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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through April 30, 2011 » Rear, preload adjuster assembly rebuild (06) « Previous Next »

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Whitj
Posted on Saturday, April 09, 2011 - 02:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Has anyone rebuilt their rear shock, preload adjuster assembly? I assume it is filled with oil? The HD manual does not specify how or when to rebuild. I know it is time for mine to have a rebuild. When new, I use to have the unit set at 8 "clicks". Now it takes 12 clicks to get the same resistance. Any ideas or stories of a rebuild?

25k on the clock.

Thanks
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Garrcano
Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 03:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe it helps:

http://www.seatrider.org/techntips/rear%20shock%20 preload.htm
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Hughlysses
Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 07:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That sounds like a very good fix. IIRC, some time back someone here inadvertently disconnected their adjuster hose and spilled some of the oil. I believe they were going to attempt the same repair. Never heard if it worked or not.
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Torontobuell
Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 08:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey,

My preload has the same symptom. I found oil on the base of the shock a few times. I thought it was the vent tube leaking down on it. I noticed the more clicks on preload after.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you Garrcano.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 09:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Another thought- if you find your pre-load adjuster has a small leak at the piston end or the adjuster end, you could add a small amount of "stop leak" to the oil before you refill. I'm not talking about radiator stop leak, but the stuff they make for engine oil systems and transmissions. It has a chemical in it which will cause the seals to swell.

I nursed a leaking hydraulic clutch on my last truck for ~20,000 miles this way because you had to drop the transmission to change the leaking slave cylinder. Finally the pilot bearing failed and I had to drop the tranny anyway.
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Torontobuell
Posted on Sunday, April 10, 2011 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi,

here is a link with a fix including pictures.

http://members.cox.net/slartidbartfast/bmwfix/shoc k-oil/shock-oil.htm
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Whitj
Posted on Monday, April 11, 2011 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All great advice. Thanks Team.

I think i may try the "stop leak" method. I have not found any oil leaks but it must have went somewhere.

I do have the faster, black 06 model. Perhaps all the oil was blown off in high speed corners past my friends riding rice.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Monday, April 11, 2011 - 05:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

John- I think the trick for the stop leak is mix it with the oil you use to re-fill your adjuster in similar proportions to what it recommends for adding to a car oil system. I'm sure you can go somewhat stronger than that, since you're only adding oil rather than replacing all of it. OTOH you don't want to go overboard as it in too high of a concentration it might cause the seals or hose to fail.
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Etennuly
Posted on Monday, April 11, 2011 - 08:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For 'where the oil went' I would guess that the oil in the rear shock wears out and gets contaminated just as the fork's oil does. This makes it seem like the level went down, but, rather, I think the oil looses it's viscosity which in affect is it's "spring", thus making the shock sag. By pouring in more oil you stiffen it back up just as a fork would by adding more oil.

It seems to me the fix would be to pump out all of the old oil and replace it as you would fork oil. That is a good quick fix though.
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Whitj
Posted on Tuesday, April 12, 2011 - 12:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just had a thought. Is it possible that the fluid used in the pre-loader is brake fluid?
The line is a brake line and the fitting, "BAJA bolt" with copper washer is clearly used for brake line and fluid. Any thoughts on using DOT 3, 4 or 5 as the fluid? Brake fluid is hydraulic oil after all.
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Uly_man
Posted on Tuesday, April 12, 2011 - 12:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

John. With the greatest of respect it is clear, given your comments, that you are not an engineer. As such, with respect, I would advise you to seek out a suspension guy to help you with your problem.
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Whitj
Posted on Tuesday, April 12, 2011 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Marc
With little due respect or need to explain background to you, my title, degree, numerous awards and most of all, my paycheck speak to the contrary with regards to your engineering comment. Might I remind you Marc from the UK, neither Buell nor Showa make available submittal documentation and or O&M manuals for the rear shock on this bike. Had this information been provided, I would not be seeking advice from an open forum, such as the BADWEB and a fine group of informative enthusiast’s such as myself. I never claimed to be a bike engineer, nor the end of all knowledge for all things shock and or Buell related. I only came with a simple question as a seeker of knowledge, such as most folks on the BADWEB. Ideas, whether good, bad or just plain ill-informed, are how problems are solved in the real world. Which would explain why the US has tea bagged the UK ever since the day the ships left port and burned the union jack, never looking back. The UK is now our world rent a cop and every Prime Minister since WWI has been our puppet ever since. Thank you. On a side note, I would love to have a go at Kate before little Willy gets his chance.

