| Author | Message | ||
     Surfsofa |
I'm about to go on a long trip and have got myself a spare belt in case the worst should happen. I've assembled all the tools I need to do the belt swap if the worst should happen, bar one required for a single nut. The nut in question is the one which attaches the luggage rack to the right-side foot hanger. I can see no way to get access to and undo that nut with the tools I have. I can get a 3/8 socket onto the nut, but the ratchet for the socket will simply not fit between the socket and the swingarm. So, the question is, how on earth do I access and remove that nut? What is the magical tool (or technique) I'm missing? Thanks. | ||
| Maximum |
1. Use a box wrench 2. IIRC the swing arm is not in the way if you jack up the bike a little at the muffler...but maybe that is just with the X. 3. I would suggest replacing your belt before the trip and keep the used one as a spare. Must easier to fit a used belt on the side of the road. 4. Have a great trip...and don't hesitate to enlist the help of badwebbers if you have any problems...they are everywhere! | ||
| Hughlysses |
+1 to Maximum's suggestion. Going through the process of changing the belt will also show you exactly what's involved which will make the process go easier if you have to do it in less-favorable circumstances. It might be worth purchasing one of those ratcheting box end wrenches just for that one 3/8" bolt. | ||
| Surfsofa |
Thanks Maximum. Point 2 might be the answer here. I had the bike up on a rear paddock stand, so the suspension would have been compressed. Makes sense that access would differ if supported on the muffler. I don't have a suitable jack, so will have to locate one of those. I've heard that suggestion about changing to a new belt before a trip, but a couple of counter-arguments : 1) Surely the belt should not stretch, since tooth pitch on the sprockets is fixed? 2) Changing to another belt is changing to an unknown belt. Is age really the determinant of when a belt snaps? Mine's only done 8000 miles. | ||
| Ulykan |
Surfsofa--I recently changed my belt with about 8500 miles because it had a hole in it. While I'm no expert on all things mechanical if you have a new belt and you plan on taking a spare on the trip with you it just is a good idea to put on the new belt prior to leaving. This way you KNOW the condition of the belt and don't have that to worry about. Changing a belt at home, especially if you've never done it, can be very reassuring if you have to do it on the road. Just my 2 cents worth. As I said, I'm not a mechanic but a little preparation goes a long way toward peace of mind which is a great thing to have on a long trip. Enjoy the ride and keep us posted. Bob | ||
| Surfsofa |
I wanted to do exactly as you're describing for peace of mind as I had to take the rear wheel out for a tyre change anyway. I've established how to do the belt change and what tools are required. The only thing which stopped me in my tracks were lack of muffler jack and lack of tool to undo that one pesky nut.  | ||
| Tootal |
+3 on putting on the new belt now. The belt does stretch. My old belt had some play in it before I took it off. The new belt was a pain to get on! Now after 8000 miles it has also got a little play. Do yourself a big favor and put the new one on now. Some bikes seem to have red loctite on the threads of the allen screws that hold the removable frame on. These can be a pain to get out. Do it now and clean the threads and use blue loctite so they will be easier to get out in the future. If you ever have to do it on the side of the road, in the rain, you will appreciate having done it before. One more point. Folding up a used belt for storage is much easier than a new one. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I recently had a surprise flat rear tire and removed the wheel in someone's yard to save a little $$ on tire replacement labor fees. Anyway, my question is - wouldn't it take less time to remove the rear wheel during a roadside belt replacement instead of messing with the removable frame section? | ||
| Froggy |
You still need to take the swingarm brace off to install a new belt regardless, while removing the tire is not necessary. So by removing the wheel you would need more tools and a jack. | ||
| Hughlysses |
