| Author | Message | ||
     Mayerhd |
08 Uly, Aug 07 build date. The other day I noticed I actually did have a light out. "No worries", I thought, "I'll just ride with the high beam on until I can pick up a new bulb." 1 day later the high beam is burned out. "Weird", I think, I've used the high beam about 6 times since I bought the bike. But I pick up a new bulb, (they only have one H7 in stock), I replace the low beam, ride it to work 1 day (12 miles each way), and that low beam bulb is now burned out. I think, "Larger forces are at work here." Last night I put a Voltmeter on the battery, start the bike, voltage climbs to 18.4 for about 30-45 seconds, then drops to 9 and climbs to 14.7. I turn the bike off, start it, voltage again climbs to 18.4, holds for about 20 seconds this time, then drops to 14.7 and stays. Once it gets to 14.7 it remains constant no matter the rpms. Maybe the spike on start up is normal? So, for those of you who have been through this, what do you think or recommend? I'm not awesome at electronics, so if you could formulate your advice like you were talking to a 3rd grader it would help! | ||
| Andymnelson |
Voltage Regulator. The stator puts out higher voltages of A/C power, it is the regulator's job to convert it to D/C and regulate it to 14.4 volts. If you have higher than that, it can only mean a bad regulator. That said, you may have a bad stator that took out the regulator! Do the stator tests while you're at it. | ||
| Andymnelson |
Some info I have previously posted for those chasing electrical gremlins: Do you have a service manual? I would start by looking at all grounding points- especially behind the flyscreen and the ones on the seat rail and seat rail to frame. Clean them all up real good and use star washers when re-assembling. There are a few pretty simple tests to test the stator, do those if it is suspect. Next I would test your voltage regulator- if you have 14 volts or less then it should be good. Next I would examine your 77 connector. Next I would look at the relays (I also had a bad one of those). You can swap relays around to see if the problem moves to another area of the bike. I eventually just swapped all relays for new ones since they are only a few $$ each. From there about all you can have go wrong is wire shorts/breaks and bad sensors or connectors. The stator tests are: 1) Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator socket. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale. A good stator will show no continuity (∞ ohms) across all stator sockets and ground. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which must be replaced. 2) Check resistance across stator sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 3-1. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale. Resistance across the stator sockets should be 0.1- 0.3 ohms. If the resistance is lower, the stator is damaged and must be replaced. NOTE Verify that meter reads 0 ohms when probes are shorted together. If not, subtract lowest value to resistance value of stator. 3) AC Output Check Connect an AC voltmeter across stator sockets 1-2. Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should be 32-40 volts AC. (approximately 16-20 volts per 1000 RPM). Repeat test across stator sockets 2-3 and 1-3. 2. Compare test results to specifications. If the output is below specifications, charging prob- lem could be a faulty rotor or stator. | ||
| Mayerhd |
Thanks Andy! I do have a service manual, but I've never really had to explore the electrical side of the bike. I'm going to print your info and start trouble shooting tonight. I really hope its just the VR.... | ||
| Andymnelson |
The stator test seem daunting, but are really simple tests. The connector is behind the same cover as the 77 connector- not sure when they corrected the 77 connector from the factory, but it might be worth a look at that as well. Post up here if you have any troubles, we'll help you through it! | ||
| Raceautobody |
08+ did away with the "77 connector". The VR connectors are now attached to the left scoop. Al (Message edited by raceautobody on June 30, 2011) | ||
| Andymnelson |
Good to know. Is it all 2008+ by model year, or are there production dates to be concerned with? I assume the change was made with all of the motor changes- was that also by MY? | ||
| Pdento |
I had the same problem . and I replaced the voltage regulator a few weeks ago and it has seemed to cure the problem . New regulator runs around 80 bucks at the dealer. I put dielectric greese on all of my connections as well | ||
| Mayerhd |
Pdento - did you pull any readings prior to and after you replaced the VR? Andy, I have the service manual but it only refers me to the Electrical Service manual, which I don't have. I will utilize the info you already posted. As an aside, did you get your gremlins worked out? ECM - Relay? | ||
| Andymnelson |
