| Author | Message | ||
     Houwtama |
My Uly's starter motor is acting up. Any advice on removing the motor much appreciated! Removing the bolts in the clutch cover seems no problem. However, getting to the motor from the other side seems a bit daunting. Any success stories? | ||
| Nvr2old |
I replaced my Uly's starter motor gasket this past winter, I would describe it as tedious, but definitely not daunting. Just follow the service manual, and torque fasteners to specs. No longer leaking, so I guess it's a success story. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Are you certain it's the starter motor? If it hesitates during cranking, make sure you check all your electrical grounds. It's a good idea to remove and wire-brush the screws for the ground cables, file the surface of the screw boss on the subframe to remove the paint, and reinstall the grounding lug with a "star" type locking washer and no Locktite on the bolt threads. Many apparent starting problems have been cured by doing this. | ||
| Metaldude |
+1 on the grounds. Especially the main ground. I had "crank hesitation" until I swapped the ground location to a sanded and polished spot on the frame. | ||
| Houwtama |
Thanks y'all for the input. I've taken the bike to the local dealer and they have checked all the electrics, but say the motor needs replacing. I reckon if I can get the motor out, I can get a local auto electrician to refurbish it. Will keep you posted. | ||
| Rays |
What are the symptoms you are seeing? I was convinced my '06 had a bad starter motor - the starter would operate in 'machine gun' mode (similar to a low battery) intermittently. This got progressively worse and I eventually tracked it down to a resistive neutral switch. | ||
| Road_kill |
I took my starter out a couple of weeks ago to replace the leaking gasket. +1 on being a bit tedious - not hard. I suggest disconnecting the starter cable, vehicle speed sensor, oils pressure sensor, etc. and tie the wire harness out of the way as much as possible. You might try to stuff the disconnected starter cable up above - between the rear cylinder-frame area. You need to clear a path to get the starter out and there is plenty stuff in the way. I cut the transmission vent line since it was toasted by the header anyway. This made it much easier to wiggle the starter out of its den. It was at this point I noticed a good bit of oil had been weeping from the rear rocker box. So, I now have the engine rotated down and preparing to change many gaskets. I am sure the starter will be much easier to install with the engine rotated. | ||
| Houwtama |
Thanks for all the advice! My starter motor works perfectly at times. Other times it seems to spin without actually rotating the engine. Perhaps the securing of the gear on the shaft. Not sure what secures the gear to the shaft. | ||
| Houwtama |
Mmm.... tried taking the starter motor out on the weekend. Gave up eventually. Got the clutch case off ok and removed the front securing bolt and loosened the rear bolt (of the starter motor). However, the power cable to the motor is obstructed by a sensor of some sort. Must this be removed? Tried removing the cable to this sensor. Is there some trick to this? Also, the light cable attached to the bottom of the starter needs to be removed (probably the relay). Any tricks here? As you may have noticed, I am a novice at this. However, I'm loath to buy a brand new starter motor when I can have this one refurbished. Any help much appreciated. | ||
| Nvr2old |
I hope you disconnected the battery totally! Not sure which "light cable" you're referring to. I disconnected the 2 oil lines at the pump, and then it's just a matter of removing the positive and solenoid cables and moving the vent hose and cables out of the way as best you can. Be careful around the "sensor" you mentioned, that is actually the speedometer sensor according to the manual. To remove the solenoid cable, I believe I cut a cheap 13mm box end wrench to a length of 4.5 inches. I'm sure there's a better way, this is just what I did.  | ||
| Houwtama |
Many thanks Nvr2old! The pic is very helpful. Yes, I have disconnected the earth on the battery. I see you removed the speedometer connection. Does that just pull off? And the green cable - is that a little latch I see on the underside? Guess that has to be lifted to release the plug? Going to enter the fray again soon.... Many thanks again! | ||
| Nvr2old |
This picture shows the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) connector. And just a little pressure on the latch and the small plastic connector on the end of the green wire will pull free.  (Message edited by nvr2old on June 13, 2011) | ||
| Houwtama |
Thanks Nvr2old for all the help. Got the motor out and took it to the local auto electrician. He is replacing the bendix. Apparently it is a standard car bendix!!! Was quoted ±$650.00 from Harley, but now am getting the job done for ±$80. Thanks again... | ||
| Garrcano |
Please if possible, post the brand/model of the bendix for the future. Many Thanks | ||
| Houwtama |
Hi Garrcano. The make is ZEN (brazilian company) and the part # is DRV611. The only catch is that the oil seal from the original needs to be fitted to the ZEN part. | ||
| Garrcano |
Thank You |
