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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through November 18, 2011 » Engine cut and unstable idle « Previous Next »

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Eraendil
Posted on Thursday, October 27, 2011 - 04:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the first symptom was a cut down motor with the red motor led light on. I stop the bike and restart it without problem. BUT the idle is unstable, sometime to high.
I make a TPS reset with ECM Spy... I had an error register from the temperature sensor. Well it seem good... AFV was at 98% that not too bad.
Reset AFV, TPS, I regulate the idle and ride for 40 miles... And the same problem return except that now the idle is normal when motor is hot and very too low when cold.
Any idea where is the problem ?
Hope yo understand my bad english..
Thank.

PS : the last change I've made is to install an ECM race

(Message edited by eraendil on October 27, 2011)
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Buewulf
Posted on Thursday, October 27, 2011 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you reset the TPS when the engine was cold? The engine should be warmed up for the reset.

Did the problem surface immediately after installing the race ECM? Or did the problem arise later, and the TPS reset was your attempt to fix the problem?
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Etennuly
Posted on Thursday, October 27, 2011 - 01:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you did the TPS reset when the engine was fully warmed up that should be good.

I have seen a couple of times the throttle plate will have carbon built up on the edge of the throttle plate. I did a TPS reset with that condition and made it run worse. I had to clean it with some carb cleaner then reset the TPS and all was well.


The target RPM for fully warmed up idle is about 1050. If it is just a few RPM too high it will kind of hang about 1800 to 2000 and then float down to about 1200 or so. If this is the case try setting it to 1000 RPM.

When you start the bike cold do you touch the throttle or rev it at all? If the temps are below 40F I usually twist the throttle a little a couple of times while cranking if it does not start right away. As soon as it starts do not touch the throttle. It seems that revving it when it is cold will turn off the ECM's cold idle compensation, which is not much in RPMs but rather in richness.

So try a cold start without touching the throttle and leave it idle for about five minutes before doing anything with it. If it runs poorly at cold idle I would check for fouled or partly fouled plugs.
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Metra6924
Posted on Thursday, October 27, 2011 - 07:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Compare the temperature readings for the intake air sensor and the engine temperature sensor with ECMSpy when the engine is cold. They should be similar. If not, I would suspect the engine temperature sensor. I had one go bad and it caused similar problems.
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Eraendil
Posted on Friday, October 28, 2011 - 05:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The TPS reset has been made with warmed up engine...

Compare the temperature readings for the intake air sensor and the engine temperature sensor with ECMSpy when the engine is cold. They should be similar. If not, I would suspect the engine temperature sensor. I had one go bad and it caused similar problems.

Effectively, it seem there is a problem here, Ecmspy detect an error on air intake temp sensor, and I read a good temp here and not the same on the engine temp sensor that seem too low ...
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Friday, October 28, 2011 - 10:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Make sure that the crankcase vent hoses on either side of the air intake sensor are only about 1/2 inch tall so that the oily mist isn't pooping out onto the sensor. Service manual warns of this.
Also, watch for ECMSpy to go from open loop when cold to closed loop when the ETS (engine temp sensor) on rear head is fully warmed up. I might have that closed and open loop backwards.
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Tootal
Posted on Saturday, October 29, 2011 - 01:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 on the crankcase vent hoses. Oily mist is known to take out the sensor, that's why I got rid of them.
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Eraendil
Posted on Thursday, November 03, 2011 - 05:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What I don't understand is if the air intake sensor is H.S I would have the information by a red led... here I've nothing.
The bike run well, except the idle when cold...
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