I diagnosed all of my issues using the standard service manual and the help of this board. The service manual does give stator tests, and honestly if the stator is good, as well as the connection from stator to VR, and you are getting too high of voltage....it's a bad VR. If too low, then either it's a stator (which you have the tests for), a bad VR, bad connection, or bad grounds. Yup, my bike is back up and running! Bad stator for me, and a flaky relay. I re-did all of my grounds, replaced all relays, new stator and a bunch of other things. She runs like a champ now! | ||
| Raceautobody |
08 electrical diag manual only has AC output check for stator. a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator stator wiring. b. Connect an AC voltmeter across stator connector sockets 1 and 2. c. Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should be 40-56 volts AC (approximately 20-28 volts per 1000RPM). If the output is below specifications, charging problem could be a faulty rotor or stator. If output is good, charging problem might be faulty voltage regulator. Replace as required. pg 1-32 Al | ||
| Yamafreak |
I also have a charging problem. O8XT June 08 build date. It would charge fine then not charge at all. Pulled the left side air scoop and 77 and 46 stator connector AC output is about 40-56 volts AC (approximately 20-28 volts per 1000RPM). The 77 output is .66 to 1.66 volts so it must be a bad regulator RIGHT???? Could not be a bad ground right??? I did not do the ohms test, I am not that smart! So what do you think,get the new regulator? I love my bike and all the help from my Forum Bothers. | ||
| Yamafreak |
should I be getting 14.5 volts dc from my my 77 connector when running, I get nothing now. Voltage regulator on back order until july 17.  | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Might a H-D Sportster regulator do the trick? Similar size and is mounted by two bolts and 90 degrees rotation to the ULY mounting. Uly is mounted side to side and Sportster is up and down to fit between the frame rails. I don't have the Sportster service manual so I can't say what the connectors look like in comparison to the ULYs. My wife has a 2007 Sportster and I really should get a manual for it but haven't. Been dead-on reliable for her for 12,000 miles. | ||
| Yamafreak |
A Sportster Regulator could work but the bike can sit for a few weeks. I Hope the new reg will do the trick. | ||
| Mayerhd |
Finally got around to checking the Stator, 49-50 V AC at approx 2K. Plugged the VR back in, 12.4V DC at the battery. I'm guessing it's the VR, time to place an order! | ||
| Yamafreak |
Mayerhd...Good luck..VR on back order. | ||
| Yamafreak |
Well the VR is still on back order, but the Good People at Bumpus saved the day. They had one in stock and got it to me in four days!  | ||
| Djohnk |
I was thinking about upgrading the voltage regulator on my 2007 uly to this: http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Re gulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm You are supposed to wire this directly to the battery (bypassing the infamous 77 connector) with an in-line fuse. It supposedly is more robust and easier on the stator. Has anyone tried it on a Uly? I have seen where several 1125's are now using it. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Those regulators are interesting. Prices aren't too bad either. | ||
| Yamafreak |
Has anyone moved the VR from the stock location? Mine is one inch from my motor. Not good in stop and go with this heat wave. There must be a cooler place. I think mine cooked from not moving.The back rubber was all cracked up and hard.  | ||
| Lastcyclone |
Anyone have the part number for the stock VR? Thanks, I'm blowing bulbs now too. Why only the low beam though? Why not both? | ||
| Mayerhd |
Lastcyclone, start your bike with the high beam on, you'll get to buy one of those too. At least that is what did it for me. | ||
| Frankieboytwo |
Installed the Shindengen VR yesterday on my '08 Uly and am happy to report no more voltage spikes/dips and best of all no more flickering hids. I mounted it just slightly below the stock location figuring it needed all the cooling it could get and that is probably the best place for cooling although it is now a little further away from the engine which will help. I removed the left side bolt/nut where the oil cooler bracket attaches to the silver brace rod that connects to the right side of the engine. I had to use a slightly smaller bolt to get through the VR mounting hole - a 2" M7-1.0. The VR isn't wide enough to use the right side bolt location, but with the one bolt and a discretely placed tie-wrap, it is very secure. | ||
| Chief_sitting_buell |
i had similar issues, suspected the 77 connector on my 06 uly but it tested out well. the problem persisted and next time i tested it , it pointed to a bad VR. I repeated the test on several different occasions with differing results - sometimes good, sometimes bad. the last time it dawned on me to manipulate the 77 while it was hooked up to the meter. the needle on the voltmeter jumped all over the place. i cut out the connector and hard-wired it with a posilock. that was over a year ago and it has remained "fixed" . it could have been the connector, it could have been the wires on either side. the connector contacts looked perfect - no melting or corrosion. I'll never know for sure, but I do know its fixed | ||
