| Author | Message | ||
     Buellerxt |
I found what I was looking for after posting this! Blake posted the following in Sept., 2009! Thanks, Man. New (2010) Buell XBike Rear Wheel/Bearing Kit Installation Instructions http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/bulletins/2010RearWheel.pdf (Message edited by buellerxt on November 20, 2010) (Message edited by buellerxt on November 20, 2010) | ||
| Tootal |
PM sent. Couldn't get the file small enough to post on here. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Thanks, Tootal. I've responded to your PM. I should have given credit/thanks to Court in my post above. He was the one who evidently posted it first. Thanks to you both. | ||
| Tootal |
I kept trying to scan and save a pdf file for you but it was just too big to post. The link you have has the same info I was trying to post. | ||
| Glenn |
Hi, Does anyone have any homemade tool suggestions for installing the bearings in the 2010 wheel, big washers or?? Thanks | ||
| Hughlysses |
I bought a cheap bearing installation tool at Harbor Freight for ~$10 that included various sized disks that would fit in the bearings. Unfortunately they apparently don't make that set any longer. I'd recommend using fender washers that are big enough to cover BOTH the inner and outer races of the bearings. Use a piece of all-thread and nuts to pull the bearings into place. Pre-chill the bearings in the freezer and pre-warm the wheel with a hair dryer or heat gun (carefully!). DON'T hammer the bearings into position. Here's what Al Lighton's said about the importance of installing wheel bearings correctly (this was referring to the older 2-bearing wheels, but is equally applicable to ALL wheel bearing installations): "The [factory] bearing installation tool is designed to push on BOTH the inner and outer races in a plane. During installation of the opposite rotor side bearing, if the installation forces are applied to EITHER, but not both, of the races, you can potentially damage that bearing. If you use the old "socket on the outer race with a hammer" method, you'll probably ruin that, and possibly both bearings. You'll likely coin the bearing races, and might damage the spacer, if you seat the outer race against the wheel shoulder on that side. And regardless of the potential bearing damage, if you walk that bearing in which is easy to do with the hammer method, your interference fit of the outer race into the wheel may be compromised. Buell doesn't utilize thermal methods (i.e., hot wheel, cold bearing) for installation, they rely on process control and proper tooling. " Al's final statement that Buell doesn't use thermal methods was more for info rather than a caution. I bought my 2010 wheel kit from him and he pre-installed the bearings & chilled them ahead of time, so I'm sure it's OK to do that. | ||
| Glenn |
Thanks Hugh for the tips. I wish I could buy the Harbor Freight installers but it looks like standard washers will work. I measured the bearings: OD = 62mm - 2.439" ID of outer race = 54mm - 2.132" ID of bearing = 30mm - 1.175" I checked out some washers dimensions and it looks like the closest one that will work is for a USS 7/8" washer. The 1" is a little too big unless ground down a bit: 7/8" Washer ID = 15/16" OD = 2-1/4" 1" Washer ID = 1-1/16" OD = 2-1/2" A foot long piece of 3/4" all thread should be enough along with a couple of 3/4" nuts. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Might be a good idea to double (or triple) up the washers; if they flex you'll apply more force to the inner race than the outer race. Good luck! | ||
| Glenn |
Yes, I was thinking 2, but 3 each end is probably smarter. Thanks again | ||
| Tootal |
Glenn, use some anti-sieze on the wheel to keep any gaulding from happening. Keep an eye on the bearing making sure it stays square in the bore. They will try to pull crooked a little due to unequal pressure. The anti-sieze will help with this. | ||
| Glenn |
Thanks Tootal |
