| Author | Message | ||
     Carvbuell |
So while putting together my 2010 XT rear wheel, I accidentally put my rotor side bearing in with the etched numbers in. The instructions say to install with numbers out. Do I need to get a removal tool and take it out or should it be ok? I have been reading every bearing thread I could find and no answer. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I don't think it makes any difference- they probably say that so that the bearing number can be read off of the bearing race. The bearings are completely symmetrical and it doesn't make which way they rotate. If you do remove the bearing, throw it away and buy another one. Because of the way the tool works, removing the bearing WILL damage it and it can't be reused. | ||
| Tootal |
What Hugh said. It is customary to put the bearing numbers on the outside. It's not necessary. | ||
| Motorbike |
What type of tool are you guys using for wheel bearing removal? From what I have read, the H-D specialty tools cannot be bought from dealers and even if they could, I could never afford it. Thanks. | ||
| Tootal |
Well to install the bearings I made a nice installer with bronze bearing holders and all thread. To take them out I use a hammer and a long punch! If you pry the center spacer over a little you can see the inner race of the opposite bearing. One good tap on it and the spacer is free. I then move around in a four point up, down, left, right pattern until it pops out. Don't try and take it out with one hit, just gently keep moving around. | ||
| Ourdee |
If I have to do it, I'll do it Tootal's way with the addition of a heat gun on the rim. | ||
| Motorbike |
Thanks Tootal. I was not sure if the spacer would actually slide out of the way far enough to get a punch on the inner race. Ourdee, I believe that heat gun is a good idea too. Couldn't hurt. Seems kind of funny that I'm asking these questions as I have never had a motorcycle bearing failure but I always like to be prepared. ( Actually, I am always looking for a good excuse to buy more tools! ) | ||
| Tootal |
Obviously they make blind hole pullers that you slip in and then screw in the shaft to expand the far end of the puller. This grips on the back side of the inner race. It has a large weight that slides down the shaft until it hits the end and basically hammers the bearing out. Since this isn't a blind hole why use the tool? I have made the same tool with a threaded rod and then use a pipe that fits over the outside diameter of the bearing with a cap welded on. This allows you to pull it out by tightening a nut. If I had a bearing that was special or I didn't have time to get another one and I did something stupid like forgetting to put the spacer in...  | ||
| Motorbike |
Tootal, do you happen to have any pics of these tools that you built? I would much rather pull the bearing out as opposed to pounding it out with a punch and hammer. Seems it would be less likely to damage the bore of the wheel by pulling it straight out. Thanks. | ||
| Uly_man |
Motorbike. The problem with trying to pull the bearings out is that there is almost nothing for a tool to grip/latch onto. Its one of those HD "NOT VERY WELL THOUGHT OUT" things in my opinion. It makes for a job thats much harder than it ever needed to be. I used one of these tools to extract my wheel bearings.  It may look cheap and weedy but it is a proper tool fit, up to 54mm I think, for the job but its only for home use. I really did abuse this thing and it was fine. Cost about £25 in the UK on E-Bay. With this tool I just about managed to extract the front bearings ok but the rear ones were another matter. In the end I used a Dremel (round grinding tip) tool to grind three slots in the spacer so that the tool could grip under the bearing. Once the hub/bearing corrosion was broken it pulled the bearing out easy. The first time around does take a little effort. I would say, if your going to use this tool, replace the spacers but cut three grooves into one end for future removal and use Copper-Slip on the bearing/hub to stop the bearing sticking. There is no reason for this to be a problem. Be aware though that this sort of work does need some working ability so if your not sure of what you are doing then get someone who does to do it. On the other hand "the more you learn the more you know" and it will save you money as well. | ||
| Swampy |
I tried one of the three jaw pullers like Ulyman, but the jaws just bent in and slipped past the edge of the bearing as the bearings were in there were just tight tight! I ended using a blind hole bearing remover that expanded a sleeve all the way around the bearing surface. I posted pictures the last time this topic came up. | ||
| Uly_man |
Swampy. Yes you are quite right it can/will do this because it has little to grip onto the bearing and the binding in the hub holds it back. This is why it is hard to do the first time around. The idea of making grooves in the spacer for the next bearing change kills any problems. This tool is less than 25%, of many others, but does require a bit of "how to get around things" engineering use. | ||
| Motorbike |
Uly man, thanks for posting the picture. I have been turning wrenches since I was a little kid. I feel comfortable doing any job that I have the proper tools to do so. On the rare occasion that I don't have the right tools, I have been forced to hire out the job. It seems like I always come back disappointed because some so-called "professional" got the job done but in the meantime, scratched everything up or damaged something else. And then I have to pay them for this. That's why I like to do as much as possible myself. That way if it gets screwed up or does not work, I can only blame myself. With that said, I don't mind paying a reasonable amount to buy a new tool when I need it, but over $300 for the H-D bearing remove/install tool kit is ridiculous! Besides the fact that they won't sell it to me anyway. I hope I have not offended anyone out there who is a real, true professional mechanic. I know they are out there. I just haven't found them yet. I like your idea of grinding 3 notches in the spacer to get the puller in place but I don't think I would install new bearings and re-use that spacer. Seems like it would be a little weak on that end. |
