| Author | Message | ||
     Kevinaye |
Hey All, I am replacing my voltage regulator which comes with the new connector. So I just have to change the part of the 77 connector with the red and black wires running into it. Does anybody know which side the wires go into on the new connector? It's 50/50, but I do not want to mess this up! Should I solder the connections after crimping? I am totally green when it comes to electrical. Cheers. | ||
| Nillaice |
have you allready cut the wires from the connector? | ||
| Nillaice |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/597733.html?1286835290 | ||
| Kevinaye |
Thanks Nillaice, but I have already gone through the steps in Froggys instructions. I assume the problem is with the regulator. Now that I have it, I may as well replace it. Just not sure which side the red wire goes into.... | ||
| Nillaice |
Note: Looking into the face of the Voltage Regulator 12V OUTPUT connector, with the latch UP, Ground is on the left, Hot (12V) is on the right. They SHOULD have made the hot wire RED, but they made both black. | ||
| Andrejs2112 |
I had to REALLY look at the pics in the manual to figure it out. Dumb not to have made them different somehow. | ||
| Xbimmer |
The plug is numbered 1 and 2 to match the diagram in the manual, I don't remember which is which though... | ||
| Froggy |
Andrejs, thats why they upgraded it to a different connector  | ||
| Kevinaye |
Shit, I was hoping the red wire was supposed to go on the LEFT when the latch is facing up. Coz that is really how it looks to me. Unless I am not understanding the description (highly possible) The new connector is numbered,but I can't see anywhere if the red wire goes into the side numbered 1 or numbered 2. Can anybody fill me in? Cheers. | ||
| Teeps |
Do not solder crimp connectors. Make sure to use the correct crimping tool, as over crimp bad; under crimp worse. You say you're green on this type of repair; this repair is not the best one to learn on, IMO. | ||
| Ronmold |
I've never had a problem adding a judicious amount of solder to a crimped connection. Conversely, I've rarely had a problem with a properly crimped end either. The proper Deutch crimp tool for this job is big bucks though ($150?) and not worth it for 2 connections IMHO. A good needle-nose and a small amount of solder makes a fine connection although I concur that this particular high-current connection maybe isn't the best to practice on! (Message edited by ronmold on June 30, 2011) | ||
| Nsbuell |
I decided to check my own 77 connector last night and it was in fact badly melted. I replaced it with a pair of butt connectors and some shrink wrap so I think I've got that part taken care of. My question is: are the VR and stator issues (I have an 06 model) completely independent of the 77 connector or does fixing the connector provide some protection from the other two failing? I'm about to go on a 3,000 km ride and I'm trying to address possible problems before I leave. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Sorry for the less than clear pics, maybe these will help. This is a '06 77-connector.    "A" is "1" and "B" is "2". You can barely make out the A and B at the ends of the connectors, the "2 RED" is easier to see. (Message edited by xbimmer on June 30, 2011) | ||
| Nsbuell |
So, according to that diagram, the VR and stator are going to do what they're going to do regardless of the 77 connector. The only thing I may be saving is my battery? Is that correct? | ||
| Teeps |
Nsbuell Posted on Thursday, June 30, 2011 I replaced it with a pair of butt connectors and some shrink wrap so I think I've got that part taken care of. does fixing the connector provide some protection from the other two failing? Yes. Proper butt connectors (appropriate rating, with an environmental seal) is better than the original connector/terminal setup; IMO. | ||
| Hacksaw |
I just checked my 77 connector and it showed no signs of corrosion or heat affects so I put some electrical connection grease on the connections and put it back together. Should I go ahead and take out the connector and put in splices or leave it like it is? | ||
| Ronmold |
No, the battery & electrical system are part of the "load" that helps the regulator wrangle the excess wattage the stator puts out at higher RPM's. If the 77 fails, even marginally, the reg has to do it all and usually will toast. This can also fry the stator. Hacksaw, electrical dielectric grease is good to stop moisture/corrosion but the grease itself is an insulator and may actually increase the resistance of the connection. I think the main problem with the old 77 is plastic connector shell deformation resulting from engine heat & the random way that connector is crammed in there. Some may be in an area of more airflow and not prone to failure and others right up next to the engine and no airflow. Of course once the contacts lose tension the junction increases in resistance which makes them hotter causing even more deformation and soon complete failure. The updated connector does not rely on the plastic for tension, they're circular pins. I would advise you to replace it. | ||
| Hacksaw |
Thanks Ron. I think I will replace it. |