Marc
If you have something positive to add to the forum, by all means please do so others can learn and grow by your experience. If you came here to flame others that you do not know, might I suggest you turn your efforts elsewhere. The advice I give my mother in-law, who also happens to be a Lymie from London, if you have nothing nice to say, please don’t say anything.

http://www.hollyscoop.com/galleries/bootylicious-s tars-at-the-beach_295.aspx?TGImageID=585

God save the Kate, for me.

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Needs_o2
Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2011 - 09:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whitj

Hugh has a great memory, because I'm the one that had the self induced problem with the shock adjuster. I could go into a long description of what I attempted several times and eventually failed, but I would rather say, there's nothing in the manuals because it's not intended to be a serviceable part, unlike systems on other bikes. But, if you really want to attempt something, keep in mind it's a hydraulic system under pressure until you remove the spring load! If you lose fluid, that's when the fun starts, because as far as I could find there is no fill point on the system. I ended up sheering the O-ring in the system, making it useless. I removed it from the bike and made shims for the top of the spring that equal the distance or a little more of the hydraulic system at full preload, approx. 1/2". Since I'm almost always with my wife on the Uly, that setting works fine all the time. As far as Uly man goes, don't sweat it, he probably is an engineer and feels threatened because he doesn't have the answer and that no simpleton like us could figure it out. By the way, we were all engineers of sorts before there were "engineering degrees". The lack of a piece of paper doesn't make someone incapable of problem solving!

Per Erik Buell Racing, the fluid in the fork 5w fork oil.
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Whitj
Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2011 - 08:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

O2
Thanks for following up. That is what makes this forum strong and reliable. Sorry all about my rant the other day but…. I had a very hard day at work and saw that message and had to drop everything to unload on someone. I deal with a great deal of S*!T as a PM. Just bad timing. Sorry.

Last night, I followed the advice found here http://members.cox.net/slartidbartfast/bmwfix/shoc k-oil/shock-oil.htm
Outstanding pictures and an easy fix.

BTW, I used Belray DOT-4 fluid. No leaks, no problem. It now works better than the day I picked the bike up from the dealer. It took 20 minutes. I’ll report back if anything further happens but all looks good after 60 mile commute today.
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Needs_o2
Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2011 - 09:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whitj,

I'm glad that worked for you. When I tried doing nearly that exact procedure, I could only get very little preload. I think my biggest battle was that I had let air into the system and couldn't get it to bleed out of the cylinder.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2011 - 10:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whitj- glad it worked out. Another very valuable piece of info to file away, especially for the time when replacement parts are no longer available or at least hard to come by.
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Uly_man
Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2011 - 01:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whitj I am very sorry for any comments I have made that may have upset you. My aim was to guide you to a safe solution of your problem. I have seen many people hurt, through problems with bikes, and would not wish this on anyone.

With this in mind I thought, as stated, that I posted to you with respect. You seem to think otherwise and thats ok.

I am sorry to hear that we, or me, in the UK are not worthy of your respect. Thats ok as well.
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Hermit
Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2011 - 01:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whitj

Keep an eye on the seals.

I do not know what type of fluid is used in the preload adjuster but the seals normally used for a mineral oil based hydraulic fluid are not compatible with brake fluid.
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Torontobuell
Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 07:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi,

So after refilling the preload adjuster with oil I sill have the problem after a few rides. (8 clicks till I feel the preload start to work) . The folks at the race tech shop near Toronto say it sounds like air is in the preload system, maybe no leak of fluid at all. I will take it to them to be serviced. $100.00 without parts.
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