "corner" of the bag. Place the piece of bag over the end of the shifter shaft and then slide the new seal over that. Once the seal is past the splines, remove and discard the bag and press the seal into place. George- yes, the clutch cable can be disconnected without removing the primary cover. It's not hard to do, but you probably do want a shop manual for this so that you get it put back together properly and do the "major clutch adjustment" properly. The only thing is that from what I've seen, that O-ring rarely leaks; it's more often the cable itself that's leaking, where the metal end is crimped onto the plastic sheath. The main thing to remember when re-installing the clutch cable is that the threaded fitting on the end is made of aluminum and will wring off VERY easily. You just need to tighten it barely snug using a short wrench with your fingers. If you apply substantial torque it will snap right off. DAMHIK. | ||
| Slyuly |
I've replaced mine using the instructions Hughlysses referenced with no problems without removing anything from the bike other than the linkage Didn't have an o-ring pick so just used a very small screwdriver and it was nerve racking until it came out, but no problems. | ||
| Calamari_kid |
Very good, thanks for the info guys. | ||
| Tootal |
Be sure and put some grease on the lips of the seal. This makes it last a lot longer. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Cable crimp, haven't considered that possibility, crap. Looks like it's duct tape time. Remember, smooth tape is the sign of a fine craftsman.  | ||
| Hughlysses |
I think people have had good results sealing the cable crimp with that "self-bonding" electrical tape- the kind that "welds" to itself. |
