| Author | Message | ||
     Discochris |
I just installed a set of Hella FF50 driving lights on my '08XT (I need to get pictures of my setup). I use the voltmeter on my Garmin 478 to check charging. With the lights, GPS, and a J&M 2003 CB, I'm dropping to right around 12v at idle, and about 12.9 at highway speed. This seems low, and has me a bit concerned if I need to run my heated grips or Gerbing jacket when the weather turns colder here. I'm wondering if the voltmeter on the Garmin isn't that accurate, or if I'm really using that much juice. Without the aux lights on (but with the J&M and GPS), I'm always around 13.8-14.1 at highway speeds, and have been since I bought the bike. Any thoughts? | ||
| Rwven |
Before I installed my 35W HIDs the computer would shut down the aux. circuit ("cigarette lighter" plugs) at idle if I was running my driving lights and my high and low beams at the same time. The answer to your question is, Yes our charging systems are that weak. | ||
| Miibradley |
Any upgrades available for this? | ||
| Hughlysses |
You can always swap to an 06/07 3-phase stator and VR if you need more output. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
I have an '08. 100w of Motolight driving lights, electric vest, GPS, and heated grips, all run together with no problems. | ||
| Od_cleaver |
DiscoChris, I think that you found a good reason to buy a DVM. I suggest measuring the battery voltage directly at the battery. This way you remove any voltage drops in the bike's wiring. Did you run a separate circuit (both ground and +12V) for your aux lighting or did you use the bike's wiring? Buell is not noted for using the best ground circuits or excessively large wires and connectors. If others have been successful with these lights, it could be that your wiring voltage drops are killing you. | ||
| Rwven |
Mark, Do the math. If you add up your total load and compare it to the rated output you will find that you have probably overloaded the system, especially at idle. Somewhere on this board there is a list of what it takes to run the fuel pump, fan, ignition etc..... | ||
| Discochris |
Od_cleaver. That's what I was wondering. If I'm not seeing a drop somewhere down the line. I had a datel voltmeter on my last bike for this same reason. I think I'll be looking at adding one. Yes, I'm running separate circuits to an aux fuse panel for all accessories and separate grounds to the frame. The only thing I tied into the bike's wiring for was a line to trip the relay for the lights. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
According to the service manual, the charging system for the '08 & later has an output of 32A @ 3600 rpm. That translates into over 450 watts. With 100 for the driving lights, 45 for the vest, 20 for the grips, there is plenty left over to keep the bike running and the battery charged. While there is certainly a discharge at idle, probably up to about 2000 rpm, the battery is there to provide reserve power during the time when things are running low. If there is a reason why idling time would need to be greatly extended, it would not be an issue to switch off some of the load. That said, it has never been a problem. In over 45k miles of use, the only time that my bike ever shut down AUX power was when the stator failed (and that was a good thing, the GPS switching off gave me plenty of warning that a problem had occurred. | ||
| Froggy |
You forgot the stock lights, ECM, fan, sensors, IAC, dash, horn, and probably something else. Is there room for accessories? Yes, but not as much as you think, and thats assuming your charging system is outputting at 100%. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
The bike itself needs about 150 watts. I hooked up an ammeter today and noted these readings: Key on, engine cut-off off: 4.3A draw Engine cut-off on: 10.2A draw while the fuel pump primed the system, dropped to 4.7A when the pump shut down. Disconnected the stator and started the bike. Idle draw was 9.75A. At 3600 rpm, the current draw increased to 10.2A Next I turned everything on, both headlights, driving lights, GPS, and grip heaters. The current draw increased to 15.8A With system voltage at 14.5V, that total draw is about 230 watts. Still plenty of headroom with a system capacity of 460 watts. The bike alone, no extras, needs only about 150 watts to run. With the stator reconnected, at idle, with low beam, driving lights, GPS, and grip heaters on, there was a 1.2A charge. At 3600 rpm, the system was able to put 4.4 amps into the battery. When I switched the extras off, the charge rate bumped up 6.5A, but only for a few seconds. When the charge rate stabilized, it settled at 4.4A. It seems that there is more than sufficient charging capacity to keep everything happy. If I had dug out my electric vest, I am sure that the idle reading would have been a discharge (the vest can draw nearly 5A), but the running capacity is more than sufficient. This data is for an '08 Ulysses (single phase alternator) with a gel battery from Cycle Gear. |
