| Author | Message | ||
     Electraglider_1997 |
Has anyone taken a brand new rear drive belt and heated it in an oven to lengthen it a bit before putting it on. Crazy idea? Bad idea? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Perhaps oven is too much? You might have a good idea though. heating it up in a car in the sun may be better/safer. I have never tried anything other than brute force and foul language. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I'm thinking to about 150 F or so. | ||
| Nillaice |
i've heard of heating up the ring gear to install it on a flywheel, but the ring gear is glowing red. and it is metal, not rubber with a fibrous inner-layer. i'd think that the multiple layers/differnt materials that the belt is made of would keep it from stretching at all. and drive belts are specifically designed and made NOT to stretch/expand. how much is it really going to expand being heated up ~75 degrees? before i resort to an oven; i'd try getting the axle threaded (just one or two turns) with out the idler pulley installed, then put it back. the weight/size/alignment of the rear wheel makes it hard to get the axle in, but the idler pulley is small and light, and you can see what you're trying to line up. | ||
| Blake |
Heat make belt teeth thicker more than belt longer, actually may make belt more difficult to install. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Has anyone taken a brand new rear drive belt and heated it in an oven to lengthen it a bit before putting it on. Crazy idea? Bad idea?" Its not something I would do EG but then what do I know. You should do it with the rear wheel removed as per HD workshop spec. You can do it, if you have to on the road side but it is not easy. Try it at home first to get some practice. If you are doing it at home get a wheel stand. Its cheap enough and a std fit most bikes item. Trust me EG it is worth the money for bearings/rubber etc. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I just brought this up for discussion purposes since it popped into my mind. I've only shelled out one belt a couple of years ago and changed it at home without too much trouble, though it sure could have been engineered to be easier to do. An adventure bike should be designed with easy " by the side of the road or trail" maintenance in mind. Also, just for discussion purposes but really another moot point since no more Uly's are being built: I'd much rather Buell had saved the cost of that beaver tail and put it towards a SS muffler. I never have used the backrest except to move it up or down to get it out of the way. Makes no difference now but during my ownership that beaver tail has not ever been used for anything. I'm sure some think it is the cat's meow and it is a nice engineering exercise but since every dollar seems to make a difference I would have spent it elsewhere. | ||
| Reepicheep |
If you want to do something to make the belt mount easier, remove the belt tensioner and make the mounting holes a little larger. It gives the idler a little more play, and softens the tension. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
"If you want to do something to make the belt mount easier, remove the belt tensioner and make the mounting holes a little larger. It gives the idler a little more play, and softens the tension." But that's CHEATING!!!!! | ||
| Uly_man |
EG the beaver tail is a clever idea and it has its points but I am with you on this one. That back end weighs one a hell of a lot. An SS muffler option on a new bike should have been the way or even as std kit. Its not an adventure bike either in my mind just a tall XB. A parts bin bike marketed for a new trend. On the other hand this weird bike has worked out well. I just would not trust it on the Dakar run myself. | ||
| Schwara |
You can also replace the stock belt tensioner with the FS tensioner (shiny springy thingy). You can then turn the adjustment nut to compress the spring, taking tension off the belt during install, and put it back to normal once the new belt is on. As a slight but related hijack ... how long (miles) should you run a new belt to get it stretched out before replacing it to then keep and use as a spare? | ||
| Reepicheep |
The FS tensioners are a neat looking bit of kit, no doubt, but they add another wear element and service item to the system. I had no issues with the stock tensioner on my 9sx... it was perfect and I left it be. But I could fell the belt occasionally bind the suspension on my 07 XB12X. A step drill to the tensioner solved that problem nicely, and made the belt and pulley easier to put on and off as well. It still has tension at rest, just not as much. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
I've replaced the belt twice on the roadside now, the first time it took me an hour the second time I bet less than 30 minutes. Both times were new (non-pre stretched) belts. The first time I screwed up by removing the tensioner which was a crap idea. The second time I got the belt half way on the rear drive pulley and then just backed the bike up to walk it on. I can't really imagine how it could be easier. | ||
| Nillaice |
As a slight but related hijack ... how long (miles) should you run a new belt to get it stretched out before replacing it to then keep and use as a spare? i'd ride it until teh tensior pulley can be spun with your finger when the bike is parked | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
The next time you have a rear tire change, that would be an opportune time to change out the belt so that you can have an easy change spare on hand. | ||
| Mtdan |
Reepicheep, how much larger did you make the holes? Wouldn't it be possible to enlarge the higher one a bit (1/8"?)and then just have it pivot on the lower one without having to enlarge it also? Seems like a good idea, how many miles w/o trouble so far? Slightly less tension may help with belt breaks. |
