| Author | Message | ||
     Cerk26 |
Priorities...as much as I'd like to do all of this at once it just ain't gonna happen. I've got a nice long trip planned for the spring (a dream trip of mine, can't wait). So, I'm going to spend the off season prepping myself, my gear and the Uly for the ride. So, what would you guys do first? -2010 Wheel Upgrade -Erik Buell Racing Race ECM -Drummer Exhaust (or Spec Ops) -Garmin Zumo (or Nuvi, we'll see) There are a number of other touring goodies I'll be stocking up on at the same time...I know the exhaust isn't a necessity but personally I just have to have that engine opened up so it can prrrrrr. I'm leaning towards the 2010 wheel just for piece of mind. To be honest it kind of pisses me off that I may be replacing what should be a perfectly good wheel, but it is what it is I guess and I'll be much happier with it out of mind for good. So what do you guys think? I'll wind up doing it all eventually, just need to order everything. I've got a loaner GPS if need be so it's not critical right now. | ||
| Froggy |
ECM, GPS, Wheel, Pipe, that order.  | ||
| Cerk26 |
So the ECM really is that big a difference, eh? How does it work with modifying the ECM to accommodate the pipe down the road? I'm reluctant so spend $300 on an ECM that I know will need to be modified for a pipe shortly after purchase ya know. (Message edited by cerk26 on September 19, 2011) | ||
| Buellerxt |
Definitely the 2010 wheel first. No comparison. RELIABILITY over performance tweaks any day. Have a Great, and safe trip. | ||
| Froggy |
Yep!
$35 and you can mail it back to Erik Buell Racing for reprogramming
Ouch! They were $250 last week. Also, I wouldn't bother with a pipe till after your trip, you will appreciate the quiet when cruising for hours on end.
Funny, that is the same reason I picked ECM first. One has an immediate difference, which makes the bike more enjoyable and less to worry about, while the other one only has an immediate impact on your wallet. | ||
| Billy_bee |
I read that rear bearing failure is caused by improper rear axle torque procedure. It makes sense to me that an over torqued axle would cause bearing problems. I have no idea if it's true, but if true, may affect the order in which you make preparations. But, again, I'm not really sure what causes the failure. If the rear wheel issue can be solved with fresh bearings and keeping the rear axle properly torqued, I'd do that first. Then the ECM, for performance and reliability reasons. I have ridden with a GPS for years. There is no substitute for a good map, but GPS helps so much. I rely on my iPhone for lots of good travel info, too. But not while riding, of course. If I had to choose one or the other, I think I would choose a smart phone along with the good map, depending on the cell service where you'll be traveling. If you plan to be in the middle of nowhere, take a GPS. Muffler schmuffler. I'd buy a spare drive belt and some proper tools for the trip. bb PS: don't you just love posts that don't answer the question you asked? | ||
| Mungass |
if it aint broke don't fix it!!! do the pipe dude ......its broke !!!!!!!!!!!  | ||
| Crusty |
Change the wheel, or at least the bearings. It really sucks to be in the middle of nowhere waiting for a tow truck. Plus, there is some lag time between when you order the '10 wheel, and when you get it. The wheel bearings on my wife's Ss died in the middle of Pennsylvania. The bike got towed to the nearest dealer, and she rode home with me. Three weeks later, we went back to PA and picked the bike up. | ||
| Trojan |
I read that rear bearing failure is caused by improper rear axle torque procedure. It makes sense to me that an over torqued axle would cause bearing problems. I have no idea if it's true, but if true, may affect the order in which you make preparations. But, again, I'm not really sure what causes the failure Common causes of rear wheel bearing failures are: 1. Over tightening of rear axle. This crushes the spacers inside the wheel and allows the bearings to have lateral movement. The rear axle should only be tightened just over hand tight and then secured using the pinch bolt. 2. Early bikes had dodgy bearing from new (the ones with orange seals) and should have been replaced by now. Even the later type are not great and will allow water ingress. DO NOT use a jet wash to clean your bike!. 3. Belt tension destroys rear wheel bearings. That has been discussed at length elsewhere but is well documented. (Message edited by trojan on September 20, 2011) | ||
| Dynasport |
It looks like you can ask ten people and get ten answers. So, here's mine. You didn't tell us how long the trip is or how many miles per day you'll be doing, but for the long trips I have taken on my XT comfort becomes a priority. if you are just doing a couple hundred miles a day you may find everything fine, but for me 400+ miles a day left me wanting to change a couple of things. First, I added the Palmer windshield brackets to make high speed cruising much more pleasant. The Madstad brackets will do the same thing I understand. Second, I found my butt a bit sore (ok, after a couple of long days it was more than just a bit sore). I first tried beads from beadrider.com and while they helped, I ended up trying a sheepskin from Alaskaleather.com and haven't taken it off since. Since you didn't mention either of those changes you may find the air fine and the seat great, but those two changes made