| Author |
Message |
    
Froggy
| | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 11:03 am: | 
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The tire is nowhere in the way. Just disconnect the rear shock, jack up the bike, remove pump.
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Eternalbiker
| | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 11:19 am: |
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Nice! I love a good work around, my dealership mechanic removed the rear wheel. Guess that is by the book, I'll check when I get home. This seems much quicker! |
Ronmold
| | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 05:11 pm: |
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If you have the old dead fuses take a look at them. If it was just an overcurrent from a barely big enough fuse then the fusable material will just melt away from the middle. If it was a dead short the fusable material will be blown apart with a large gap between the poles and burn marks inside the fuse. |
Rwven
| | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 07:06 pm: |
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Ronmold,
That's how mine was (melted). I think that a slow blow type fuse should have been used for this application. Motor inrush currents can get pretty high. |
Natexlh1000
| | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2011 - 08:22 pm: |
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If it was an inrush situation, it would blow when the bike was first turned on.
The pump runs continuously while the engine is running.
Sounds like it's drawing 125% of the rated value of the fuse.
I've seen many blown fuses over the years.
Many will pop without any drama. They melt. That's how they work. |
Eulysses
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 07, 2011 - 01:25 am: |
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I am a March 2009 build...no issues. Wonder if the troubled bikes are earlier built? |
Sboggan
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 07, 2011 - 02:26 am: |
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I have an 09 XB12XP (can't recall build date) but I blew a fuse last summer while riding in hot weather with low fuel. Took it to the closest dealer (Hall's HD in Chico, CA-great shop) and they couldn't find anything. Hasn't happened since, although Seattle is rarely hot enough to trigger heat-related problems.
First I'd heard there was a bad batch of 09 pumps--I'll ask my dealer about a warranty swap. Seems like the MoFoCo should consider their liability in having a fuel pump crap out at an inopportune moment. |
Fltwistygirl
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 07, 2011 - 05:28 am: |
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Ahhh, another thread to watch closely. Both our 09 Ulys were built in May 09.
"I have an 09 XB12XP (can't recall build date) but I blew a fuse last summer while riding in hot weather with low fuel. Took it to the closest dealer (Hall's HD in Chico, CA-great shop) and they couldn't find anything. Hasn't happened since, although Seattle is rarely hot enough to trigger heat-related problems."
Lucky you. Living in a place with potential for fewer heat related issues in our next chapter of life is on the short list. Twisty roads would be a nice bonus.
"First I'd heard there was a bad batch of 09 pumps--I'll ask my dealer about a warranty swap. Seems like the MoFoCo should consider their liability in having a fuel pump crap out at an inopportune moment."
Keep us posted on how that discussion goes and of results. It's been our experience that unless there is a problem they are able to replicate, no dice Mr.Mice. Like some companies, they may not always be thinking in terms of consequences of their actions. B. |
Sirvait
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 07, 2011 - 11:13 pm: |
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Today the dealer told me they where trying to duplicate the problem. ???? Said the tech has driven it about 50mi or so and everything seems fine.
Should I let them keep it until they can find the problem or should I just go get my bike and keep some extra 10amp fuses in the tankbag?
Murphy's Law will win out here I'm thinking. |
Spotts
| | Posted on Monday, June 13, 2011 - 05:52 pm: |
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Did it again today!  75 degrees, 2 miles into low fuel light. I'll see if the dealer will put a '10 pump in when I take it in for the 1K service, but:
Will the 15 amp fuse I put in harm the electrics? |
Bikelit
| | Posted on Monday, June 13, 2011 - 06:13 pm: |
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If the wire size is smaller than 14 gauge, yes, you could melt everything.
My 08' has blown a fuse also, so it's more than a bad batch in 09'. |
Ronmold
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 14, 2011 - 08:42 pm: |
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Post a close-up picture of the blown fuse. Does it only do it at low-fuel? If there is a short on the fuel pump inside the tank and the fuel is low enough to trigger the low-fuel light, that arc-ing short could be exposed to air and, well, I hate to think what would happen, but your gas cap may take out a low-flying aircraft! Be careful. |
Jjr1125
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2011 - 11:43 am: |
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I had it happen again. This time the temperature was in the mid 60's. The fuel light was not on. I was traveling about 65-70 mph when I felt a shudder and it went dead.
Checked the fuses and there it was again. Popped in a new fuse and was back on the road.
I called the dealer today and they started to talk about checking for a bare wire. I mentioned the fuel pump issues but they want to look at it. It is still under warranty, so I made the appointment and will put it in their hands to fix.
I sure hope they fix it. This could really be a safety issue if the fuse decides to go while I am pulling out onto a busy roadway.
(Message edited by jjr1125 on June 15, 2011) |
Rwven
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2011 - 12:19 pm: |
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If the wire size is smaller than 14 gauge, yes, you could melt everything.
15 Amps is the maximum allowable over-current protection for 14 AWG copper wire with THHN insulation under the NEC. But the actual current rating in the NEC for that 14 AWG is 20 AMPS. Depending on the temperature rating of the insulation and the installation 14 gauge wire can carry 45 Amps without breaking down.
What I'd be concerned about is burning up the windings in the fuel pump motor if the overload is caused by a momentary stalling or sticking of the fuel pump. |
Bikelit
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2011 - 05:00 pm: |
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14 gauge is good to around 15 amps, more on a inductive motor, which the fuel pump is not.
I wrote "smaller than 14". What is 16 gauge rated at?
Run 45 amps through a 14 gauge wire, better have good circuit breakers, or better fire protection.
You should tread lightly if you want to tell these guys it's OK to run oversize fuses.
If it's not shorted, why not just check the load with an amp probe? |
Rwven
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 15, 2011 - 07:30 pm: |
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Bikelit,
I'm not recommending running oversize fuses. I'm an electrician so I'm interested in the topic.
16 gauge wire is rated to 22 amps in chassis wiring. This rating is based on wire being in free air, not bundled.
18 gauge is good to 16 amps .
So a 15 amp fuse probably would not provide protection for the motor windings, but it would blow well before the wiring harness burned up. The Uly's wiring has an insulation with a fairly high temperature rating....DAMHIK.
You'd need an in line ammeter, not an amprobe. The Current Transformers in amprobes only measure AC current. And be sure to use a shunt, as most VOM meters are only rated for 10 amps current or less. |
Sirvait
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 21, 2011 - 06:22 am: |
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small update:
Dealer has replaced my fuel pump & a connector. I'll post part #'s when I get the paper work. |
Sirvait
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 06:37 am: |
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OK, here we go.
The fuel pump was replaced along with a couple of connectors.
P0130.5AA - Fuel Pump Assembly
74104-98BK - Housing 4way pin
74144-98 - 1 Pin Lock 4way
74190-98 - Pin Terminal
Was told by my service dept. that these are the 2010 parts. ????
If you can get this done under warranty, by all means try, this would have been a $600 repair. Hope this helps anyone looking to replace the pump. |
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