| Author | Message | ||
     Discochris |
Apparently I'd missed on here that the torque specs in the shop manual are wrong, and sure enough, when I went to change the oil today, the threads were stripped. ARRGH. So I ordered a timesert today. Might as well do it right. For those of you that have used them, any advice? Anything I should know so as not to screw this up? | ||
| Idaho_buelly |
Do it all by hand..They work fantastic! Nice clean job..Good luck  | ||
| Discochris |
In a related note, does anyone know where a common place to pick up the o-ring for the drain plug is if the dealer doesn't have one, since mine shredded of course. Would a hardware store or auto parts store have a similar o-ring? | ||
| Idaho_buelly |
Any auto parts store should.. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I don't even use the o-ring, just wrap with teflon pipe tape. | ||
| Uly_man |
I use the golden hair of a 15th Century virgin myself. She, of course, knows not of the love of Buell or that I a Knight of Road Warriors "do-want-to-give-her-one". On the other hand? | ||
| Brucen |
I used a timesert when I stripped my drain plug. I set the bike on it's side to do the repair. Make sure you use grease on the end of the drill & tap to catch the metal chips before they fall into the tank. I did a quarter or half turn of the drill and tap and pulled it out to wipe off the end & replace the grease. When done I put oil in the tank & immediately drained it to flush out any chips that did get in. | ||
| Tootal |
If you don't want to use oil to flush just use some kerosene if you have some around. Harley actually recommended a kerosene flush on the old oil tanks. Grease on the drill and tap is great advise. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Uly_man, Were they the short hairs?  | ||
| Teeps |
The o'ring used is not a "standard" size. But any Harley dealer should have the o'rings in stock, or a complete drain plug. I've been using an aluminum drain plug washer,(I have a bunch from a former life) and the liquid thread sealant called out in the manual. Just have to ream the whole out to fit the plug. I torque the drain plug to 12~15 lbs/ft. and call it good. | ||
| Ourdee |
I'm a big fan of magnets in the oil plugs. | ||
| Prior |
I've got a Timesert kit that I'd gladly send you to do your repair if you cover shipping and pick up a few extra inserts to toss in the box. got this a while back from another Badwebber specifically for this occasion. Would probably cost you $15 instead of $100 for the kit. Shoot me a PM if interested. | ||
| Uly_dude |
Hey Disco. I did both my drain holes with the Timesert kit that Prior is offering to let you use. The kit has some extras and is alot less expensive than buying new. Thanks for chiming in Prior Guy. As far as O rings, they don't work the best with the new hole because there is now no recess for the O ring. I picked up some 1/2 inch copper washers at Auto Zone that seem to work well. Take your time and read the directions, the kit works great(so far). You can get all crazy about the metal bits in the tank, however remember they are little bits of soft aluminum. I don't think they'll scar any steel components........ I'm sure I'll get a reaction to that statement! | ||
| Scooter808484 |
I know this isn't the right way, but... I just bought one of those oversized plugs and used it. It's been over 30,000 miles now with no issues. But I still might use Prior's Timesert after Discochris is done with it. | ||
| Prior |
Like I said, I bought this from Uly_dude so others can use it. It'll fit in a USPS flate rate box ($6.00) and the inserts themselves are maybe a buck. I should just order more and throw them in the kit- there's 3 in there now. If one of you does want to use it, speak quickly, I'll be out of town Wednesday-Thursday and all of next week. Prior | ||
| Discochris |
I appreciate the offer. Unfortunately, I already placed the order for the kit myself, but now I will also have one that if anyone would like to use... it should be here late this week. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Reinstalling the drain plug using a allen wrench (not an allen driver on a ratchet) makes it much harder to over torque. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I'm a big fan of magnets in the oil plugs. Problem is...those swingarms are aluminum and same for the drill chips he'll be creating....magnets aren't worth a damn on aluminum. Bits of piston ring and valve seat? Maybe...but oil tank rethread chunks? Nope. | ||
| Discochris |
quick question - can this be tapped out without pulling the exhaust? There seems to be no way to turn a tap handle and have it clear the tailpipe. I'm starting to get seriously frustrated here. | ||
| Ronmold |
The exhaust from a shop vac (clean the filter first!) into the swingarm fill-hole should force virtually all the metal chips out as you tap. Did this on a truck engine once when doing a sparkplug helicoil. Ducktaped the hose well to the carb & turned the crank until the intake valve opened. Nothing was falling into that jug! | ||
| Brucen |
I had to use an extension on the end of the tap. With the bike on it's side I had a straight shot to the drain hole. Use hand tools & go slow and it will work out. | ||
| Discochris |
Where did you find the correct tap extension? Most that I'm seeing are too small | ||
| Frankrizzo |
I used a ratchet for some of the work installing the time-cert. I did it with the bike on its kick stand and without removing anything. I carefully put some marks on the swingarm with a sharpie to help me keep my angle accurate. I went slow and careful and it turned out great. | ||
| Uly_dude |
Disco, I had to move my muffler to the side also for the swing arm drain hole. I kept er on the side stand though the whole time. | ||
| Discochris |
I found something that seemed to work. It's a GatorGrip universal socket, which allowed me to use an extension. I was a little nervous, but using the guide that comes with the set and taking it slow, it seemed to work fine. I just have to put in the insert, but I want to get some red loctite first. I echo those who said you need to use cutting fluid or grease - very important. | ||
| Portero72 |
Well, following SM torque specs today, I managed to strip my drain plug hole as well. POS. Anyone know where I can pick up a time-sert kit near Austin, Tx? | ||
| Prior |
I've got one I can send you to borrow, but have to act quick, I leave for vacation in the am. Id ask you to cover shipping both ways and get a few extra inserts for the kit to throw in. Probably $15 all said and done. Pm me if interested. Prior | ||
| Portero72 |
Thanks, Prior, but I am going to try and find one locally. Seems a good thing to have on hand. Enjoy that vacation! | ||
| Discochris |
I ordered mine from threadkits.com. It took about three business days to get to Minnesota from California via priority mail. The correct kit number is 0122A. Total cost was $110. I would highly recommend this over a helicoil. Having worked with helicoils a couple times before, the timesert is much sturdier and far less likely to back out. I'm suspecting I might have to do the same for the primary plug when I do my 20,000 mile service. So far, it looks good - I tightened the plug only to about 14 ft lbs and used thread sealer on the plug. |
