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Pontlee77
Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

is there any good post of some one who has installed the Hid step by step with a few pics?

I know some one who can do it but if seen his work, and I think it can be better done and cleaner. (specially herein Spain)

Thanks
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Towpro
Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 01:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't have pictures, but here is what I did.
My V V ME (I had to enter spaces in the name so it did not look like a W) HID lights have a harness that runs forward to the headlight. This harness has a rubber grommet in it.

On the back of the headlight there is a rubber cover that comes off to get to the blub.

I cut a hole (1" I think) direct center of this cover. run the HID harness through the hole, then installed the rubber grommet into this hole. Sealed everything up well.

Then inside the headlight assembly the HID harness just plugs into the stock light socket, then you put the bulb into the headlight hole.

I then mounted the ballast and ignites under the flyscreen

NOTE:

When you switch between High and Low the buell turns off one bulb and turns on the other. With HID's you have almost 0 light when you first turn one on. Switching between low to high and back will give you an instant where you are swear you are in total darkness.

So you will have to modify your bike so the low beam stays on. There are several ways from relays, switching wires to diodes. Searching here will turn up many of the ways to do this.

(Message edited by towpro on October 27, 2010)
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Pontlee77
Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 02:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks.
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Ronmold
Posted on Wednesday, October 27, 2010 - 05:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I should have taken more pics, but this is all I have:
http://s678.photobucket.com/albums/vv141/ronmold/U ly%20HID%20install/?albumview=slideshow

I took the power wires out of the HID bulb/grommet and spliced them direct to the factory harness (I don't like unnecessary connections and will never return to stock) so the only wires going to the new bulbs are the pair of high-voltage wires. I used the blue wire that is in the harness that goes to the LH controls as the power for low beam. This is the wire that supplies the H/L switch and comes from the lighting fuse and will allow both on to prevent darkness (and crashing) while switching. You have to cut a little harness tape away to get at it but not too bad of a job. Many here use the running lamp lead O/Wht to power non-switched L beam but I like having the lights on the lighting fuse.
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Thursday, October 28, 2010 - 10:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For those who have done a HID mo I have a question..

Many have done the mod to swap the accessory lamp hot wire with the low beam hot wire in order to keep the low beam on all the time.

Does that accessory lamp hot wire momentarily lose power during startup just like the low beam hot wire does? If not, I'd think it would be the perfect source to run the relay off of. It would stay on 100% of the time, even when using high beams or flashing, and it would keep the HID installed in the low beam side isolated from that extra on/off cycle during startup.
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Froggy
Posted on Thursday, October 28, 2010 - 10:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

Does that accessory lamp hot wire momentarily lose power during startup just like the low beam hot wire does?




On 03-07, yes it is always hot on key on. I would have to check an 08, they have many electrical changes, and it may not come on till the motor is running (or engine off with kill switch on with sufficient voltage) like the accessory outlets.
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Friday, October 29, 2010 - 12:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can do some testing of my own. Any idea what the minimum voltage level is before the ballast resets?

Correct me if my terminology is off.. I haven't done a whole lot of research on HID outside of badweb. Ill make sure and read through the instructions carefully when my kit comes in ; )
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Friday, October 29, 2010 - 01:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/233088.html
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Ronmold
Posted on Friday, October 29, 2010 - 10:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've done 4 HID installs with low-cost Ebay style HID kits, (DDM being the one I will use from now on, there's actually people there you can contact!) The momentary cycling or low voltage during crank has not affected any of them, they just don't seem to care. Put a lock-out relay, see my previous post, if you want to keep them off while starting or working on the bike.
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Mnrider
Posted on Friday, October 29, 2010 - 11:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The great thing about the 35W DDM HID's is the ballasts are smaller than a deck off cards.
Low beam to the O/W wire and high beam to the white wire and the low beam stays on.
Best farkle I've done.
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Towpro
Posted on Friday, October 29, 2010 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did see once when my battery has been run low, open starting the low beam would not be lite. After charging for a while, a restart would bring the headlight back on. So yes there is a point this could happen.

(Message edited by towpro on October 29, 2010)
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, October 29, 2010 - 01:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The first (premium) HID kit I got for the 9sx would not only turn itself off occasionally due to the voltage drop at the battery as a result of the starter, it sometimes would not turn back on until I "rebooted". This seemed like really bad thing, so I put in the delay relay.

On the Uly and the new DDM kit, I just ran it to the low beam wire (no relay at all). The light gives a light blink when I hit the starter, but comes back fine, with no sign of trauma. Very easy install, but if I hit the high beams, the HID goes off. Flash to pass will run both though.

I'm happy with it.
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Monday, November 01, 2010 - 08:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I want to install my kit with a time delay relay.. couple of questions just to make sure I'm thinking about this the right way. Since the dual headlight kit has two separate ballasts, I'll need two relays correct? I mean I know I could run just a single relay, but if I install the kit with two relays and one fails, I still have the other headlight on a functional circuit.

Also, the way these bikes are wired, I need a positive switch relay?

Here is the kit I ordered. (both ballasts are 55w)
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDM-35W-55W-Dual -Motorcycle-HID-Kit

Here are the relays I'm looking at. (TDR-PS)
http://www.wolstentech.com/products/timedelayrelay /tdr-s.php
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Towpro
Posted on Monday, November 01, 2010 - 09:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I thought the stock headlight circuit was part of the "load shed" relay and the headlights were off during crank (not so for the city light wire some switch to use for the low beam).

This is why I used a 10a diode between the high and low circuit so when High beam comes on the diode conducts and will continue to power the low beam. There is overlap in the switch between high and low, so low never turns off. Others have done the same thing with relays.

the best design I saw (sorry forgot your name) was the one that used relays so if you turned the key on when high beam was on
you had no lights (great for working on bike without headlights on), then once you cycled to low the first time the relay would latch and stay on.
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Monday, November 01, 2010 - 09:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The headlights are "load shed". That's why I want a TDR before installing HIDs. Igniting the lights once when ignition is turned on, then removing power momentarily while the starter is engaged, followed by a "hot ignition" when the starter is disengaged would put a lot of unnecessary strain on the ballasts during every engine start. The TDR would provide up to 60 seconds for the rider to start the engine without applying power to ignite the HIDs.
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Andymnelson
Posted on Monday, November 01, 2010 - 11:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Phillip-

I ran a fat power wire to the front, split that to 2 relays: 1 TDR for the low beam, and 1 standard relay for the high beam. The TDR gets its trigger from the city light wire that is often used for an always on headlight, the high beam relay gets its trigger from the high beam wire.

This does a few things:
1) removes all load from factory wiring
2) gives a time delay (I used a 10 second relay) to start the bike before the lights fire. I need to have the high beam off in order to have it fire before start up....never been an issue for me.
3) keeps low beam on at all times

If you want to have the high beam rub off of the TDR as well, then take the output from the TDR and split it to the high beam relay power source and to the low beam ballast. The high beam would still be relayed separate, but not fire until the TDR triggers even if it's on. This, however, does not address your concern of a failed relay. My set up allows for a relay to fail and the other one would still function.

Hope my rambling helps!
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 09:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the explanation Andy. That cleared up a couple things I was unsure about.

Now just have to wait on the ballasts to arrive. 55w slims have been backordered for the past two weeks. The last email I got said they should ship today.
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Andymnelson
Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Glad it helped...usually when I try to take something that makes perfect sense in my head, and put it to writing....it turns to nonsense! : p
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