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Mattmcc00
Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2011 - 02:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Been having a "tinky" sound when i give it some acceleration. Kind of like marbles bouncing around.

Put a little seafoam in the gas, the oil, and the air intake via throttle plate, and presto! All gone.

No more marbles.

Also changed the oil after a bit of riding to clean out any gunk that the seafoam liquefied.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2011 - 02:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like spark knock (detonation). If the Seafoam cleared it up, that likely means it was carbon build up in the combustion chambers, and putting it in the intake is likely what got rid of the combustion chamber carbon.

I've seen people dis Seafoam as being fairly worthless, but I've had good results with it too.
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Bike_pilot
Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2011 - 02:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good information. When I was turning wrenches (on cages) for a living the BG treatment stuff (similar thing, one can to spray in the intake, another that gets sucked in via special tool and vacuum system, another to go in the gas tank) seemed to work really well for similar carbon-buildup issues. I suspect the seafoam stuff is probably similar.
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Fltwistygirl
Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2011 - 04:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

We are huge fans of seafoam. Learned about it when we were schooling ourselves on the quirks of owning a K75. Use it at home as well as on the training bikes/trikes at the school. We don't even mess with the small cans any more, buy it in the gallon jug.

Not sure where it is produced but their sales are based in Eden Prairie, MN.

Stand behind their product too:
"Your money's worth or your money back"
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Bluzm2
Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2011 - 07:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Seafoam works. Period.
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Portero72
Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2011 - 10:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How much did you use? And what was your technique for the intake?
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Andymnelson
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 08:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Technique? Pour it down the intake with the bike running until your problems go away....and do it outside, NOT in the garage!
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Chorizo
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 09:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are you saying pour it down the air intake?
Increase idle while doing so?
Im interested because my uly has been pinging
a bit lately. I thought it was the hot weather.
The other day on 100 degree ride I added octane boost on the road and it did the trick.
A friend has a Sportster and he says "they ping a bit, dont worry" Should we expect a little pingin?}
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Hughlysses
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 09:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just don't pour a SLUG down the intake or you may hydro-lock the engine and that will NOT end well. From Seafoam's website:

quote:

To clean carbon and varnish deposits from the tops of cylinders and the backs of intake valves, add 1 oz. Sea Foam® to each gallon of fuel. Sea Foam® will slowly re-liquefy the varnish and gum deposits that hold carbon together.

To remove carbon and varnish deposits more quickly, Sea Foam® can be induced directly into the combustion chamber via the following method. With the engine warmed up and running, SLOWLY POUR 1/3 to ˝ can of Sea Foam® down the carburetor throat or into any main manifold vacuum line that DISTRIBUTES EVENLY TO ALL CYLINDERS. Note that some newer induction systems, like those found on Vortec and Subaru “H” style engines, do not have any vacuum line that distribute evenly. Consequently, this process should only be attempted by technicians with a comprehensive understanding of the engine’s induction system or use Sea Foam® Spray through the throttle body (described in a different section of this web site).

Once the product has been applied, turn off the engine and allow the Sea Foam® to heat soak for a minimum of 10 minutes. At this time, Sea Foam® will dissolve the varnish deposits that hold carbon together. After allowing the Sea Foam® to soak, restart the engine in a WELL VENTILATED AREA as exhaust will be extreme for a short time. Drive aggressively for 2 to 5 miles to allow all the atomized carbon to be safely expelled from the system. REPEAT Sea Foam® TREATMENT AS NECESSARY.



Pictures and more instructions here: http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use-sea-foam-mo tor-treatment.html

Note that your engine will blow out MASSIVE QUANTITIES of white smoke until the Seafoam clears out of the intake and combustion chambers.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My father said that an old windex sprayer full of water to the intake will clean up an engine pretty well.

What is actually in seafoam? Is it just alcohol?
remember "dri-gas"?
That was just alcohol.
Perhaps it's been reformulated now since the gas already has far more alcohol than a little bottle would add.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 10:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Googled a bit and found it:

25% Cleaner>Naptha
60% Stabilizer>Kerosine
15% Oxygenate> Isopropyl Alcohol (common Rubbing Alcohol)

So zippo lighter fluid, rubbing alcohol, and kerosene.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 10:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Natex,
Straight from the MSDS (material safety data sheet)www.seafoamsales.com/component/option,com.../id,26 6/task.../view,file/
Pale oil - 40 to 60%
Naphtha - 25 to 35%
Isopropyl alcohol - 10to 20%

What is pale oil-
PALE OILS are light coloured, non-staining naphthenic oils refined from specially selected wax-free crude through the use of severe hydrogenation. This process produces oils of excellent initial colour and colour stability while maintaining their compatibility with most synthetic elastomers.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

HA! I didn't even think of just going to the site and looking up the MSDS. : )

Wikkid smaht!

