| Author | Message | ||
     Anonymous |
Hey guys, About to do a fork oil and seal change on my Uly, but since this is my first time ever doing such a thing, I was wondering what I need. I got all my replacement parts and oil in hand (10wt, seals, bushings, o-rings) but I'm wondering what tools I need. It looks like I'm in need of a fork spring compressor and a fork oil level tool. Are these necessary, and any suggestions on which ones to grab? Any tips or hints out there on the procedure. Got quoted about 300 from my shop to do it, with the forks removed, and realized it would be way cheaper to buy the tools, do it myself, and learn how to do it in the future. Thanks in advance for the info! | ||
| Froggy |
I'll have to dig it up the guide, you don't need to buy any fancy tools. You can cheat and use ratchet straps as a compressor. The oil level tool is cheap from American Sport Bike, probably worth picking it up. Also, I assume you accidentally hit the Anonymous button, so nobody can click on your profile and see that you have an 06 Uly. While you are doing the fork oil, you might want to swap out the springs and use the progressive springs from a 07 Uly, they are nicer and help reduce fork dive when you are braking. | ||
| Tootal |
Here's a thread I did when changing my triple trees. I also changed fork springs and show some simple tools I made to do it. I took them apart in the trees and then removed them to drain them. Hope this helps: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/442538.html?1236474150 | ||
| Panhead_dan |
The oil level tool can be a piece of cardboard shaped like a "T" with a mark on it for the proper level. The seal driver can be a buncha electrical tape layered up to about 3/16" or a little more, applied to the fork tube. Just push. The fork clamp can be your tripple trees. The spring compressor can be a ratchet strap or with a little practice, just pull it down by hand. You only need to compress the spring enough to slip the wrench in there. | ||
| Scooter808484 |
If you are unlucky, like me, then you'll need an impact wrench to remove the fork cap. This likely only applies if you have previously let a dealer work on the bike. Traxxion Dynamics has a spring compressor for $30 or so. Takes a third hand for a second or two though. The oil level tool is useful for any suspension fork so if you ride mt. bikes, get one. (Message edited by scooter808484 on May 12, 2011) | ||
| Jconly |
Thanks guys.. Froggy any luck with that guide? Tootal your thread was very helpful, although I think I still need some instruction and explanation with a few things. I think I really need to just take the fork apart to get a better understanding. The service manual really doesn't explain a damn thing when it comes to changing oil or seals. Oh, and are 07 springs really that cheap? Like $25 for a set??! By the way, Tootal, did you put your 06 forks, with 07 springs, into an 08 tree? Aren't the 08 forks wider in diameter? | ||
| Zac4mac |
I just did the forks on my 09. I have a fork tube clamp. I made a level tool from a 30cc syringe and a piece of brass tubing with an o-ring to set the height. I made a damper rod from a piece of brass tubing soldered to a 1/8 NPT(pipe thread) female union. I cut down the hooks on a ratchet strap so they go in the holes easier for a spring compressor. Didn't do seals, still need to make a seal-driver... One of the caps was so tight it wouldn't budge with an impact driver and 2 lb hammer. I flipped it upside down, torched the cap and tube to 150-160 degrees, put a box-wrench on the cap and leaned into it, applying a hand-full of ice-cubes. Then I tapped on the tube with a small nylon hammer before it FINALLY let go. A new cap was ~20 bucks... Zack | ||
| Uly_man |
It is up to what people wish to do but I would take the loose forks to a good suspension guy myself. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Just thought of something - When re-assembling, make sure and preset the center screw in the cap 3-1/2 turns so you have adjustment later. when I got my Uly, one side had the full 3-1/2 turns, the other only 1/2 turn.... Z | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I just did mine the other day. Buy a 1.25 6 point deep well socket for about 9 bucks (Advanced Auto store) and use it in conjunction with a long levered socket wrench. I used my craftsman torque wrench which has a long lever arm. You'll not want the bike up in the air when you break free the fork cap(s) because you don't want the bike falling over. So it is easier and safer to leave the fork tube in place on the bike and just remove the handlebar to make room for the socket on the fork cap. I just laid a small blanket over the airbox cover to keep the handlebars from scratching it. Make sure the socket is well seated and have a hand on the socket end of the wrench to hold it down and squared while you wrench and break the cap(s) free with your other hand. Both my caps broke free easily with this method. Service manual shows to remove the snap ring and the preload adjuster before removing the fork cap. Don't even attempt this job without a service manual nearby. I used it extensively while I did my forks. One other thing, when you get those fork caps broke free don't unscrew them completely just yet, now is the time to lift the front end of the bike off the ground. Remember the forks are under bike-weight-compression until the front end is off the ground with the bike in the air on a stand. Remove the front wheel. Then you can unscrew the cap(s) completely and then just push up on the bottom of the fork (after front wheel is removed ) to pop that cap up and out of the fork. Follow service manual instructions to undo the rest of that upper fork's guts. You DO NOT need to remove the dampening rod in this process. It should stay in place throughout. It is attached at the bottom with a socket head cap screw. I removed mine unnecessarily but learned a little more in the process. Leave it alone. Pull out the fork guts but leave the fork spring in until you remove the fork tube from the triple clamps. Now remove the fork tube that you want to replace the seal on. Dump the spring and oil into the oil pan. Help out by grabbing hold of the Damper Rod Assembly and pumping to release oil.