| Author | Message | ||
     Skifastbadly |
Ok having replaced my fork seal I was feeling "all motorcycle mechanic" so yesterday, with 11K on the clock I figured I better change the oil, tranny fluid, and plugs. No problem, because I'm Mr. Super motorcycle mechanic right? Nature punishes hubris. I've been through this before, on my 07, no big deal, the oil change is brainless, I have the right tool to reach down and loosen the rear plug, I know to use a 5/8" open end wrench on the front. All I have to do is get this plug wire off the rear plug. No problem. It.....hmmm. Ok, I don't remember this being quite so hard. What did I do last time? Ah yes, I believe I removed the wire from the coil first and then....uh..hmm, this is on good, I'll just give it a tug... SHIT. Yep, broke it. Nothing like seeing that frayed bit at the end of the wire and knowing, since it's Sunday, that I'm not riding this bike today. So, two questions: 1) How do you get that thing off without ripping it? Is there a 'best practice'? 2) Part of the problem seems to be that the connector was on really tight, and maybe stuck. Do you guys out dielectric grease on it to keep it from forming too tight of a connection? As usual, thanks. | ||
| Johnboy777 |
I just so happened to contact Loctite recently with regard to dielectric grease and whether it should be used directly on the contacts. Dielectric by definition, means its a poor conductor (insulator) and I was curious as to its use directly on the contacts themselves. Here's their reply: John, Yes, you can coat the contacts with the Dielectric Grease as well. This will offer a corrosion resistant coating and prevent arcing of current before the contacts are engaged, upon engagement you will have metal to metal contact and complete your circuit. I have attached the Technical Data Sheet for your review as well. Kind regards, Braydon Henkel Loctite Tech Service ___________________________ Subject: Dielectric Grease Description: Greetings, With regard to Dielectric Grease, are the contacts coated, as well? Or are the contacts not coated? Thanks for your reply, John This came off of their 'Technical Data Sheet' For spark plug boots 1. Make sure ignition system is off. 2. Remove heavy grease, dirt or oil with a clean rag. 3. Coat inside of spark plug boot with a thin layer of grease. 4. Coat ceramic part of plug. 5. Snap boot onto plug. Make sure fit is tight. Contacts are not mentioned? (Message edited by johnboy777 on July 11, 2011) | ||
| Griffmeister |
How to get it off without ripping it? Too late for that, huh? I think you know what the problem is but you need to state it right. The connector is not stuck, the rubber boot is stuck to the porcelain. And as you suspected, you need to grab the boot and twist it until it gives. Of course right now you can cut it because the wire's junk. You need to search for posts here on spark plug boot pliers, I think I remember some people finding pliers at stores like Auto Zone. I've also known people to use those long reach needle nose pliers. The trick is finding a pair with the right bend to line up with the boot.Unfortunately I haven't found the right bend yet, I had to rotate the engine for other work and did the plugs then, not recommended.  Maybe someone has a quick link to the other spark plug posts, anyone? | ||
| Trevd |
Once you get the boot off, you don't necessarily need new wires - you could just put the plug wires back together... which is what I ended up doing last year when I pulled the same stunt as you. I carry around a backup set of wires just in case, but haven't needed it. Here's my experience: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/580992.html | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Life's a cruel teacher, she gives you the test, and then the lesson. Yes, those pliers are exactly what I need. Believe it or not, the Harley shop here had four wires in stock. I bought two. They are still a bear to get on, the elves must have really small hands. |