long distance comfort for me much improved. As far as the other changes you mention go, I really like using my GPS on trips. I have recently begun using it to design the rides on my computer and downloading them to the GPS, which I like a lot. It is also nice to be able to search for gas stations and restaurants and such while out and about. I would probably do the GPS first off your list (disclaimer, I have a 2010, so I already have the upgraded wheel bearings.) If I didn't have the upgraded wheel bearings, it would be between that and an Erik Buell Racing ecm. I will probably add the ecm myself in the not too distant future. Not really for any performance upgrade, but because at times I find the fueling on my bike when it is cold a bit aggravating. I hear the Erik Buell Racing ecm fixes that. As far as the pipe goes, while I love the sound of aftermarket exhausts, I don't know that I want to put up with one for hundreds of miles a day. I am still on the fence as to whether I will change my exhaust out or not. If I do, it will come after a new GPS (mine is pretty old and I am wanting some of the new features) and an Erik Buell Racing ecm. But hey, it's your money, so spend it how you want. | ||
| Cerk26 |
Dynasport: It's looking like about 3000 miles in 8 days or so...a little less than half that mileage on the first and last day. ...I'll definitely look in to the windshield upgrade, and I actually emailed AlaskaLeather.com yesterday! They don't list the Buells so I inquired as to which buttpad fits the Uly best. What did you go with? I so love the $50-$100 upgrades over the $300-$500 options!!  As for the existing rear bearings, they appear to still be original (11k+ miles) and the rear tire was just changed last fall by the dealer before I bought the bike. There's some visible corrosion around the bearings and I just don't trust them. At a minimum I'll replace them, but that '10 wheel is trending towards the top of the list. I have to take the bike in to a dealer here for warranty work on the exhaust actuator, maybe I'll have them throw in new bearings as well... | ||
| Cerk26 |
Has anyone tried the cruiser pegs from Palmer Products? They look very enticing...I'm constantly trying to finagle a spot to throw my feet forward on longer trips. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Here's my suggestion. As I remember it, when I got my ULY near the end of 2005 the first thing I was concerned with was getting rid of the awful wind buffeting. That took awhile but I haven't changed my modified CeeBailey since. I wouldn't mess with a perfectly good oem muffler except to try to keep it from rusting. A 2010 rear wheel is nice if you can part with close to 400 bucks. The 3 bearings are huge in comparison and with the added protection of dust seals. I lived without real problems with the original wheel except for some worry for over 34K miles. Ride and enjoy. | ||
| Motorbike |
Billy_bee, I agree that over-torquing the rear axle will cause bearings to fail but that was not the case when mine let go at, 7300 miles. My rear wheel had not been off the bike at all so if it was over-torqued, it happened at the factory. A lot of guys blame my bearing failure on washing the bike too much. If that were true, shouldn't my front bearings be failing also? Cerk 26, I would highly recommend the 2010 wheel or at a minimum, change your stock bearings or you will end up walking. | ||
| Cerk26 |
Are the available bearings at American Sport Bike considered an upgrade over the stock set up or merely a fresh replacement? Is that where you guys are buying the bearings? This is going to be a big decision for me, where to throw the money at the outset. New bearings or new wheel. New bearings or new wheel...new bearings or new wheel!!?? | ||
| Motorbike |
New bearings in your stock wheel would be quick and inexpensive. That would get you through your trip just fine, providing they are installed properly. | ||
| Cerk26 |
Yeah the more I browse through the assorted upgrades, the more I want to keep that $300!  I'm going to talk with the dealer guys today and see what they'll charge. You really do have to press these bearings in right? I just talked with the Palmer guys (wow, prompt response!) and I think I'll be adding the following along with the bracket: -cruiser peg kit -Light Mount (recommendations on lights?) -Bar Ends -Front Mount Saver -Clutch Cable Retainer ...those last two just look really cheap and easy for further piece of mind. Palmer has some great stuff! Those items, along with the sheepskin, maybe the NGK iridium plugs and a few other goodies look to be completing the list for the winter. The off season might be as fun as the dang riding season this year!! Also, I saw that a bunch of people did the tail light upgrade on the top case. There's a member here who fabricates a kit for that set up right? You guys have been a tremendous help. Thanks again. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Cerk, It is closer to 400 bucks. Not a bad price for a beautiful cast wheel with all the fixings. Though, should of come with the bike to begin with. | ||
| Froggy |
-cruiser peg kit - No comment on this -Light Mount (recommendations on lights?) - Skip this, get HID lights -Bar Ends - Good purchase -Front Mount Saver - Debatable if it actually helps improve isolator life -Clutch Cable Retainer - Check your stock retainer, you may already have the upgraded unit. If your stock one looks like a bent paperclip, it is the older failure prone style. | ||