| Frankieboytwo |
Here's a pic of my install.  | ||
| Lastcyclone |
My problem is still on going. Sucks having to learn the hard way. First low beam went last week. I replaced it the next day thinking of course it was just used up and at least two to three years old and had 20,000 miles in it. Put in another, drove two miles and out it went. Logic told me, bad bulb, or I put it in wrong, the short cut way with out removing front screen or head light assembly. My fingers still hurt a bit from that one. After the third bulb and $30 later I knew something was up. I have since checked all the wires behind the fly screen and they are good. I have opened and examined the 77 and all other connectors behind the front sprocket cover, they all appear OK as well. I've checked all the grounding points, they seem to be clean and solid too. After doing the research here and Googlalizing the situation I did come across this.Y1312.02A8 I didn't know anything about this. Or the info. that Harley apparently made available then. http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Media/downloa ds/Service/isheets/-J04665.pdf Anyway, the connector still looked good from the outside. I have since ordered this retrofit connector kit and a new regulator. Should have it by Tues. I do have the service book and a volt meter, but I too am a little intimidated by messing with all things electric. I'm still really bugged that this ONLY seems to impacting the low beam. I have been riding around for the past four days with the high beam. The bike is running very well, no other issues and nothing else seems to be impacted by what I'm guessing is a bad regulator. Prior to the problem, I had reset the TPS about two weeks back and changed the plugs shortly after that. And gave it a wash the next day. I had been riding in some very excessive heat for five days in some traffic. The 07 Uly has over 31,000 miles now. Sometimes I do put the headlight switch in between low and high to have them both on while riding in total darkness. Nothing else seems to be impacted by this problem. I guess the question I have is, if the voltage regulator goes bad, does it go by by degrees, will it get worse and eventually blow the high beam, etc. And for Andy, how do the relays play a part in all this. Do they some how regulate voltage to various components as well? Are those standard ones you can get at an auto parts store? This kind of issue can be very frustrating, I'm almost ready to take in to get repaired by someone, but not quite yet. Any other input would be appreciated. Thanks men. | ||
| Desert_bird |
Lstclne, sorry to read of your electrical gremlins. You utilize your Buell service manual. In it are detailed electrical charts which will help you trace wires and electrical systems. The VR does not correspond to any particular electrical component, rather it regulates voltage across the entire electrical system like the kidneys regulate and purify all the blood for the body. Bulb blow outs can be indicative of a hurting VR which is sending out too much juice. But you should also be having blown fuses at the box. An after market voltmeter such as a Kuryakyn would help you on the road to determine if you have an over/under-voltage issue. But you can determine that easily enough by running your motor and checking the voltage produced at different RPMs. A search here will give you plenty of resources on how to that. Also, check this site for more info on how to check that yourself: http://www.currenteffects.com/http://www.currenteffects.com/ No magic to it. Just care and systematic trouble shooting. Is your low beam wired into the parking light, stock wiring or what? The parking light circuit runs off the aux power line. You may have a short somewhere there which is blowing your low beam. As suggested, run the bike with the high beam (which should still be wired into the lights circuit/with fus at the box) to determine if you have over voltage all over the place or there is something funky with the low-beam circuit. Keep deducing from there. Best luck. DB | ||
| Frankieboytwo |
LC, my first indication of a problem started about a year ago. Occasionally, maybe once or twice a week, my hids would flicker for a split second and were then ok. Last week they would flicker multiple times, every day, sometimes staying out for 5-10 seconds at a time - scary at 70 in the dark. So in my case, it was a slow progression. At one point a couple months ago I thought the hids were the problem so I went back to stock bulbs and ended up blowing 3 or 4 of them like you, but both low and high beam. Put your meter on the battery while running and check the voltage varying rpm from 2000-5000. Voltage should stay around 14.3. Last week mine spiked to 17.5 and my hids went off - pretty good indication the VR was causing the problem. I'll bet you'll find the same. | ||
| Greenlanternjeep |
hey yamafreak my vr was moved by the original owner to the inside of the left saddlebag bracket |