(see Figure 2-72 Front Fork Assemble breakdown drawing in Service Manual) Use a screw driver to pry out the dust seal that is near the blown seal. Use that same screw drive to pry out the wavy snap ring that holds in the seal. Spread it open to get it off the tube and out of the way. Remove the seal by holding firmly onto the upper fork tube of the fork and pulling down hard a few times on the lower axle-hole part of the fork. That is what it takes to drive out the blown seal. Be persistent, it will feel like something is holding it in. That is just the seal holding on for dear life. A couple of sharp pull/slams will get it moving. When you get to the part where you are seating the new seal you might want to make a seal driver like I came up with http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/631411.html?1305252910 Just reassemble in reverse order and read that service manual. And remember the refilling of the oil and proper level. Best way to measure that oil level is to cut a 1' by 3/8" piece of brown cardboard off a box and put a 90 degree bend 1/2' from one end. Measure the distance recommended by the Service Manual (4.45" for 06' year ULY) and that should be the distance from the 90 degree bend to the pencil mark you'll draw on the cardboard strip. Insert the cardboard strip into the top of the fork into the oil until the 90 degree bend rests on top of the fork tube edge. Oil shows up real clearly on the brown board. I measured with the fork back in the triple trees. The oil level is at a slant but if at the right level it will be centered have below and half above the pencil line. Think about it. Good luck. First time through it will take awhile until you fully understand what you are dealing with. Hope I've helped and not confused. This just fills in gaps the service manual doesn't go into. You do not have to buy any service manual special tools tools to change the seals and oil. Make your own. Print out Tootal's instructions as they helped a lot. I used a ratchet strap and s-hook to compress forks when needed. All compression was done with forks held in triple clamps. Only things done with forks in hand was dumping oil and removing seal and reinstalling seal. I refilled oil with fork in triple clamp. (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on May 13, 2011) | ||
| Jconly |
Thanks guys, Have also found a couple threads that have been helpful: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/249047.html http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/153628.html?1178891937 Going to pick up a level tool for sure, they're cheap enough. Going to hold of on a compressor and seal driver for now though, and see how it goes. I also have a set of non-inverted forks from my dirtbike to do, as well as another set from my race bike that are in dire need. Whatever I get I want it to be universal, so I'm going to measure some fork diameters and take the caps off to see what I'm in store for. | ||
| Tootal |
By the way, Tootal, did you put your 06 forks, with 07 springs, into an 08 tree? Aren't the 08 forks wider in diameter? The bottom of the forks are bigger but not the top. They are the same on all model years. | ||
| Ratbuell |
And yes, the 07 fork springs are that cheap. And yes, they DO make that much of a difference  | ||
| Scooter808484 |
When re-assembling, make sure and preset the center screw in the cap 3-1/2 turns so you have adjustment later. when I got my Uly, one side had the full 3-1/2 turns, the other only 1/2 turn.... +1 The HD dealer that I stupidly let touch my forks, messed that up as well. Even though there's absolutely no reason to mess with that locknut when changing oil. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I reset both damper rod assemblies just as outlined in the service manual. The instructions are very easy to follow and step by step. It is only a very short 7 step procedure that no one here should should fret about. Sure you don't have to take that Rebound and Fork Cap Assembly off if all you are doing is changing the oil but if the seal is being changed, like I had to do, then you'll be removing those top bits. No worries at all. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Anyone thinking that tackling a fork oil or fork seal change is too daunting is just psyching themselves out unnecessarily. Once you've done it you'll be glad you didn't spend hundreds of dollars letting a dealer wrench on your bike. Remember, they really don't care about your ride, only your money. The more you know about the mechanics of your ULY, the safer you'll feel taking long trips on it. | ||
| Camronnie |
Wish I would have found this thread before I attempted to remove my fork cap... I just had a leaking fork, and sent the forks to a dealer to redo. Got them back 2 days before a trip, and realized I could only turn my rebound setting on my left fork 1.5 rotations, and figured I would address this myself after the trip. Well, just attempted to take the left fork cap off, without an impact, put on a 1.25" socket and it felt like it was on there solid, and of course the socket skipped, and distorted the ID of the cap... Does anyone know a part number of the cap, or where to buy one? I'm unable to find one. |