| Uly_man |
Take a set of wheel bearings, cheap and easy to fit at most places if needed, and a spare belt as you WILL NEED IT SOONER OR LATER anyway. Trust me I KNOW THIS. Most of all have breakdown recovery. Anything else with happen anyway. A good tip for a long trip is to test stuff you fit before going. Again trust me I know how this works. Also travel as light as you can if possible. | ||
| Dynasport |
I don't recall the exact name of the Alaska sheepskin I bought. I remember looking on the web site searching for what I needed with no luck. So I measured the seat and ordered according to the size. On the order form I also noted it was for a Buell Ulysses. A nice lady emailed me and told me I had ordered the wrong one and she had corrected the order for me. The one I got was actually listed as something like a pillion pad. Great customer service in my opinion. Smart move on the Palmer windshield bracket as far as I am concerned. I paid a bit extra to get it powdercoated black to match my bike better and also upgraded to the tool free adjustable knob. That feature was nice when I first bought the bracket to figure out where I wanted it set, but since I have left it alone and not adjusted it. Have fun on your trip. I leave Monday for a 2000 mile trip. I can't wait. | ||
| Cerk26 |
Electraglider: That's exactly why I'm debating it internally with such fervor! How much is that piece of mind worth to me...hmmmm. Froggy: Thanks for the nod, I'll have a look when I get home. Didn't realize that they had upgraded that component. UlyMan: Spare belt and bearings are on the list. I've traveled plenty, just not as long as this particular trip will be...can't wait. Dynasport: Yep, Barb emailed me back today and recommended the pillion pad. I'm going to go with the hip shag look, reminds me of my living room when I was a kid I'll be grabbing the exact same bracket from Palmer..enjoy your trip, safe travels. Where to? | ||
| Dynasport |
I'm heading to North Carolina with a group of friends. A buddy has access to a cabin near Sylva that we get to use for free, so it makes for a nice trip that doesn't cost too much. We ride the Cherohala, the Blue Ridge, do the Dragon and take in some other various roads. By the time we get back we've done about 2,000 miles. We've done this trip several years in a row and I begin looking forward to the next one about ten seconds after finishing the last one. | ||
| Cerk26 |
Nice. We'll be rolling right through there as part of our trip next spring. (Message edited by cerk26 on September 20, 2011) | ||
| Cyclonedon |
if you plan on doing touring, I would get the Garmin Zumo 550 first thing because the motorcycle itself is a rock solid bike that will rack up thousands of trouble free miles. that being said, I still haven't got my Garmin Zumo 550 yet! I enjoy getting lost and the adventure that I get from just riding my 2006 Uly. | ||
| Cerk26 |
Haha! I'm kind of the same way with the GPS stuff. I travel quite a bit for work and always did without one...half the shortcuts and routes around traffic here locally I found from tooling around on the bike or just getting lost trying to find a better way. That said, for this trip I'll definitely need one along with a solid map. I've got a nice list together at this point for upgrades here in the off season. I'm still struggling most with this '10 wheel. The more I think about how long I'd like to keep the Uly, the more I lean towards just swapping to the 2010 version. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Change the ECM. Leave the pipe (ride it with the new ECM - you'll see). I pulled my Drummer and put a stocker back on. Quiet is niiiiice, and the power is still there. Better, actually. They put that valve in for a reason, y'know... If you want to worry about the $ more than the wheel...buy spare bearings and carry them with you and forget the wheel for now. I've got 20k+ on black seal bearings, no issues, no picking, no poking, no packing, plenty of rain and snow and road snot. I also carry a spare belt. And I still use my Quest II | ||
| Easttroy |
What time frame do you have? If you have 3 weeks and not a day more, I'd suggest getting the following as well (as it would SUCK to have to wait 3+ days for any one of the following) 1) Fuel Pump 2) Drive Belt 3) Spark Plug Wires 4) Spark Plugs I haven't had #2 go on me yet, but everything else has whilst on a trip. I've seen other people who have lost drive belts on here, so I know it can happen at any time. | ||
| Cerk26 |
Trip is in May/June (still nailing that down) over 8 days or so. The fuel pump was already replaced under warranty once so I was thinking that shouldn't be an issue. The other three are on the list. | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
I removed my Drummer after a 10 day trip through Labrador. It's simply exhausting (no pun intended) to listen to all of that noise for so many miles. Literally, exhausting...as in, much more tired at the end of the day. After thousands of hours of flying turboprops back in the day, I'm happy with quiet. Makes the iPod experience much more enjoyable as well. Tipsy | ||
| Easttroy |
Quote: "The fuel pump was already replaced under warranty once so I was thinking that shouldn't be an issue." Mine has been too, but I don't trust it anymore after breaking down on me whilst on a ride. Took 3 more days to get home and time off without pay. That sucked ass. |