So how does "pale oil" differ from heating oil, Diesel, Kerosene, Jet fuel?

I've never even heard the term "pale oil".
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Buewulf
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 12:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pale oil is an oil that has had the color refined out of it and can range from clear to a light brownish-yellow color. It is a very general term, and there are many different formulations. They are usually naphthenic oils. The purpose of the pale oil in Seafoam would be to keep the viscosity low so it is easy to pour and control the violent combustion of the naptha and alcohol (and also presenting a "clean" looking color). Kerosene, lamp oil or diesel would work fine for this, but pale oils are typically sold as machine oils. Sewing machine oil is probably the most readily availble "true" pale oil. I believe pneumatic tool oil is also a pale oil.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 12:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've read that pale oils tend to taste bitter because they have lots of hops. Stout oils on the other hand have a coffee or chocolaty taste.

Oh, wait... (beer snob humor)
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 05:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hugh beat me to it. LOL
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Ourdee
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Where is the easiest place to buy naphtha?
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 09:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

CVS is a good place to buy naptha.

bos


I am seriously going to make some this weekend and feed it to my 1990 Toyota Pickup : )
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Ourdee
Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 11:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That was my thought. Except , 02 jeep.
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Buewulf
Posted on Friday, September 09, 2011 - 04:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you can't get a hold of pale oil, use diesel. It has a viscosity closer to actual Seafoam than the others. Since the pale oil is also the part of the solution that likely lubricates in Seafoam, #2 diesel should make a good substitute. And don't use alcohol that you purchase at the pharmacy. It contains too much water and your solution won't mix well.
4:2:1 ratios Diesel/Pale Oil:Naptha:Alcohol should be an easy way to get the mixture right.
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Andymnelson
Posted on Friday, September 09, 2011 - 04:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...or for the once in 10 years year you need it, just buy a can of SeaFoam : p
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Buewulf
Posted on Friday, September 09, 2011 - 05:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...or for the once in 10 years year you need it, just buy a can of SeaFoam

There is no fun in that for the weekend mad scientists on this board! That is like telling you to take your bike to the dealer for an oil change.
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Ulynut
Posted on Friday, September 09, 2011 - 05:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...or for the once in 10 years year you need it, just buy a can of SeaFoam

+1

You might save $2.00 by making your own, but you'll have to run around to find the stuff, take your time to mix it up in the correct ratio, probably make a mess doing it.......etc......etc.

In the long run, what did you save?
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Friday, September 09, 2011 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Duuuude. It's not about saving money anymore!
But you're right.

I should just buy some. I have to fix the Toyo to get a sticker hopefully this weekend.
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Johnboy777
Posted on Friday, September 09, 2011 - 07:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I always wanted to make my own water - it's just Hydrogen and Oxygen, right?

.
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Crusty
Posted on Friday, September 09, 2011 - 08:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Drink a few beers; you'll make plenty of water.
I'm with Andy on this; for all the trouble of gathering the ingredients, you can buy a bottle and have your combustion chambers cleaned before you even started measuring and mixing.
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Ourdee
Posted on Saturday, September 10, 2011 - 03:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Odd, that was what I was starting to think. Then started thinking again. Why do you need to put more alcohol in with the 10% alky/gas? Just ronson and diesel at the pump? It's for my jeep running low octane gas.

I'll just get seafoam for the bike!
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Darth_villar
Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2011 - 03:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Careful Johnboy, Di-Hydrogen monoxide kills thousands of people every year. Be careful with those chemicals!
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2011 - 03:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've read that pale oils tend to taste bitter because they have lots of hops. Stout oils on the other hand have a coffee or chocolaty taste.

Oh, wait... (beer snob humor)
]

So stout oils need to be dispensed with nitrogen?
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7873jake
Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2011 - 06:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Di-hydrogen monoxide is wreaking havoc in some areas of NY and PA. Atmospheric di-hydrogen monoxide is some baaaad stuff!!
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Kenm123t
Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2011 - 06:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

over exposure can kill you how ever it does have uses Rocco uses it in fire supression systems cant be good for you
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