1) Surely the belt should not stretch, since tooth pitch on the sprockets is fixed? The belt definitely gets looser with mileage. I've seen it posted on here that the inner surface of the belt has a coating when it's new that gets burnished into the surface as it wears, supposedly increasing its durability. Maybe the thickness of this coating is reduced with mileage which results in the belt becoming looser. Anyway, my question is - wouldn't it take less time to remove the rear wheel during a roadside belt replacement instead of messing with the removable frame section? You have to remove the swingarm section either way. The belt is "captured" by the swingarm until that section is removed. The other point is you can leave the bike standing on both wheels and the kickstand while you change the belt. You might not have an easy way to support the bike with no rear wheel. | ||
| Hughlysses |
While we're on the subject of belt changing, has anyone with a 2010 Uly or 2010 Uly rear wheel done a belt change yet? The 2010 rear wheel has two bearings on the belt side. This means you'll have to unscrew the rear axle much farther to get it past the inner taper to remove the tension on the belt. I'm just wondering if there are enough threads in the axle to unscrew it this far before it completely unscrews. I suspect there are as I didn't have any trouble installing my new 2010 wheel and axle about a year ago. OTOH I'm pretty sure I'll have to back it out more than 25 turns to do a belt change. | ||
| Tootal |
Hugh, I just did a 2010 rear wheel and I still can't answer your question. I would just unscrew it till you physically see the pulley move in. I don't know if you have enough threads for 50 turns out. Good question! | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
"You still need to take the swingarm brace off to install a new belt regardless" Ah that's right, dunno what I was thinking.. But you don't have to use a jack to remove the wheel. Just drop that sucker on it's side. That's what frame pucks are there for | ||
| Etennuly |
All you need for a jack is a standard 8" cement block and a 3/4" thick board. Position the block at the rear of the muffler, pick up on the bike to unload the suspension a bit(if it is an "X"), push the block under the rear of the muffler with your foot while doing so. Then lean it up on the side stand, I stand on the left side of the bike and grab the rear seat frame lifting and pulling the rear into the air leaning it's weight on the sidestand, then kick the little board under the muffler on top of the block. It gives you a good cheap tripod that lifts the wheel just enough to get it off of the ground. It is definitely better to have help the first time you do this. But it is cheap, quick, and not much chance anyone will steal your jack!  | ||
| Maximum |
I changed the belt one time in the parking lot of my work and didn't even need to jack up the bike...just bounced the back end up against the side stand a little at a couple key times. Took me about an hour for the total job with only the tools I normally carry under the seat. | ||
| Ratbuell |
...or, if you have saddlebags, just lay the damned thing over on the left bag. Your bag will touch, your front tire will touch, and maybe your handlebar/handguard. Puts the belt pointed right at you, unloads the suspension and wheel, and makes it simple to pull off whatever you need to get out of your way to change the belt. I had mine over on its side last weekend plugging a rear tire that went out on the highway. I lucked out and found a parking lot with a curb-edge, and ground that sloped up from the curb. It probably only went over 45 or 50 degrees, and was pretty easy to pick back up after I got the tire plugged and reinflated. For a belt, you'd have to go the other way obviously...but the bike handled it no problem, with not a scratch on it.  | ||
| Griffmeister |
Yeah,I dropped my XT in an off-level parking lot last year with the wife on the back. Her leg held the saddlebag up high enough so it was easy to pick the bike back up. I don't know if she'd be willing to stay under the bike long enough for a belt or tire change though. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
A couple weeks ago I got a flat and laid the bike over in someone's front yard to remove the wheel. No saddlebags on it and I had plenty of clearance between the rear wheel and the ground to get everything removed. | ||
| Murf2 |
Do you have to remove the belt guard/fender? It looks like you would but I've never heard anyone mention it. Murf2 | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I remove all the plastic fenders and stuff from the swingarm just because it's quick and it makes working with the belt easier while trying to work it off the rear pulley. Never tried rear wheel removal without removing those parts first, so I don't know if it's absolutely necessary  | ||
| Etennuly |
Hey Rat, Didn't even spill your drink!  Nice one! | ||
| Ratbuell |
Well, y'know...if you drink *while* you're driving, you're not drunk till you get where you're going anyway...  |
