| Author | Message | ||
     Buellerxt |
I keep reading that the two 'most probable' causes for rear wheel bearing failures are: 1. Folks over tightening the axle. That happens on the rear but not the front? 2. Water infiltration due to poor sealing. Why doesn't that happen on the front? I've read of one or two front bearing failures but the number seems to be minuscule compared to the rear. Just curious.  (Message edited by buellerxt on March 08, 2011) | ||
| Tootal |
One reason some folks drill drain holes in the rear wheel is just for that reason. Look at your front wheel and you can see it's wide open. You can see your spacer through the large open hub. In the rear is not open and can trap water. Many with bad bearings have said there was water in the rear hub when they took it apart. On the other hand that has not been the case on all failures. The front bearings are not subject to the torque of the drive belt either so that's why they are smaller than the rears. I think drilling the rear hub at two places 180 degrees apart at the largest part of the hub couldn't hurt. I mean, even condensate from changing temperatures can't escape a stock wheel. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Thanks Tootal. I figured the much larger load on the rear wheel, and the belt drive torque played parts but I didn't realize that the front hub facilitated water exit. Cool. I'll look at that. My Uly, which I've loved from day 1, has been fortified with the 2010 wheel and 2011 front rotor hardware and is ready for ANYTHING! | ||
| Tootal |
I did the same thing. 010 wheel and the Erik Buell Racing 6mm rotor with hardware. Brakes finally work right! | ||
| Cobradave93 |
Like you said, I didn't hear of many problems with the front. Then I went to change the rear bearings during a tire change only to find the fronts were as bad as the rears! Now all the orange seals are gone and have blacks seals on all. Hopefully they will last longer than the originals (11000 miles). | ||
| Mad_doctor |
I tend to think, the front wheel is not on the ground as much as the rear wheel. (Thank you Mr. Buell). what a GREAT motorcycle. | ||
| Tankhead |
Have there been any documented cases of failure after the drill mod? Also any cases of 2010 wheel failure? Just askin. | ||
| Tootal |
Road Kill said he had a 2010 wheel failure. He's the only one I've heard of. | ||
| Uly_man |
Well put it this way. You can drill through your rear hub/bearings to dump water but A) the seals should keep the water out, B) it could also dump the bearing grease as well and C) you could cause a fracture of the wheel/bearing itself. People can do as they wish but this idea makes no engineering sense at all. | ||
| Andymnelson |
Personally, I think it has more to do with the tightening of the axle and pinch bolt than anything else... Either way, my wheels are off yearly for a tire change, and I inspect bearings then. I've got 20k on the lightning original recall bearings, and about the same on the Uly and they are both great. I see absolutely no good reason for me to start drilling holes in perfectly good rims. | ||
| Uly_man |
Sounds about right to me but thats just my opinion. But just think on this? The XB range is not all that different to most modern bikes but they do have there own oddball things and this is something people need to understand. One is if you do not run it in right you will have engine problems and the other, because of the bike design, is the need for sound bearings. I have run, and a XB is, sports bikes for many years and 3k on rubber, 10k on wheel bearings and 2k on front pads is close to the norm but it also depends on how you ride. | ||
| Road_kill |
I trashed the rotor side bearing on my '10 wheel ... spacer was crushed slightly most probably due to over-tightening the axle. Hard for me to figure 'cause the torque wrench is calibrated and I have changed wheels so many times before (successfully) ... anyway, no fighting the evidence. I had the broken parts replaced and moved on. BTW, the dealer replaced the wheel FOC after they destroyed it getting the old bearings out. After a few short rides around the neighborhood (300 miles), I'm starting a 3-day, 1500 mile shakedown trip this Friday. I hope the rear wheel bearing gremlins are gone this time. The '10 wheel setup is overkill and I'm sold on it despite my recent problems. As for the front wheel bearings, at 30k miles mine are silky smooth and show no sign of trouble. That said, when I return from my trip, I think I'll replace them ... just in case ... Anybody have recommendations on bearing removal/installer tools? The harley/buell/JIMS tool has a special bridge specifically for the Buell wheels and I cannot find anyone who will sell me one. In the past, I made my own tool but I'm a bit nervous with these fancy, lightweight sport bike rims. Heck, if I can't even tighten the axle without crushing the spacer ... | ||
| Tootal |
Well put it this way. You can drill through your rear hub/bearings to dump water but A) the seals should keep the water out, B) it could also dump the bearing grease as well and C) you could cause a fracture of the wheel/bearing itself. People can do as they wish but this idea makes no engineering sense at all. Well, A)The problem is the water starts corroding the steel and the corrosion/rust starts cutting at the seal until it leaks and then the water gets to the bearing. B)With a sealed bearing there won't be any grease inside the hub unless your name is Vern! C)Drilling a round hole will not cause a fracture. Fractures happen at sharp corners and defects. If you have a crack the first thing you do to stop it is drill a hole at the end of it to relieve the stress. IMO it makes perfect engineering sense. | ||
| Etennuly |
IMO it makes perfect engineering sense. I am totally in agreement here. If it were engineered so perfectly that it could not stand some adjustment, it surely would not have been full of water. I still believe it is more a condensation accumulation than normal water intrusion. My finding comes from the heat the rear hub carries under load. If you get off from the bike on a hot day feel it, be careful though it can be quite warm. Then on that ninety degree day ride into a cold rain for a couple of hours where it cools completely. If condensation is not the cause it is missing a good chance. But then water intrusion is a possibility also. The axle can convey water through the bearing into the center cavity. But I had kept mine sealed early on with anti-sieze coating on the outside of the seals, so......  FACT, water cannot get into a hub that is filled and maintained with grease. | ||
| Etennuly |
Oh, and regardless of what tool you use for changing the bearings, I highly recommend heating the wheel evenly with a heat gun, until it is hot enough that you cannot touch it while forcing the bearing out of it's machined fit. The bearing's race is hardened steel in a soft machined aluminum hub. The part you are discarding is the hardened part, what you need to keep is the soft part. The friction fit will not last through many refits without a little help. Heating the hub and cooling the bearing makes for a really easier, lowered friction installation. | ||
| Riding_tall |
+1 the heating the wheel, cooling the bearing. It worked wonders for me .. the new bearings almost dropped into place. | ||
| Tootal |
I just look at the front wheel. The hub is WIDE open and there have been very few front bearing failures. I agree with Vern, it's condensation that causes the problem. Drilling the holes gets rid of that. I don't think that's the only reason for failure though. Crushed spacers or short spacers will cause problems too. Electroglider always mentions anti-sieze on the outside but putting it on the inside and drilling drain holes should go a long way in keeping your bearings healthy. Grease on these surfaces will work also is you don't have anti-sieze. But then again if you not using anti-sieze then you NEED TO BUY SOME!  | ||
| 2008xb12scg |
how do you know if you have a bad bearing? By putting it on a stand and spinning the wheel? | ||
| Tootal |
On the front wheel you could do that but with the belt on the rear you might not be able to tell. Whenever I change tires I just put my fingers in the inside of the bearing and twist. It should be smooth. Any notchyness or extreme pressure needed to turn it will be a clue. |
