| Author | Message | ||
     Electraglider_1997 |
A couple of those wimpy 10-32 screws on the fairing were just spinning in circles instead of tightening so I tapped them out to 1/4-20. Just tapped right through the smaller original thread, no problema. Used stainless steel socket head cap screws. I think they lend the ULY a tougher, more industrial look. Also I had to open up the holes to 5/16ths on the black plastic fairing cover to make this work. Otherwise it was impossible to line up the 1/4-20 screws with their threaded holes. I also used a rubber and stainless steel washer combo as seen in the photos.    | ||
| Rwven |
I keep mine well coated with anti-seize. So far so good! | ||
| Uly_dude |
Nice mod EG. I agree, those little screws are a b#tch to start, even with your fingers. They are too small, and the plastic flyscreen is not exactly spot on either with the holes. The flyscreen actually has to flex to make the holes line up, which makes it even more difficult to start them. Do they make any whistling noises on the freeway? | ||
| Johnboy777 |
Hey EG, any chance we can see how those lights of yours are mounted? Thanks. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Uly_dude, No whistle that I've noticed and if they do the deer will hear me coming. Johnboy, Those lights are my own design and are mounted with 6" zinc coated 3/8" carriage bolts courtesy of Tractors Supply. Photos here http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/516110.html | ||
| Mnviking |
I think they lend the ULY a tougher, more industrial look. +1 They definitely look like they're ready for battle. Nice work. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I was looking at my open turnsignal holes yesterday (I'm using CR mirrors with signals in them now) and was thinking of that same light mounting position. A couple of small HID units, running off the high beam, would be pretty cool for occasional "nobody else on the road" use. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My fairing holes were tapped very poorly from the factory and it was always a struggle to put them back in. I just happened to have the correct tap size and ran it through all six and it makes a big difference. I can start them all by hand and I haven't had any issues with them rattling loose yet. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Natex, I chased the 10-32 threads many times but some of mine just plain gave up the ghost. At least you'll know that all is not lost if yours crap out. | ||
| Reepicheep |
You could just tap them out one size up, and go with the next size up torx button head screw as well. You probably could not even tell it wasn't stock. | ||
| Trevd |
Those photos are fakes! The Uly wasn't even invented in 04/04/2004! | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Trevd, The secret is out. Erik didn't invent the first ULY, I did. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Everytime the batteries crap out in that camera, the time reverts. I just now took the time to correct that time stamp on the camera. | ||
| Ronmold |
You want tough? I got your tougher look right here!   | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Nice! | ||
| Discochris |
Ron - are those the ones I saw at Mavericks last month? I'm seriously thinking about doing the mod with studs rather than continuing to mess with the flyscreen torx bolts. Any hints? | ||
| Ronmold |
Yes, I did the stud mod w/10-32 studs. Those are 5mm standard windscreen spikes that I cut the threaded shaft off and drilled & tapped to make them into 10-32 nuts. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
I'm going to have to do something soon myself. I like the look of the 1/4" socket head bolts. I am concerned if there is enough material on the outside of the casting to allow the larger diameter. Just had a lil chuckle imagining spike nuts... | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Panhead, There is way way more than enough material to go 1/4-20 as you'll see when you take off the fairing cover. The top screw on each side needs to be only 1/2 inch long and the others 3/4 inch (I used 1" long instead of 3/4 but 3/4 is plenty). | ||
| Ronmold |
I would recommend the 10-32 studs, got them from another badwebber but forgot his screen name, have his email though. You can make your own from some 10-32 SS bolts then screw in with some red loctite and cut the heads off w/ a dremel & cut-off wheel. The studs let you put the flyscreen in place and it stays there while putting the nuts on. I used some polished brass acorn nuts before upgrading to the spikes or you could get chrome! Just can't have enough chrome on the Uly. | ||
| Greenlanternjeep |
I think i'll copy your 1/4 20 bolts and driving light idea as far as the blinkers go i will do the same thing i did on my xb9. Just go to Radio Shack and pick up some individual leds and holders and install them in the hand guards they work great and are very visable.  | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Greenlantern, That looks fantastic. Can you give us a tutorial on how you make those work. Costs? | ||
| Etennuly |
I like the idea of studs with nuts there. I use my six screws to help hold my BAW in place and have had to be super careful starting them and treating the allen head screws like they were a prize. Thanks for the idea.  | ||
| Discochris |
There's a number of places on the bike that I think studs would work better than screws. There are just so many places where we're threading into soft aluminum, and it's too easy to strip out the threads. I just installed a homemade light bar and driving lights this weekend (I'll be posting photos soon) and I know I stripped out the threads on the fork brace, and if I have to remove it, I'll have to re-tap the threads. In hindsight, I should have done it with studs there too. Oddly enough, the lightbar mod was only the second time I'd removed the fly screen (I put the relay under there) and I had no issues with that. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I did something similar to EG, about 2 years ago. Tapped mine out and put in helicoils so I'm threading the screws into steel threads, not aluminum. Also went with larger heads and washers. I had a pic on here somewhere but can't find it...but if you look closely here you can see them:  |
